removable floor anchor

[rusted]

I am getting a tubing bender like this one ( http://www.pro-tools.com/105.htm ) that needs to be bolted to the cement floor. I work out of my garage that I park cars in, so I need to be able to bolt / unbolt the stand from the floor. Is there a slick way to do this easily?

My best idea so far is to drill holes into the cement large enough to hold a nut, then epoxy (or whatever is best) the nut into the floor. Then I can bolt the bender to the floor and remove it as needed. When it is not being used I can put short bolts into the floor to keep junk from falling inside. I will always have 4 bolt heads coming out of the floor which is kind of a pain. Is there a better way to do this?

 

[imported_banzaitoyota]

You can always cut a hole in the slab, do a small pour and have a Receiver hitch installed flush to the floor.

 

[rusted]

Not a bad idea. I will put some thought into that. I like the idea that it could sit flush with the cement, and I could use it for other "accessories" like a bench grinder, vice, or similar tools.

 

[89vert]

www.pipeproducts.com/ITW_Ramset.gif

This is a fairly easy anchor to install. You drill the correct size hole , making sure that you are also drilling to the correct depth with a carbide tipped drill bit in a hammer drill.
Install the anchor by using a setting tool or an appropriate sized piece of rod.
There are slots in the end of the anchor where a cone shape piece of metal is inserted. This expands when the setting tool is used and this creates a wedge shape that resists pull out. This is a very common anchor that is used extensively in the plumbing and mechanical contracting trades.

As these are not the strongest concrete anchor available ,
I'd suggest using 5/8" or 3/4 " size. These anchors are always sized by their thread size.

This will give you a female thread flush with your concrete floor , that will allow you to move your tools in and out at your convenience.

 

[astroracer]

I used 4 1/2" thread lead anchors...

When the tool post isn't installed I run the bolts in to keep the threads clean. I will have two or three "stations" where the post can be bolted down in different locations around the shop.
This thing is stout and didn't budge a fraction while I was doing a 180* bend on some 1 1/4 x .156 wall DOM.

Mark

 

[rusted]

I think that is what I am looking for. I have a die for 1.75" tube and will probably start with .120 wall, so it will be a pretty stout pull to bend that. Before I wanted it in the middle of the garage, but after seeing yours in the open I may mount it closer to the garage door so I can open the door and have more room to work with.

 

[rusted]

I just found this link

http://www.heckmannbuildingprods.com/PInsert.htm


Those are much stronger than I was expecting them to be. There will be 4 bolts holding the stand to the floor. Even with a medium size hole that should be pretty tough.

 

[rusted]

And additional info


http://www.mcmaster.com/

and search for "concrete anchors"

Looks like $20 or $25 worth of anchors will make it solid, and I should only have four bolt heads sticking out of the floor when it is put away.

 

[Brian]

To keep the holes clean and avoid having a bolt head sticking out you could use a peice of threaded rod with a slot cut in the end. Screw it in with a flat screwdriver so the top is flush with the concrete.

 

[89vert]

You could also just buy some socket set screws that are the correct size to protect the threads as well .

I'm not sure but was astroracer talking about a lead lag shield as the fastener he used ?

 

[astroracer]

Lead anchors for machine screws...
http://www.concretefasteners.com/anchors-fasteners/machine-screw/index.htm
I got mine at Ace for a couple of bucks apiece...
I used a piece of tubing to set them in the concrete.
Mark

 

[89vert]

In my humble opinion a drop in anchor would be considerably stronger,given that is made of carbon steel opposed to lead.

 

[KCHOTBOAT]

www.pipeproducts.com/ITW_Ramset.gif

This is a fairly easy anchor to install. You drill the correct size hole , making sure that you are also drilling to the correct depth with a carbide tipped drill bit in a hammer drill.
Install the anchor by using a setting tool or an appropriate sized piece of rod.
There are slots in the end of the anchor where a cone shape piece of metal is inserted. This expands when the setting tool is used and this creates a wedge shape that resists pull out. This is a very common anchor that is used extensively in the plumbing and mechanical contracting trades.

As these are not the strongest concrete anchor available ,
I'd suggest using 5/8" or 3/4 " size. These anchors are always sized by their thread size.

This will give you a female thread flush with your concrete floor , that will allow you to move your tools in and out at your convenience.

I used those years ago installing hanging heaving video projectors in the late 80's. Did about 100 of them and as far as I know they are all still hanging or replaced.

 

[89vert]

I think that in a static installation like the projectors mentioned , the lead anchors could be suitable. But for fastening tools or machinery that are going to vibrate and be leveraged against , the drop in would be a better choice.

If you want the best in strength , I would go with a cast in place anchor that is epoxied in place . The cast in- place anchor has a much larger bearing surface than a hex nut and will give you a substantially stronger installation.

 

[bobbyd]

I'm with 89 on the cast-in-place anchor, nothing stronger. However, in a retrofit application such as what most of us would have, drop in anchors would be quite sufficient. My Hilti technical guide says their 1/2" flush drop in anchor is good for 1785 lbs in tensions and 1940 lbs in shear. If you're using four, you could anchor a good sized truck.