Remove and reinstall aluminum window

[darkwoods]

I have a house that was built around 2001, and still has all of the original windows. The inside window sill started to swell from the condensation running down from the window, so I pulled it off intending to simply replace it.

I noticed that the framing under the window appears to be moldy, so I was thinking that I needed to remove the window, replace the 2x4, then reinstall the window.

I was reading another thread here, and now I am worried about whether I can remove the window without damaging it.

I only see one nail on the inside of the frame that looks like it's holding the window in (and lots of caulking inside and out). Maybe it's nailed in under the exterior trim? It's been raining a lot lately here in Texas, so I want to remove, fix and reinstall as quickly as possible in case it starts raining again. Any thoughts or advice?

 

[readhead]

There are nailing fins on the outside of the window. An outside picture would be helpful.

 

[darkwoods]

Here is an outside shot of the trim (Hardi). If it's an exterior flange nailed to the frame, maybe it will be as simple as removing the trim and window, repairing the framing, then putting it all back together? Any worries about damaging the aluminum frame?

 

[alwaysFlOoReD]

I hope your picture is upside down because if not, your window is. Most likely the trim was installed over the flange and the siding butts to the trim with caulking sealing the joint. I wouldn't bother trying to save the trim. Cut any caulking that connects trim to window and siding. Then pry trim away. Cut trim into smaller pieces with a oscillating saw or chisel as necessary.

Sent from my XT1032 using Tapatalk

 

[readhead]

Photo must be upside down. Pull of the trim. In my neck of the woods the window would have been installed behind the siding but it could be on the siding in this case. Sealing the window will depend on how it is installed.

 

[kwb]

I don't think that bottom sill is rotten - treat with bleach, prevent condensate from getting out of the window track, and move on.

When it is time to do the windows - do them all.

 

[rayra]

If the photo is NOT upside down, the trim is also wrong, not configured to properly shed water.

concur with pulling the trim to get to the nailer flashing of the window itself, to get it out. Treating the framing mold with bleach will suffice. Properly installing the window, flashing and trim and properly caulking thoughout will solve the moiture infiltration and thus the mold. You don't have to tear out the sill framing. Just kill it in place and encapsulate it.

 

[csp]

In my neck of the woods the window would have been installed behind the siding but it could be on the siding in this case.

The siding should only extend as far as the trim (**** up against the window trim), even in your neck of the woods.

 

[fury9]

The sill is going to be fine, what concerns me is the lack of sill tape. I use Dupont flexwrap. Main thing is to stop the water from coming in, replacing the sill will do you no good if you don't get to the root of the problem.

 

[readhead]

Maybe, maybe not. With sheet goods they may go over the fins then trim. Judging by the way the trim is upset I am guessing the window was installed over the sheet and then trimmed. We are all guessing anyway.

 

[James-W]

It may be a good idea to replace the window you have with one of better quality, but if you do that you will no doubt want to replace them all. Depending on how many windows you have in the house, it could get quite expensive, but depending on how energy efficient your present windows are and how energy efficient the new windows are, they may pay for themselves from the heating bill savings within a reasonable amount of time.

 

[readhead]

ROI on replacement windows is notoriously bad. Improved comfort is certainly a good goal and energy savings will be realized but payoff will be way down the road.

 

[James-W]

I think that kind of depends on the windows you are replacing. One of the guys I bowl with replaced the windows in his house several years ago. He has an older home and the windows had never been replaced. The old windows were single pain glass with the weights on the sides to help lift the windows. The windows didn’t fit real tight either because you could actually see the curtains move a little when the wind was blowing. He had the windows replaced, the weights removed and the empty cavity filled with foam insulation. The new windows made a world of difference in his house.

 

[readhead]

Exactly my point. It was worthwhile from a comfort standpoint and they will probably save on heating costs so it was worth it for them as long as they don't get hung up on repayment time.

 

[darkwoods]

Thanks for all the advice. Yeah, the photo is upside-down, I figured my phone would flip it. Guess not.

The windows aren't old, neither is the house, and it sounds like killing the mold with bleach and then maybe covering with Kilz before installing a new sill is the way to go. We're planning on selling and moving in a couple of years anyway.

Any advice on dealing with the condensation that seems to be causing the problem in the first place? I'd thought about getting synthetic/plastic decking and cutting sills for the ones that have swelled so it's never an issue in the future.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would put some water in the bottom track to see if there is a leak at a joint. Have seen aluminum windows with failed joints leak from the bottom track where they join the side jambs.

 

[Toolfool]

Condensation is inherent in aluminum framed windows. There is no thermal break. Warm on one side meets cool on the other side and you get condensation. Only way to stop it is to replace the window with vinyl or wood window with a thermal break. I've replaced hundreds of aluminum windows and every customer wished they had done it years ago.

 

[csp]

I'm shocked that a home built in 2001 actually has aluminum windows to begin with!

 

[glazier1]

One way to check for leaks in the jamb/sill joints is to put duct tape over the weep slots and fill the sill with water and watch it for a few minutes. Most of the leaks that I have seen in horizontal sliding windows with nail fins are in the joints since there are no anchor penetrations through the sill. If rain is filling the track and over-flows into the interior, enlarging the weeps might help, but it will increase wind noise and dust infiltration.

 

[darkwoods]

I would put some water in the bottom track to see if there is a leak at a joint. Have seen aluminum windows with failed joints leak from the bottom track where they join the side jambs.

Not sure if the attached picture is clear enough, but I can see a slight gap in the frame where it has probably been leaking. Not leaking from outside, just the inside condensation seeping through into the sill.