Remove exterior window caulk?

[czgunner]

I'm selling my house and the buyers want us to recaulk the outside windows.
I spent a few minutes out there and thought I would ask you lot.
It seems to be a hard type of caulking, definitely not a silicone based, and has be painted over.
Any tips on removing it without damaging the vinyl windows or the siding?
Thanks!

 

[ShadowRuleZ]

I wouldn't mind seeing what people suggest, I've got the same problem. I'm tempted to caulk over what's there.

 

[hayhauler71]

most likely urethane caulk. A heat gun helps soften and a plastic scrapper is useful but you have to be careful.

 

[38 Dodge Coupe]

x2 on what hayhauler 71 says. I now use a deflector on my heat gun to keep the glass from heating up ( and cracking) Lesson learned.

 

[dewalt378g]

That old caulk is the worst plus it's painted over. The best technique I've used was just short of chiseling it off. Sounds horrible, I know, but sometimes the caulk is just so brittle that you can put a painter's 5-in-1 tool against the edge of the bead at a low angle, give it a tap with a hammer and it pops right off. I don't know the condition of your windows or siding so use some caution. If it's a little softer you can get at it with a multimaster equipped with the scraper blade or a 4" taping knife using the chisel method. Both techniques can leave a small bit behind, but it's better than throwing down a huge bead of caulk to cover everything.

 

[artrem]

Are you talking about the glazing around the window panes? I re-glazed and painted every window in our house about 20 years ago (~23 windows @ 16 panes each). Not a job I'd want to do again. I used a small propane torch and a putty knife. Didn't break a single pane. Worst part was standing on a ladder for hours at a time; I finally got some heavy hiking boots.

 

[awdblazer]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Workforce-3-in-1-Caulk-Tool-CT31HD/202251544

 

[czgunner]

Okay, so I'm thinking about this Dewalt heat gun from Lowes. I think I'm going to need to get this stuff warm to scrape it out.
What do you all think about this heat gun?

And what temperature to soften the caulk?
Awdblazer, thanks for the link to that tool!

 

[kbs2244]

Negotiation time!!!

What is it worth to them to have you do this???
Is it a deal breaker?

Get a contractor estimate and go from there.
This is not a technical issue!!!
It is your RE agent vs. theirs.

 

[cdestuck]

Darn. Someone makes a spinning tool for your drill that's make to chew it out but I can't remember which tool cat I've see lot in.

 

[rippered]

Whether you are talking about glazing or caulking.... Why remove it ? Professionals only remove what's loose or looks bad.

 

[czgunner]

rippered, that's the best thing I've heard yet! If I clean the area and recaulk is it really that big of a deal?

 

[Zeke]

The best way I know how to do this is to make a mess out of one window and send pics to your agent and tell them this is the best you can do and it looks good to you. You may get an urgent message to stop! Funny how that works.

 

[usa#1]

The best way I know how to do this is to make a mess out of one window and send pics to your agent and tell them this is the best you can do and it looks good to you. You may get an urgent message to stop! Funny how that works.

While this ^^may be true, since it wasn't clearly stated, my guess is that a home inspector pointed this out and has the buyers convinced that it "has" to be done or their "new to them" house will rot down. My suggestion would be not to make a mess or the buyer will be requesting you hire a licensed contractor to do the work. I believe the OP stated he has vinyl windows. I'm not sure if the windows in question are replacement or new construction type. Pics of said problems areas would gather better repair suggestions.

 

[czgunner]

Well, here is an example of what I'm dealing with.
This is the edge of the patio slider.
Siding to the left and window frame to the right.

 

[GRN96WS6]

Sounds rather silly that they are scoffing about that IMO. I'd just get an estimate from someone and offer that money to them and let them get it done on their own dime/time.

 

[usa#1]

I can' t tell from the pic, but if the tan part is the slider,I believe I would just get a tube of good quality white exterior latex caulk and run a narrow bead over the existing caulk. Tool it with your finger to make it all smooth. Make sure to fill the gaps so no water can enter. If you are concerned about getting the white all over the tan slider, run a strip of masking tape down beside the existing caulk bead, run the new caulk bead and tool the joint before pulling the tape. You could also put tape on the other side to make a nice consistent looking joint.

 

[dewalt378g]

That doesn't seem that bad after all. You can pretty that up by knocking off all the chunks that stick up then recaulk like USA#1 said. Forget all the heating, scraping and chipping.....

 

[haptiq]

That bead looks like ****. Run a razor knife down each side and the whole worm should pull out. You'll get the best angle down pat after one or two windows. The trick is a sharp blade, get a 100 pack.

 

[moneyisflying]

In the opinion of this retired professional painter, I would say why are you removing it? If it is to seal the gap, I would simply caulk over it to fill in the gap (a wet rag over it will help clean up the excess). If its purely for looks, and you want it to seal and look perfect again, I would use the 5 and 1 tool already mentioned above to remove the caulk. If the caulk is so old and of a base that it is hard to a touch, the heat gun won't do anything. It will only work if the caulk still feels somewhat rubbery.

 

[RECox286]

If all the windows are in as good a shape, caulking wise, I would

caulk over top of the existing, not putting in any effort to clean

up what is there, as it looks in good shape, except for the holidays.

You may be interested to find a painter who would do the job in

probably no time flat, b/c of the long time experience painters have

in doing such jobs. To find a good contractor, drop by any retail

store that caters to painting contractors. IE; Sherwin Williams,

etc. They usually have many contractors using their product on a

steady basis. If I were not sure I could over caulk a window in

less than 10-15 minutes, and have it look professional, that is what

I would do. Don't forget there may be ladder work to consider in that

time, which can eat up a contractor's estimated time/profit.

Uncle Bob

 

[Zeke]

That's a bad joint to begin with and one that is hard to run a bead on. Cut it out so you can run the gun smoothly or you'll have something that will look like what I was suggesting to get out of the work.

 

[The Cobbler]

hire a caulking company to do it, or get a quote & drop your price by that plus more ( as an incentive)
remember that is now a focal point for the new buyers & they will be looking at the new job with all eyes , any little flaw will probably bring comments/negotiating down the buy price.

if you're stuck on doing it yourself , try an oscillating tool with a scraper blade on it , or if the caulk is somewhat flexible, try razor scrapers

 

[2level]

I'd try to cut it out and run a new/proper full size bead. Smearing over the existing caulk is a half-*** fix.

 

[Zeke]

I'd try to cut it out and run a new/proper full size bead. Smearing over the existing caulk is a half-*** fix.

Pretty much. There are exceptions but not there.

I installed around 5000 windows over 25 years plus a **** load of doors. I should have bought caulk by the truck load. The best was poly urethane. God help the person that wants to remove a window caulked with that.

It does yellow.