Remove stuck/rusted nut from mower deck

[puttsy]

Hey all, I've searched around on the web but have only gotten a few tid-bits that I've already tried or don't have the capacity to do.

I have a mid-'90s Snapper riding mower with a 38" deck. It sat outside for over 5 years but, after some engine work (obviously!), It's up and running. I removed the deck prior to working on the engine and transaxle to get more wiggle room and figured it wasn't worth puttsing with the deck if the mower it goes on doesn't run (It's only 38" so, it's not really all that great to use on larger land). Well, After getting the motor moving and engine to run, I'm staring down the deck and both blades are stuck solid. One of them you can still see some gray but, the other blade is all rusted up.

I took a breaker bar and socket to it and it wouldn't budge. Tried to heat it up (small torch is all I've got) THEN get it off, nothing. Let it set for a day with WD-40 and still, not moving. Any suggestions? The spindles are free (ish) and rotate. One is a bit rough but the other seems totally fine. I'll probably end up getting new spindles once I get the deck torn apart but, want to make sure I can actually get the deck taken apart before deciding on it's future.

Thoughts? What do the pro's in the rust-belt use to loosen up old gunk? Also note that it's a mower so, in order to try anything, you need the block the blade(s) to keep them from turning with the force you're applying.

 

[andrewsnmorgan]

http://www.google.com/products/cata...=X&ei=LZWsT-fcJtC_gQfKu7GzBA&ved=0CIMBEPMCMAE

 

[Riverrojo]

Use an impact gun. It'll be off before you blink.

 

[Brad54]

Um... you sure it's not a left-hand thread?

-Brad

 

[fastbroshi]

That seems to happen quite a bit given all the moisture those fasteners are subject to. Would it kill the manufacturers to make them out of stainless?

 

[kb2tha]

Angle grinder and then replace nut and stud with stainless ????

 

[djkeev]

Ok, help me understand where this "nut" is.

Does this nut hold the blade spindle unit onto the mower deck or.....

Does this "nut" hold the blade onto the spindle?

If nut holding spindle, grind it /cou off the side of the nut and remove it.

If nut holding the blade on, impact wrench, it's most likely a bolt, not a nut. I'd give it a good shot of heat as well, get the Yellow can of gas for your handheld propane torch, it burns hotter.

Dave

 

[OccupantRJ]

Cut a notch into the end of a piece of wood to saddle over the edge of the blade to use as a blocking device to prevent the blade from turning. This helps keep the block in place. Use a box end wrench or socket and breaker bar with hopefully a dead blow hammer or mallet to break the nut loose. Cheater pipe if necessary. Never had it fail, and even if the nut has been rounded off, a pipe wrench can be used. This should work for either the lower or upper spindle nut.

 

[Buckgnarly]

oxy-acetylene.....anything else is just "warming" it up! I have no idea what i would do up here w/o my torch setup, half the time I see a rusted fastener I don't bother even trying w/o it!

 

[OccupantRJ]

Also, get yourself some true penetrating oil. WD40 is a good household product, but falls short as a penetrant for things like what you are doing. I use LPS products LST (low surface tension).

 

[puttsy]

Ok, help me understand where this "nut" is.

Does this nut hold the blade spindle unit onto the mower deck or.....

Does this "nut" hold the blade onto the spindle?

If nut holding spindle, grind it /cou off the side of the nut and remove it.

If nut holding the blade on, impact wrench, it's most likely a bolt, not a nut. I'd give it a good shot of heat as well, get the Yellow can of gas for your handheld propane torch, it burns hotter.

Dave

The nut holds the spindle unit in the deck and holds the blade on I do believe.

Exploded view of deck is:
Parts Tree Snapper 38" Deck Spindle


I saw rumors about PB Blaster, Hopefully my local farm store has it (Norby's Farm Fleet). If not, any other suggestions?

Also, Unfortunately, I don't have an oxy-acetylene setup drat nabbit!

Thanks for the advice guys! Always appreciated.

 

[signcrafter]

Our fleet farms carry PB blaster, not sure if they are the same as your store or not.

Do you have a dremel? Cut the nut off carfully. Cut until you are close to the threads and then use a cold chisel to pry the nut in half. A new nut is only 1.96 on the site you linked to and can probably be bought cheaper locally. Or something like this should work and be easier, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPZ4ZI/?tag=atomicindus08-20. I have one from craftsman from years back and it has come in handy every so often.

 

[kbs2244]

I have to second the use of an impact wrench.
If you borrow or rent one you will end up buying one.

I used to use my breaker bar, often with a 4 foot extention, a lot.
Since I got the impact I don't think it has come out of the tool box.

I got an electric one at HF since my compressor isn't all that big.
I don't remember the cost but with a cupon it wasn't much.

 

[waterboy12]

Try some pb blaster or kroil. If a socket and a breaker bar is all you've got just try constant pressure on it for a few minutes. If you still can't get it try some heat and a cheater.

 

[Buckgnarly]

The nut holds the spindle unit in the deck and holds the blade on I do believe.

Exploded view of deck is:
Parts Tree Snapper 38" Deck Spindle


I saw rumors about PB Blaster, Hopefully my local farm store has it (Norby's Farm Fleet). If not, any other suggestions?

Also, Unfortunately, I don't have an oxy-acetylene setup drat nabbit!

Thanks for the advice guys! Always appreciated.

Perfect reason to buy a new tool!

 

[Jagmandave]

I lube the blade holding bolts on my mower deck with grease and still those bolts get so tight!

I have a 3/4" breaker bar and I still have to use a 5' cheater pipe to break them loose. I use a 4X4 to block the blades, and I usually have to put my foot on the frame somewhere to get enough leverage to break it loose. A good coat of grease and a yearly blade change keeps them removeable tho....

The problem comes when I don't take them off every year and regrease them.....

if you can use a good impact gun on it that will probably get it off the easiest - if you don't have one maybe you can take it to a shop that does, they won't charge you much if anything to bust one off.

My impact gun won't budge mine when they get that tight.

 

[5lima30]

+1 on impact wrench AND Kroil, PB Blaster, or actetone/ ATF mix not WD-40. JMHO.

 

[puttsy]

Perfect reason to buy a new tool!

I wish! An oxy-Acetelyne setup would cost more than the ****** rebuild for the new mower that's inoperable. Long story short, I had a Tuff Torq K46 ****** in a JD mower I bought (used) last summer. Sure enough on the third mowing this season, it stopped while mowing on a hill.

With 4 seemingly dead mowers sitting on 3 acres and no moneys, It was "Make another mower work for <$50" or get some goats

Thanks for the advice guys. Picked up some PB Blaster today and a 6-point socket and longer, bigger pipe.Hopefully that'll do it. If not, Guess I'll take it to the local high school and let the autos students give it a whack with their (sponsored) high-end impact tools.

 

[Doozer]

If you bought an impact socket I would whack the socket with a hammer while you have pressure on it. Don't tap on it, really smack the **** out of it. Don't do it on a regular chrome one, or you will be buying another one .

Worst case scenario take it to your local garage. Not an oil change and tire place, but a real repair shop that works on cars. Or a muffler shop too. They will have torches and guys that have years and years of experience getting things like that off. Catching them on a Saturday afternoon about 30 minutes before they close (usually standing around cleaning up) would be your best bet.

 

[tribbles]

With 4 seemingly dead mowers sitting on 3 acres and no moneys, It was "Make another mower work for <$50" or get some goats

Hey, do it right and you could have free wool, meat, and goat milk! Just watch out for chupacabras.

 

[puttsy]

Great success! One of um' came off without too much persuasion but the other one took a breaker bar on both sides, a 4-foot pipe and every ounce of my 'buck-fifteen pounds. Thanks to all your advice though, sprayed some PB blaster on both sides and let it sit for a bit. Went back and got the bolt to spin. BUT, word to the wise, Snapper uses blades with a circular center-bolt, so blocking them doesn't do squat except break the rust bond between the spacer and the blade. [Grr!] Hence the BB on both sides.

@tribbles,

Touché my friend, touché. Well played.

and @Brad54, Nope, not left-hand thread. That was my first thought too but I peeked at the threads that were just barely sticking out of the better looking bolt side and they were standard. I've sheared a few left hand bolts in my day so I usually approach them with caution.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Glad that you persevered and were successful.

 

[BD1]

may want to install with never seize this time. Makes next time easier !

 

[puttsy]

Picked up some anti-seize with all the other stuff. Still debating on rebuilding the spindles to further help avoid this problem but again...money's not there. So far it's new nuts, spacers, and 1 new bearing....

But, anyone know how to measure a bearing? It looks like spindle bearings are pretty much the same all around but...

 

[OccupantRJ]

Picked up some anti-seize with all the other stuff. Still debating on rebuilding the spindles to further help avoid this problem but again...money's not there. So far it's new nuts, spacers, and 1 new bearing....

But, anyone know how to measure a bearing? It looks like spindle bearings are pretty much the same all around but...

If it is a standard ball bearing, it is measured for inside diameter (ID), outside diameter, (OD), and thickness, usually in metric, but sometimes in fractional or thousandths of an inch. Some are open sided, where the balls are exposed, some are sealed on one or both sides, and some are shielded on one or both sizes. Seals are a rubber, shields are of metal. The bearing number is usually on the side of the bearing. Sometimes tapered roller bearings are used in heavy duty spindles. Bearing prices are all over the map, depending on where or who makes them, how precision they are, and where you buy them. Mower shops buy them in volume, and they are usually fairly inexpensive there in generic form. I have had good use out of them on my mowers.

 

[jamesemery728]

Use an impact gun. It'll be off before you blink.

This ^^^^^^If you don't have one take the deck to your local mechanic and ask him for some help. Should take about 10 seconds to get both nuts off.

 

[robdy72]

I agree with the impact gun gad the same problem and used impact gun it was of in seconds.