Removing a Broken Fence Post

[moparfreak]

Have a puzzling question here about a broken fence. I'm on the building committee for our local synagogue and we had a day or two of really high winds, and there's a portion of a fencing concealing the dumpster that blew down. Cedar posts, they were pretty rotted so not altogether shocking. But, the question here is as I'm trying to figure out if I take this one on myself is how in the heck I'd get the rotted posts out of the asphalt. It might be hard to tell from the picture but there's the rotted wood post, as well as the concrete around it.

Any tricks for getting this out, or does it have to be excavated / dug out? I've seen some tricks for getting out posts that are still standing using farm jacks, but not ones that are broken off at the base.

 

[619DioFan]

I have removed broken off fence posts like this in the past. I use a 6 foot pointed digging bar and go all conan on them. drive the pointed end straight down into the wood. since its rotted it should break up . then start prying out the chunks. I also use a shorter crowbar to help with chunk removal. sorry I don't have an easy , zero sweat solution to this. just sweat and barbarian will power. if you are lucky you will end up with a square hole that a new pressure treated 4x4 post will slip into.

 

[cvairwerks]

Get a 3/4"x 18" lag screw and drive it in through a piece of chain. Use an engine hoist to pull it out.

 

[AJ.]

Pour some kerosene on it, let it soak in and light a match and burn it out

Cheers Andrew

 

[braidmeister]

Do they HAVE to come OUT? You risk doing a lot more damage by pulling them out by disturbing the soil under the asphalt - making it cave in later.

I would trim them off at ground level and then work it with a bar and pick just to mangle it enough to get it below grade. Then fill it in with that asphalt patch stuff they sell at depot etc.

 

[readhead]

How does that replace the post and repair the fence?

 

[fiemo weezap]

Pry bars, long drill bits to break up the bigger chunks, followed by a a good " sucking out" with a shop vac. Get to the bottom, clean off the perimeter, and the new post should slip right in. Some planing on the new post may be needed - standard size posts can vary in dimensions.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Now would be a good time to replace it with a galvanized pipe...

 

[braidmeister]

How does that replace the post and repair the fence?

Pre-coffee... but...he didn't say he was replacing the fence - only how to pull the posts.

It's pretty much one of those deals where you have to just hack away at it. I'd use a big *** bar maybe even the demolition hammer with chisel to split it to the point of pulling out chunks.

The problem is just replacing the posts with the same stuff it will happen again. You can coat the bottoms of the posts or they make 'socks' to help preserve the wood...or replace with galvanized pipe...or start over with a new hole a foot over from this one & fill in the old.

If you do new holes, you'll have to dig new holes but won't have to monkey with either a loose post (new one too small) or shaving down the new one to fit the old hole (new one too big). 4x4s can run anywhere from 3.375 to 3.625 and anywhere in between.

 

[moparfreak]

Well, yes it does need to be replaced as I need to get that stretch of fencing rebuilt and back up and secure somehow. I guess my first thought was if there's a way to clear out the old post and concrete and reuse the same post location. A long spade / auger bit to hog out the nasty wood would probably work for getting most of it out, as you can see it's pretty rotted out. The concrete is a different story though....

I'd love to do chain link but due ot appearance it's not an option.

 

[Bondo]

Get a 3/4"x 18" lag screw and drive it in through a piece of chain. Use an engine hoist to pull it out.

Ayuh,... I had to swap out 8, 4x4s, 4' deep in my fence last year,...

I used a 1/2"x 12" lag bolt, drove it into 'bout center of each busted piece with my makita 18v driver, through the hole of a 3/8" chain link,....
Hooked the other end of the chain to the backhoe bucket, 'n pulled 'em up, outa the ground,...

Hada use my air impact to get the lag bolt outa the busted chunks of 4x4pt,....
I also just dropped the new 4x4 pt posts right back into the empty holes, 'n used the bucket weight to make sure they went all the way in/down,...

 

[vettex2]

How does that replace the post and repair the fence?

make new holes and install fence posts ?

 

[Scout3918]

Pour some kerosene on it, let it soak in and light a match and burn it out

Cheers Andrew

This was is what I seen done couple times.

 

[kbs2244]

Removing it is more work than it is worth.
Just put he new post next to it.

 

[mrolds88]

Adam, I would get a long auger bit 3/4 to 1" and drill it out. You already have asphalt there and concrete around the hole. I would get your new post cut to size and put some construction adhesive to then secure it.

 

[uscarry45]

its most likely not rotten below the ground so if you could get a giant lag bolt screwed into it you may have a chance at getting it out. i think you could drill drill drill and get enough of it out to put another one in. or you could just bolt a post bracket over the top of it

 

[jhelrey]

I used to install/repair fences. It will be rotten under ground. The best thing to do is cut a square into the pavement around the post. Use a post hole digger and dig along side of it. Remove the wood, clean up the hole, center a new post, level, pour concrete, and crown it around the post and fill the square in.

Or cut a 10x10 hole either before or after this post. Dig hole, put new post in, fill with concrete, crown, and call it a day. Cut fence panel shorter.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Removing it is more work than it is worth.
Just put he new post next to it.

CONCUR !


But if you really want it out get a San Angelo digging bar. Break the asphalt out around the post and concrete lump, probably about 3-4' diameter. Dig down far enough to get a chain around the concrete lump. Then build one of these.

Patent Pending Post Puller

That chain is attached to a 1/2 ton pick up. That lump weighed over 200 lb.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Get a 3/4"x 18" lag screw and drive it in through a piece of chain. Use an engine hoist to pull it out.

IF the lag screw hold (highly unlikely) you bend the **** out of an engine hoist.

In onee year, my son and I pulled 20+ wood posts set in concrete. The Patent Pending Post Puller was by the fastest/easiest, even when we have to dig down below the surface to get the chain around the concrete lump.

 

[2012Eli3]

Retire old post in place. Install new next to it.

 

[moparfreak]

I'd like to try and avoid having to pull it out, but based on the location of it, that corner one might still need to come out. If I shorten it up, the doors won't line up with the other side, and if I widen it, it starts to run into the nearby driveway to the back....

That post puller looks like the real deal.....great lever action there. Probably the most challenging part is just getting the chain to grip the post properly and not slip right off.

 

[cvairwerks]

Look like a very short version of a falling derrick errection rig.

 

[Abeo]

The key point here it to pull straight up. It takes very little force to remove the posts IF you are pulling in the right direction.

In my yard, I had about 20+ posts to pull from a deck, and the method that worked best for me was to use a 6' 2x6 on it's side, one 4x4 block at one end, and my floor jack on the other end, with the post chained to the 2x6 at the mid point (a lever setup). Sometimes I'd need to adjust the chain length and blocking for deeper posts, but they slid out with ease.

 

[gewf631]

I also lost some posts in last week's windstorm (I'm not too far from you, so feel your pain). I've got about 400 feet of 6-foot cedar fencing around our yard, and over the years have replaced a dozen or so posts.

My method is similar to what others have posted.
I've got several 12"-18" lag bolts, and driving through a link of chain, place 2 into a post, creating a loop with the chain.
Using the broken post (5-6 feet), I place it through the loop, to use as a lever.
I then use my floor jack on one side of that lever, to lift the broken piece out of the ground. I can adjust the jacking point, or add scrap lumber to the other side, to give me additional travel if necessary.

I've been lucky on most - once the post moves about 6-10 inches out of the ground, I can just lift it manually the rest of the way. I've also had 2, where the post came with the concrete. A little more work lifting, and a bag of post-set concrete, but not all that bad.

I used this same basic setup, to pull the concrete-out on one that didn't have enough good wood for the lag bolts. Just dug down a foot or so around the concrete, wrapped the chain, and out it came.

I'm no artist, but the attached might help

 

[Abeo]

I'm no artist, but the attached might help

That's how I did mine. The picture explains it perfect.

 

[theoldwizard1]

That post puller looks like the real deal.....great lever action there. Probably the most challenging part is just getting the chain to grip the post properly and not slip right off.

Yeah man ! The center post is 3 - 2x6s. The "arms" are single 2x6 and the bottom is a doubled 2x6 (the arms slip in between). After those 20+ posts, the top was worn/rounded over enough that the chain does slip.

My (untested) fix is, mount a forged lifting eye a few inches below the top of the center post on the back side (where you are pulling from). Cut you chain in 2 pieces but make sure that there is plenty of excess to wrap around the item being pulled out. Attach the 2 chains to the lifting eye with anchor shackles. Not sure how well this will work because you want the front side of the chain to be as short as possible.

The next tip is, install an OVERSIZED hook on the end going around the item that that is being pulled up. That way the chain will slide through and tighten . To save digging, it the post was in good shape, we drilled a 3/4" hole through it and stuck a Grade 8 bolt through. I used 3/8" chain but I will bet the HF 1/4" would be fine.

My base is probably too wide (6') and the center could be a bit taller (4'). I saw one video where a guy was pulling small (6-8") tree stumps with a similar rig that was bout 6' tall using only a 1/2 ton come-along !

The video does not show it, but start with the post puller leaning as far forward as possible so that you maximize the amount of upward pull.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm no artist, but the attached might help

Tried that ! Not very efficient !!

The "beam" was 2 - 2x10 screwed together. As the load increased, it wanted to rotate, so I had to add some boards mounted perpendicular to prevent that.

The Patent Pending Post Puller is much faster and mine is small enough is is store up against the back garage wall.

Hint: Get extra chain or nylon straps so the the pulling vehicle will be on a paved surface. On dirt/grass the wheels will spin.

 

[lakeroadster]

I like the kerosene idea... I gotta try that, sounds like a good time.

If the guy who installed the post originally drilled through the bottom of the post and placed a bar through it, or did something similar, to prevent the post from lifting... it'll never come out with simple upward force.

Be sure to keep us in the loop, and let us know what works out.

 

[driftpin]

I found these methods very entertaining, and I can see where the Class II lever would work well, w/a floor jack. I think the A-frame would work well, but that's gonna tear-up the hole, but if your intent is to remove the concrete too, it's 'down & dirty.'

I have a few posts to do, the concrete is 3' into the ground, the post is 2' below-grade, so on-top of one foot of concrete. I'll be interested to see what works, I think a combination of methods because of limited room. When I get to do it, I'll take pics & post (!) results. Thanks for the ideas.

My fence was 6' ht with PT 4x4's each 4' and braced with PT 2x4's top, middle & bottom, lag bolted together. It made it through Hurricane Andrew, but I was 35 miles from direct landfall, so it wasn't a Category 5 windstorm where I was. The fence was about 12 years old at the time. It didn't fare as-well from Hurricane Wilma, the fence was then 27 years old, and I lost about 380 linear feet out of a total of about 440 linear feet, so I think I got my money's worth out of it.

This thread will help me to get the initiative to do the work. Thanks again. :

 

[moparfreak]

I love it, so many creative approaches. I'll probably try the lever ideas out. But just thinking about it makes me exhausted. Last fall we replaced about 180' of fencing that had failed and rotted out. Set 24 posts and the auger turned my limbs into jelly.

Man, posts are the worst!!!

 

[gewf631]

Man, posts are the worst!!!

If you can afford-it, switch to metal. After 5+ years of replacing a few posts each year, our neighbor had metal posts installed - fencing crew dug all new holes, concreting-in the posts. Never asked the price, but I don't see those ever failing

 

[braidmeister]

...fencing crew dug all new holes...

That would be my approach in this situation. You're just not going to get the concrete out by hand without a lot of work & hassle. Even with a backhoe you'd have some work ahead of you & the surrounding asphalt will be all boogered up.

Walk everything down the line 18" and bore new holes. Hack the old junk below grade and patch it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

I have a few posts to do, the concrete is 3' into the ground, the post is 2' below-grade, so on-top of one foot of concrete. I'll be interested to see what works, ...

I am betting AGAINST anything except the A-frame !

In the video, that is a 4x4 post. The lump of concrete must be over 200 lbs because 2 "young bucks" (late 20s) could not lift it. Get a big sledge hammer and go medieval on it !

 

[theoldwizard1]

A few years back, before I invented the Patent Pending Post Puller, a new neighbor want to replace his chain link fence with a wood one. Several methods to remove the post and concrete were tried, none really successful. In the end, he cut them off flush at the ground.

The really STUPID thing was, he could not dig new, full depth holes because there were too many tree root. So he went down about 12" and called it good. A couple years later, the next owner had a fence that was leaning over by about 60° !!

 

[L5wolvesf]

To the OP. Presuming the job is done now - how did you end up dealing with the old posts? Thx

 

[BD1]

If the new post is 4X4, maybe consider buying 4" square tube with 1/8" or 3/16 wall. Test for fit. Cut tube say 10" long and weld flat plate to tube. Then weld long lag screw to plate and screw in. You might weld solid rounds to plate and drive into old post instead of screwing. Two would stabilized it depending on old post condition. You could drill. Holes in tube for nails, screws, or through bolt

 

[moparfreak]

It was a crummy dig it up job. The asphalt was only an inch thick or so and since it's old it cracked apart around the post itself so it was dug up, with a lot of manual labor....

Two years ago I got a crew together and we replaced about 300' worth of the fence that had badly failed. I wasn't able to get those posts out, so I cut them flush, and moved the new post locations over a few feet and used a two person auger I had borrowed from work. It was incredibly difficult work. Over the winter we've had the rest of the fence fail on the other side, and I've got about 200' to do this summer. I'm going to learn from my previous experience and have a guy come in with his bobcat and drill me new holes for $20/hole, so that I can start the project of actually rebuilding the fence fresh & rather than broken shell of a man after drilling 25 post holes.

 

[FANTM58]

Get a 3/4"x 18" lag screw and drive it in through a piece of chain. Use an engine hoist to pull it out.

This is the method I used, it worked well on most
But sometimes the wood is too rotted ??

 

[joe49]

It was a crummy dig it up job. The asphalt was only an inch thick or so and since it's old it cracked apart around the post itself so it was dug up, with a lot of manual labor....

Two years ago I got a crew together and we replaced about 300' worth of the fence that had badly failed. I wasn't able to get those posts out, so I cut them flush, and moved the new post locations over a few feet and used a two person auger I had borrowed from work. It was incredibly difficult work. Over the winter we've had the rest of the fence fail on the other side, and I've got about 200' to do this summer. I'm going to learn from my previous experience and have a guy come in with his bobcat and drill me new holes for $20/hole, so that I can start the project of actually rebuilding the fence fresh & rather than broken shell of a man after drilling 25 post holes.

You may want to look into these.
https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1167/0700033/post-hole-auger-hyd-tow-behind/

 

[lakeroadster]

You may want to look into these.
https://www.sunbeltrentals.com/equipment/detail/1167/0700033/post-hole-auger-hyd-tow-behind/

We rented a Toro "Dingo" when we built a 200 foot fence.. Dingo® Tracked Compact Utility Loaders