removing exhaust manifold stud tricks ?

[z28snksknr]

I had 3 out of 4 header studs snap recently on my Z. I don't haev a torch and i'm on my back in my garage with limited access to the headers so I cut them flush, drilled them out, and replaced them with larger bolts. I won't have this issue next time. I even drilled out the one hole that didn't snap the stud.

 

[Fueler]

I use the heat, wet rag, wax, bang on the end of the stud to break the rust hold and repeat as needed.

Easy outs: Don't bother BUT there is one good place to use the short ones with the spirals. Got a steel pipe plug in an iron casting that uses a hex key and you always round it out?

Hammer with aggressiveness that left hand spiral thing in there and turn it right out. The aggressive hammer trick is to bust the torque bond.
Most of the time heat won't be needed.
First size didn't work? go to the next size and use the heat.

 

[srmofo]

whats the wax do? I've never heard of that before

It acts like a lubricant and pulls into the threads. It also doesn't flash off as quickly as penetrating fluids do (thats why I prefer wax). Plus they smell good if you stole them from your wifes stash of candles...just dont let her know where all her candles are going

 

[Kevin54]

By now you probably have them out, but if not, take a hammer and hit the stud on the end. This will break the rust loose in the threads. If you are going to heat it, which you will, use an oxy/acetylene torch and not a little propane torch. You need real heat. And use a good penetrating oil and not WD40. Heat the manifold until a dull red, use vise grip and work the stud back and forth. Don't try to horse it out in one direction. Working it back and forth breaks the rust up. Turn it out a little further each time. If it starts to really bind, add a little more penetrating oil and heat.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

... use an oxy/acetylene torch and not a little propane torch. You need real heat.

Since I don't own an oxy/acetylene setup will a MAPP gas torch suffice for something like this?

 

[Strouty]

Since I don't own an oxy/acetylene setup will a MAPP gas torch suffice for something like this?

With many cycles of heating, I would try quenching as well. Mapp gets hot, but not like oxy/act does.

 

[Dan in Pasadena]

With many cycles of heating, I would try quenching as well. Mapp gets hot, but not like oxy/act does.

So, the answer is no?

 

[byoungblood]

Don't think brass can take the torque.

It doesn't need to be crazy tight, just tight enough to keep the joint from leaking. Personally I just replace them with stainless bolts if I think I'm going to be taking it apart often.

Last time I removed some studs from a turbo down elbow, I bought a couple of cheapo 1/2" drive impact sockets and had a buddy weld one onto the stud. Broke out the impact gun and out it came. Tried double nuts, vise grips, etc., on it before and nothing else would get it out.

 

[Griff93]

If you are going to use stainless which isn't a bad idea, make sure you put some copper coat (antisieze) on them. I had one that someone else put in break off on me the other day because it galled the threads and stuck. I could move it back and forth about 3/4s of a turn but as much as I tried I couldn't get it to come out.

 

[NASTYZEN]

Stainless Steel is prone to galling. Most stainless hardware is kinda soft, unless you get harder ones at a specialty hardware store. But even those gall up. Stainless, I find ,is a one time use ,if you can get them off again after that one time use.Replace both nut and stud each time and maybe some high temp antisieze will help.
If you shear a s/s stud of.You can no longer blow it out with a torch. Drilling with cobalt or carbide drill bits will then be your friends.