Removing metal caster sockets from a Snap-on tool cart

[tool_scrounge]

A bit back I purchased a used Snap-on KR-4188A tool cart in fair condition from a nice gentleman who was cleaning his workshop. It came with a couple of what look to be KRA-412 folding side shelves that I suspect are worth more than the cart. Spec Sheet of the cart shown below except mine does not have the drawer.



Other than the rust under the tubing plating, it is in pretty nice shape. The problem is the stem casters are held in place by metal caster socket insert similar to the one shown below. They are just flopping around so the casters are not vertical in use. One of the sockets is also missing. I tried hammering it in further in to better locate and remove the slop but it does not want to budge.



Any recommendations on how to remove these with inserts without destroying the tubes? I was planning on machining a solid metal equivalent and gluing them in place. I would like to reuse the British Caster Travelaid 125 medical casters and they are quiet and would work well for my application at work.

 

[The Cobbler]

either pressed in or welded . probably pressed in like your picture shows
a slide hammer or facsimile might get them out

 

[matt_i]

You could sand/grind the top surface gently, in many increments until the flange pops off. Then you might be able to loop a wire/cable/zip tie and use it to pull.

You could cut off a hex head screw, place in the socket and weld it there. Use as a puller for slide hammer.

You could make a extra heavy fishhook tool. Missing the barb of course but the heaviest J you could just drop thru the central hole. Again slide hammer.

You could use carbide burr to grind from the center-out although a rotating bearing could make that tricky. That could be epoxied, tack welded, or jammed with a sideways blow from a chisel point.

Sometimes you need the skills of a surgeon, sometimes you need the skills of a butcher. The power is to know when.

Many choices. Persistence wins

 

[manwithtools]

Those inserts are not coming out of those legs without destroying something. I'd get a piece of 3/4" plywood and mount casters to the underside and the cart to the top.

 

[BillK]

I would send an E-mail to Snap On and ask them. They have always been very helpful when I reached out to them. Maybe ask them what the inserts look like ? That might help devise a plan to replace them.

 

[four.cycle]

slide hammer with a hook at the business end, maybe?

 

[PoorUB]

You might be able to cut a couple inches off each leg and get new inserts from some other source, of course it wouldn't be original any longer if that matters.

 

[manwithtools]

You might be able to cut a couple inches off each leg and get new inserts from some other source, of course it wouldn't be original any longer if that matters.

I thought that too, problem is, the bolts that hold the bottom shelf are going to be in the way if you shorten the legs enough to get that caster socket out.

 

[PoorUB]

I thought that too, problem is, the bolts that hold the bottom shelf are going to be in the way if you shorten the legs enough to get that caster socket out.

Ah, good point. Then you are stuck with destructive removal. Do you have a die grinder and carbide bur? Just start chewing away what doesn't look like a leg.

 

[PelicanPines]

Those inserts are not coming out of those legs without destroying something. I'd get a piece of 3/4" plywood and mount casters to the underside and the cart to the top.

What he said.... Paint plywood RED first... For blending.

 

[The Cobbler]

grind off the flange on the end, drive them in deeper to get them out of the way

 

[tool_scrounge]

grind off the flange on the end, drive them in deeper to get them out of the way

This is the same thing I was thinking after staring at it for a while today. I will probably use a slitting saw and cur the flange in half for removal. The lower shelf attachment screws need to be removed next. Then get a 7/16" dia rod and pound the flange past the screws.

But first I want to make sure the new caster socket round inserts get here.

I ordered the caster sockets below from Gabriel Glide USA (link below). No minimum order which worked out to ~$5 for four of them + shipping. They make versions with 2 and 3 locking stars.

Caster Socket Round Insert (Also For Pintle Glide)

High quality metal Caster socket. Designed for easy install, this insert has variations for tube size and height. Used for installation of Casters and Pintle

furniturelevelor.com

 

[67King]

Work like a star nut on a bike fork. For those, hammer them through the other side. or stick a tube with an OD similar to the steerer tube's ID, and hammer them back out the top. Obviously since the end isn't open you can't do that. In addition to grinding off the flange them sinking them, you could also drill out the middle portion with the threaded part, which will let the stars rotate, and you could then grab and pull them out. That might be better than trying to grind the top of the flange since you'll free it from the star nut without the risk of grinding on the bottom of the legs.

 

[tool_scrounge]

In addition to grinding off the flange them sinking them, you could also drill out the middle portion with the threaded part, which will let the stars rotate, and you could then grab and pull them out.

I would have liked to do that, but the stem on this caster socket was not threaded and rotates really easily making it hard to drill out

 

[The Cobbler]

the stem on this caster socket was not threaded and rotates really easily

clamp the outer ring with vice grips? or tack weld them if you have a welder .

 

[tool_scrounge]

Curiosity got the best of me and I cut out the top flange of the caster socket with a Foredom tool and a cutoff disk.


Due to the dimples in the tubes for the flat head screws holding the lower shelf, there is only so far I can punch down the old caster socket remains. But I was able to push them further down without too much effort with a big hammer.

 

[tool_scrounge]

clamp the outer ring with vice grips? or tack weld them if you have a welder .

I thought about tack welding the locking disks to the center socket to keep it from spinning, but I sold my old monster Lincoln 300A stick welder as I was not using it enough to justify the floor space It took up.