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Removing OLD ceramic kitchen tile....

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mowkep

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having a helluva time getting this stuff up. Went out and bought the scraper and a different chisel. It's probably just going to be a bear no matter what. Scraper worked great by the sinkIMG_20220120_113422943 (1).jpgIMG_20220120_123720836.jpg area. Took two rows right up. Other ones are being stubborn and just chipping apart.
 
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duneslider

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Rotary hammer with a flat chisel bit will speed things up and let you clean off the old thinset. Goes way faster. You can rent this at HD if they have a rental center. I have a 3" chisel bit for my sds-max hammer, makes quicker work of it.
 
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mowkep

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Wife has been begging for a new kitchen for years. Told me I needed to at least get her a floor before I go back to work. Going to have vinyl planking laid in the kitchen and dining room. So here I am.

Probably why I avoided it for so long
 
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engineer2

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You got a nice chisel. Try sharpening it and try a bigger hammer.
I used my air hammer with a wide chisel. It plowed up the old tile like nothing.
Wear long sleeves and leather gloves. The edges of broken tile can be razor sharp and can go flying with power tools.
The garbage truck can't lift a wheelie bin full of old tile or concrete. Only fill it half way. My garbageman told me that after he couldn't lift mine.o_O
 
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ddawg16

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You need a bigger hammer.

Seriously, a bigger hammer helps

It's still not a fun job

But the real fun is next.....cleaning up the thin set
 
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mowkep

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Good to know. I took out (3) probably 5-gallon bags so far. Trash comes tomorrow so I'll stop now.

Some of the plywood is pulling up too....in small spots. Guess the thin set did its job.
 
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mowkep

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Half way done. Probably end up just prying the old plywood up because there is 1/8 difference in the dining room and kitchen floors.
 
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BillK

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I have the same project coming up in the somewhat near future except mine is on the concrete slab. I dont look forward to it either. I put it down about 35 years ago and I know its not going to be fun :(
 
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ddawg16

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EngineerNate said:
Replacing the plywood sounds like a nicer job than dealing with all that thinset.
Click to expand...

I second that. Your main issue is going to be what's under the cabinets. I'm guessing there are no plans to pull out the cabinets? In most cases it's not that hard. Just unbolt from the wall and carry out. Doing so will make the new floor a LOT easier and it will look better.

Better yet, install new cabinets. It's only money.

If you do put down new plywood....don't use OSB...try to use T&G. Then on top of that 1/4" tile backer...thin set between the tile backer and plywood.

This will reduce flexing of the floor and reduce the chance of grout cracking.
 
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mowkep

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TNT was always a plan. It's an awful, small, outdated kitchen. New cabinets/countertops are in the plans at some point. She wants a floor first and foremost. Thanks for pointing out the under the counter subfloor.....duh on my part. By the way, it is plywood because part of it is sticking to the tile when I pull it up. It may end up being a scraping/sanding deal to get the floor to near level.

We'll be installing vinyl planking
 
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mike93lx

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EngineerNate said:
www.homedepot.com

Milwaukee 15 Amp 1-3/4 in. SDS-MAX Corded Combination Hammer with E-Clutch 5546-21 - The Home Depot

Acquire a convenient tool to complete your tough tasks at the jobsite with this Milwaukee SDSMAX Corded Combination Hammer with EClutch.
www.homedepot.com
Click to expand...
What he said.

I spent a day chipping away tile in a bathroom with a buddy. We got about 1/3 done and it was loud and not fun.

I bought a Bosch bulldog sds the next morning and finished the bathroom in about 2 hrs.
 
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mowkep

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Nice. I'll check it when I go for another scraper today.
I'm over 1/2 way done. A good 5 hours of work the hard way,
 
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T66sc3

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www.harborfreight.com

10 Amp, 1-1/8 in. SDS Type Variable-Speed Rotary Hammer

Amazing deals on this 10A 1-1/8In Sds Rotary Hammer at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
www.harborfreight.com www.harborfreight.com

Sounds like a perfect time for a harbor freight trip on a low use tool. I bought and used this for a small slab removal project to get to my water line. Its priced similar to renting a name brand from the box stores and worked flawlessly for my project, now its stored in the garage for the next time its needed and if it craps out or doesnt work then I still broke even.
 
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FMB4

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Yep, no fun and slow going (for me at first). I did a small medium sized entry hall section that had much smaller tiles. Finally ended up using a cheap air hammer and a quality chisel. And yes, proper face protection along with full coverage clothing is a must.
 
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engineer2

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Not unheard of, but I'm surprised they put tile right on top of the plywood subfloor. Apparently it held up. Little projects turn into big projects:
Probably end up just prying the old plywood up
Click to expand...
At that point you may as well pull the kitchen cabinets and see what's under there.
BTW, while the plywood is out keep the wife out of there. I was tearing up the floor in the upstairs bathroom and when I got back from HD, there was a leg dangling through a new hole in the kitchen ceiling. She only had some minor bruises.
For new plywood, I glue (construction adhesive) and screw to the floor joists. Also an ideal time to upgrade any plumbing and electrical. You only need to put your new flooring part way under your cabinets assuming your future layout stays about the same. Saves on material.

I feel your pain. I'm tearing out the kids' bathroom and there is LOTS of tile. The ******* who built it many years ago (me), built it like a tank (kid-proof), so it's been a bear to tear out.
tile.jpg
 
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mowkep

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engineer2 said:
Not unheard of, but I'm surprised they put tile right on top of the plywood subfloor. Apparently it held up. Little projects turn into big projects:

At that point you may as well pull the kitchen cabinets and see what's under there.
BTW, while the plywood is out keep the wife out of there. I was tearing up the floor in the upstairs bathroom and when I got back from HD, there was a leg dangling through a new hole in the kitchen ceiling. She only had some minor bruises.
For new plywood, I glue (construction adhesive) and screw to the floor joists. Also an ideal time to upgrade any plumbing and electrical. You only need to put your new flooring part way under your cabinets assuming your future layout stays about the same. Saves on material.

I feel your pain. I'm tearing out the kids' bathroom and there is LOTS of tile. The ******* who built it many years ago (me), built it like a tank (kid-proof), so it's been a bear to tear out.
tile.jpg
Click to expand...
Yuck on that bathroom.

3 hours to finish up with the tile. Now onto the thinset.....I'll give it a shot.

The long handled scraper was an absolute waste of money. I got maybe 10 tiles off with it. The short Irwin chisel helped with some of the edge pieces that had bad angles.

Wife's dad did the tile work. He was a great finish carpenter BUT he tended to overdo it at times. I recall pulling trim pieces off that had 3 inch or longer nails in it.
 
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engineer2

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Now onto the thinset.....I'll give it a shot.
Click to expand...
If it is unmodified thinset, it will come right off with a belt sander and a coarse belt. Modified (latex additive) thinset will be a little more effort. Wear a respirator. Silica dust is real bad for lungs.
 
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FMB4

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I have a love hate relationship with tile floors, counter tops, backsplashes, and tube surrounds. Have owned several houses with one or more over the yrs. But I, as an former apartment 'super' (haha), had such in spades (at the 50 unit plex I worked at yrs ago). Yep, that job was lot of fun.
 
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engineer2

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Same here. Love the results of tile work, but hate the demo. Setting tile makes me nervous. Things can go wrong if you don't plan the layout and other details. Wife found some 12x24 tile for the tub surround. Well that size doesn't work out cleanly when laid horizontally for a standard 3x5 tub surround. Too many skinny tiles in corners.
 
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FMB4

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Actually the worst for me, while working a plex, was the all to frequent replacing of random late '60s and '70s bath/shower stall tiles. After time I got to be 'pretty' good at it. I was happy to hear the manger say that she "couldn't see where the repair was done". Nowhere near as tough as tearing out and replacing a tile floor section, but kinda difficult none the less.
 
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mowkep

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Stow, Ohio
engineer2 said:
If it is unmodified thinset, it will come right off with a belt sander and a coarse belt. Modified (latex additive) thinset will be a little more effort. Wear a respirator. Silica dust is real bad for lungs.
Click to expand...
Wife said her dad did the tile in the early 80's. So I have no idea what the composition is. Only luck I'm having is by sharpening the big chisel and knocking high spots off. I keep finding Builders Square tags in the thinset.....LOL
 
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mowkep

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Replaced dishwasher and fridge water lines and then found this....0 for 3
 

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txvwnut

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duneslider said:
Rotary hammer with a flat chisel bit will speed things up and let you clean off the old thinset. Goes way faster. You can rent this at HD if they have a rental center. I have a 3" chisel bit for my sds-max hammer, makes quicker work of it.
Click to expand...
This right here is the only way to get it done without killing yourself. I just had mine out demoing tile off my patio yesterday.
 
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BC1

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Wiz02

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EngineerNate said:
The harbor freight variety is probably acceptable for this particular use, if it's a one time job.
Click to expand...

I can attest to the Harbor freight rotary hammer getting the job done to remove tile, thinset and the 2 inch thick wet bed mortar underneath the thinset on a 5 x 8 bathroom. It has paid for itself multiple times over. This rotary hammer is one of the few times that I bought a cheap tool, as I didn't expect to use it much and I've used it on about 1/2 a dozen jobs and it's still going strong.
 
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