Removing Polyurea flooring

[mikec35]

Any suggestions how I can remove a polyurea floor coating that did not adhere well? Probably half of my 900 sqft garage is ok, the other half is peeling, some rather easily with a razor blade. I have been checking around for a edco machine or a low speed buffer and diamabrush but am not having any luck locating. Thought about purchasing a 12" diamabrush and renting a side by side buffer but that is an expensive option...Polyurea is advertised as 20x harder than epoxy so I am wondering how tough it will be to remove...Thanks for any advice. Mike

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Diamabrush mastic remover is very aggressive.
Eats thin-set too.

 

[mikec35]

Scotty, thanks for the quick reply. I notice that the mastic tool is 25 grit. Will the concrete surface be too rough to apply epoxy after using 25 grit? I also see it recommends using 12 to 16 inch - will either of these sizes work on a standard 20 inch low speed swing buffer?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Low speed? How many RPM?
Need brand too.

 

[mikec35]

I don't know the brand or speed, just a standard 20 low speed buffer I rent from a local Cleaning supply company. The kind they use on retail or warehouse floors. Thanks

 

[thegarageguy]

Hey Mike, give us a little more info......was this DIY? How was it prepped? What brand polyurea? How about some pics?

 

[mikec35]

I did install it myself, used the included non toxic etching solution on what was an uncoated, clean, 5 month old floor. I think either the etching solution did not work well or possibly the temperature dropped too much that night causing a problem ( even though you are supposed to be able to install down to 0 degrees). I installed part of the polyurea a few days prior and it adhered well and looks great, but it rolled on real slow and left roller streaks that did not level out. I live at an elevation of 3500' and it is not uncommon for the temperature to drop 30 degrees at night and I am thinking since I did this in the fall the temperature drop may have had something to do with my floor failing. I do not want to mention the brand as it was a test and I am not entirely sure what caused the failure, although I do feel the etching solution was not caustic enough and it probably contributed alot to the adhesion problem. The company didn't know what to tell me caused the failure but sent me a new polyurea to install, told me to sand the floor with 80 grit and solvent wipe. Sanding with the 80 grit swing machine a couple of weeks ago is when I noticed the poly coming up. Attached is also a picture of the part that turned out ok. I contacted the company asking how I can best get the product up and am waiting on their response. This test has turned into a nigtmare project. Attached are a few more pics, one shows how nice the portion that adhered looks and how bad the chalky portions that did not perform properly look. I did this over the course of 2 nights and have done another floor in the past, I feel I did a good job of following the directions to prep and apply. Thanks for any input to help me get this project completed and behind me.

 

[mikec35]

I checked around today for and Edco machine, one day will cost $300 and all they have are the carbide bits, no guarantee it will remove my floor coating. One company recommended a shot blaster, $560. Wonder how much a contractor would charge to remove this stuff? Cheapest route is probably to order the diamabrush. I hate to spend money on it and it not work either.

 

[FakeName]

Yikes. A nightmare.

The "natural" concrete floor just took a jump in desirability.

My condolences.

 

[dcs Inc]

Your first mistake was to trust the person selling the kit. A non toxic etching solution..... geeze. First of all if you have read any of my posts, acid etching is the pitts for a good profile for ANY high wear topical.

Now I'm not dogging on ya. There's just some things you shouldn't fall for. DIY sellers want you to think this easy and quick. Sometimes it is. Most of the time it isn't. Way too many variables to take into consideration for a really good outcome. Education is the answer and it's not all found on the internet.

Polyurea is a strange animal. There's are a lot of "different" stuff out there. Some good, some easy to apply, some just ****. You really need a good profile on your concrete for this stuff and you will never have a problem.... well, with most products.

Shot blast is the best profile proceedure. The diamabrush is pretty good, depending on the hardness of your concrete and how tight the finish, they can work well. gene

 

[Edger]

I believe you will have nil chance of removing it with shotblast, even with a 3 phase power machine. As you remove some parts you will dig holes in the exposed concrete. Bad idea.

 

[dcs Inc]

I can only go by what I've experienced. Edger, if you have had a negative experience on removal, thanks for posting. gene

 

[Edger]

It is polyurea in particular with some flexibility to it that does not respond as well as expected to shotblasting which acts best on hard, brittle surfaces. The polyurea (depending of course on the type) is not easily broken away by shot because it absorbs some of the shock of the shot so it gradually breaks away in patches. As you move the shotblaster over the floor slowly it gouges deeply into the areas where the polyurea is removed. That is my general experience.

My guess is that it is more likely to come off better and faster with diamabrush due to their ever-exposed diamonds and less likely to gouge the floor because those diamonds are on flexible pads.

 

[mikec35]

I am thinking of purchasing the 7" diamabrush grinder tool and removing with it. I don't mind some hard work, I think I will only remove the part of the floor that did not adhere well, probably about 400 sq ft. Does Legacy offer a discount for GJ members?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Pm sent.

 

[mikec35]

Ordered today.. I am excited to see how it works. Thanks

 

[dcs Inc]

Let us know. gene

 

[mikec35]

Received my diamabrush 7" grinding wheel. Did a quick spot test and I think it will work. The polyurea seems pretty tough to remove but I think this tool will do it. Just trying to build up the nerve to start. I am thinking my 45 year old back will probably rebel. I have decided that I am not going to try to remove all of the coating, I am only going to remove what is loose that started coming up when I used the floor sander. Seems like a large portion adhered well. This tool is quite aggressive, it leaves swirl marks in the bare concrete.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Mike:

Easy on the pressure, just push it along.
If you push too hard you will start eating the concrete.

I can run the smaller grinder with one hand without leaving any swirls.

Also... if your grinder is variable run it at half speed.

If not, just go easy.

 

[thegarageguy]

this *****, its **** like this that gives the industry a black eye.....good luck

 

[BryanB]

Mike - I sent you a pm.

 

[jtuds]

Yikes. A nightmare.

The "natural" concrete floor just took a jump in desirability.

My condolences.

I was even thinking of jsut using the cheapo garage floor paint...even if you have to recoat annually, it would take a number of years until you've spent as much as soem of the higher end epoxies, which do not always appear to be a safe bet.

 

[bdamico]

I was even thinking of jsut using the cheapo garage floor paint...even if you have to recoat annually, it would take a number of years until you've spent as much as soem of the higher end epoxies, which do not always appear to be a safe bet.

Had it. *****.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Guys, hundreds of folks purchase quality epoxy coatings and kits every month. One in 100 customers comes on this site and gives some kudos or shows a pic.

On the flip side...

99% percent of the folks that have a problem post it.

Moral: Take what you read here with a grain of salt.