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Removing powdercoat

Whitworth

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,100
Any tips or products for removing powder coat from gray iron castings ?

I've got a couple of parts that were coated with this stubborn garbage, and it's resistant to chemicals to the point where it would not be economical to use strippers or solvents. Getting under it with a chisel works, but that would take a long while.

I don't get people going gaga over this stuff; it is thick, brittle and if it gets on/in a machined surface is hard to get off. It's impossible to repair if damaged, and when it fails (not if, when) moisture gets underneath it and causes widespread lifting of the product.

But I digress...

I'd like to use the parts (drill press castings I got for free) but don't want spend excess time or money in yet another project.

Thanks,

Gary
 
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jstroede

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 28, 2010
Messages
1,082
Location
Kansas City
Aircraft stripper...there are other options, but for off the shelf this works.

And sorry you feel that way about powder coat. I believe you are in the minority.

John
 

^&right

Well-known member
Joined
May 27, 2013
Messages
426
Location
Indiana
There is only one good and fast option. B-17 sold by Benco sales out of TN IIRC. Pricey stuff but it WORKS.

If you do use it, treat it like nuclear waste and don't dare get it on your skin, you'll wish you had battery acid in your eye instead. Works best above 70*, boils at around 105*-110*. I'm not kidding when I say gear up. Leather apron and the best chemical gloves you can find at Rural king or an industrial supply store. Use the rubber gloves from Wal Mart and you'll have lifetime scars if you spill any real amount on them. I wear a full faced safety shied, long pants and work boots. Use tools to dip and retrieve parts out of the liquid. Cover it with a trash bag as it evaporates like steam. Don't splash it. Retrieve what does not evaporate as it is reusable. Think ahead when doing this.

Sandblasting will work but takes forever. Brake fluid will also work but takes nearly as long and creates a bigger mess. If you buy a liquid stripper keep the temperature above 80*, it makes a difference and buy the best you can. It will make it soft and you'll use dentists picks to scrape it out of the nooks and crannies.

B-17 at room temp will strip your powder off in 30-60 seconds. Figure another $50 or so for hazmat ground shipping. They are extremely helpful if you call them.

http://www.bencosales.com/powder-coating-and-aircraft-strippers/b17-powder-coating-stripper

If your powder coater is getting stupid amounts of powder in your threads, find another powder coater. Its not hard to keep 98% of the powder out.
 

jimindm

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2011
Messages
2,398
Location
Des Moines, Iowa
My buddy has his IMCA modified chassis powder coated. When changing color he has to burn it off. He uses a large weed torch, and just darkens it. Then it will blast right off.
 

justme-

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2014
Messages
787
Location
Boston suburbs
aircraft stripper - off the shelf and not needing a haz mat suit or clean room procedures to use safely.
My Brother in law has stripped and re coated quite a few car parts - always uses aircraft striper. That stuff will take almost anything off.
 

Cyberbear

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Joined
Nov 23, 2013
Messages
1,524
Location
California
I bought some steel pipe that was powder coated but needed to be cut shorter and have a plate welded on to use as a support post for a shop lean-to roof.
I simply ground off enough to run a bead of weld and spray canned over that portion, otherwise they still look new as when I purchased them.
 

fleetimus

New member
Joined
Dec 21, 2014
Messages
3
Location
Colfax, Ca
B17 is the best without a doubt!! I can vouch for how well it works and how much it burns!! Post a pic of your piece you want to strip. And where are you located
 
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Chitown_hillbilly

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Joined
Sep 6, 2011
Messages
982
Location
Morris, IL
Any tips or products for removing powder coat from gray iron castings ?

I've got a couple of parts that were coated with this stubborn garbage, and it's resistant to chemicals to the point where it would not be economical to use strippers or solvents. Getting under it with a chisel works, but that would take a long while.

I don't get people going gaga over this stuff; it is thick, brittle and if it gets on/in a machined surface is hard to get off. It's impossible to repair if damaged, and when it fails (not if, when) moisture gets underneath it and causes widespread lifting of the product.

So you basically admit that it's an extremely tough coating and you wonder why people like it? :lol_hitti So you would much rather have a coating that comes off with your fingernail or flakes off when you spill something on it?

I guess I get it, you're frustrated that your "Free" parts aren't going to end up being free, but it seems awfully ironic that you think something is garbage because it's durable.
 

sberry

Banned
Joined
Jun 18, 2005
Messages
35,747
Location
Brethren, Michigan
Burn it and blast it off but,,,,,,,,,,,, you have to use super blast. I got no real lo9ve for it, about half the time its cracked with water underneath.
 
OP
W

Whitworth

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 26, 2011
Messages
2,100
So you basically admit that it's an extremely tough coating and you wonder why people like it? :lol_hitti So you would much rather have a coating that comes off with your fingernail or flakes off when you spill something on it?

I guess I get it, you're frustrated that your "Free" parts aren't going to end up being free, but it seems awfully ironic that you think something is garbage because it's durable.

I'd like to thank all for the suggestions thus far.

As to "I get it"..... No you don't get it. The parts were badly powder coated, with the castings not properly prepped and powder coat applied over dirt and stripping residue. My friend was going to toss them but offered to me. Why not, it's a pity to waste them. He had given up as hopelessly botched for his restore, so I took the parts off his hands.

I fail to see the irony. My comments about powder coat are correct, or are they not? Indelible magic marker is a great product, until the kids use it on the walls. Powder coat misapplied or use in the wrong application is the same.

I don't see the advantage over paint, except for the durability. Repair of powder coat is difficult. And if it starts to lift there's nothing to stop it. I'd rather a finished surface wear than be impossible to be undone.

I have a needle scaler and may try that, or heat as some have recommended. Thank you all !

Gary
 

lynnbilodeau

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 4, 2013
Messages
813
Location
Oklahoma
"I don't see the advantage over paint, except for the durability."

That is it. That is the obvious advantage, and the reason lots of guys like it.

Kind of like saying: "Other than that Mrs. Lincoln, how was the play?"
 

Toxicscrew

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 22, 2006
Messages
296
Location
Saint Louis, MO
You can use the orange can stripper from Home Depot/Lowes. B17 is the best as mentioned. Think Eastwood has some stripper as well, will fall in between those two.

If the powder fails it's solely the applicators fault, not the powder. People buy those kits and call themselves a coater without having any clue the proper way to prep the material to be coated. Had to deal with people asking why I was so expensive when their best friends sisters cousin would coat their wheels for $10ea and a 6 pack. You get what you pay for.

Depending on the color it's not hard to repair either. You guys are still living like it's 2004 with regards to PCing.
 

koditten

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Joined
Apr 10, 2008
Messages
5,528
Location
Midland, Michigan
I don't mind it one way or the other. It has its uses.

When it comes to removal, it isa pain. I get about 2-3 front end brush gards a year that need repair. You can not weld thru it, it has to be removed. The B17 is good info.
 

bdkw1

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 31, 2012
Messages
219
Location
Easton, KS
Jasco paint and epoxy remover. Wear gloves and goggles, it will burn you. Needs to be semi warm out, it seems to not work well under 70*. We used it regularly at work to strip powder coated parts.
 

Fueler

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 22, 2006
Messages
1,620
Location
Urbana, IL
As mentioned the super strippers work but take time. It burns nice though.
Catch a sharp edge of it and try your torch. It kind of melts and pulls back from the flame. A little fresh air is called for though.
 

quickro

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2015
Messages
18
I have been a lurker for a while but have some info as I work for a company which produces powder coating powder so have some experience:

• There are multiple types of powder coatings available on the market much in the same way you can get water based paint that your kids use through to ultra high temperature paint used on the insides of ovens. The same product may even be coated with different types of powder over the years so each situation can be different.
• The market place and its needs have changed dramatically over the past 5-10 years. This means that where as 99% of powder coatings 10 -15 years ago where generally resistant to most domestic chemicals ( petrol , diesel, cleaning fluids) and had good UV and environmental resistance (5-10 year life span typical). Now a days powders are designed for certain uses and useless for most others, unfortunately a lot of coaters just go for the colour and texture and forget about the end use or the customer just asks for the cheapest.

1. To remove powder coating “domestically” you can split them into 2 groups : Reactive or unreactive.
a. Reactive coatings will react when they are first applied and form a chemical and temperature resistant form. Identify by scratching the surface then hold a heat source very close by if it does nothing then starts to burn or char it’s a reactive.
b. Unreactive coating these are just melted to form the coating. Identify as above but this type will “self cure” as the edges of the scratch start to soften and the scratch heals.

2. Once you have identified the coating type:
a. Reactive types. These need to be destroyed / removed by mechanical means or by extreme temperature or extreme chemical attack. Your line of attack should be
i. Flame the surface until it chars DO NOT SET light to the product as that just gets messy/ dangerous ( fumes).
ii. Mechanically remove, best bet is blasting using which ever media is the cheapest media available as this will become contaminated for future use. Wire brush / scrappers can be used but 80% of powder coatings now have adhesion promoters which means the product will not peel off rather chip of.
iii. After a first pass or when you can see more of the original colour / texture rather than a burnt surface reuse a flame to char the ruminants so you are always removing burnt material.
b. Unreactive types. These are more of a pain as when they get hot they melt so will contaminate / get every where.
i. Ideal way, get it in the freezer for at least 4hrs. Then mechanically remove, blasting is the industrial way but the best DIY is to scrape / chip or use a hot air gun that can be controlled so you only heat the area you are going to scrape off.
ii. Burn the lot off, this is not ideal as its dangerous for the part (distortion), you ( fumes) and very messy. Also as mentioned above most coatings have adhesion promoters which leach into the substrate, these have the action when burnt of contaminating the surface of the part for a few micron which means subsequent coatings can be ****.
iii. Chemical attack – least favoured but for DIY use may be best as it comes in cans and needs nothing more than a brush, safety equipment lots of time all of which are readily available for the DIY’er. You must take precautions as you want to remove the coating in layers constantly scrapping of the reacted surface and then reapply to the fresh surface underneath. STOP before you get down to bare metal as most of the chemical agents love to react with the metal below which causes nightmare for subsequent coatings. But if you sit there watching, scrapping then reapplying you can get good results at home. As for which chemicals are best I have no idea as I am based in the UK and we use pure chemical rather than branded mixtures. As with point 1 above one persons results may not be the same as yours its **** it and see.

As for the nay sayers “ it falls off”, “ it chips and then rusts under neath” yes it did but times move on and the latest generations of powder coatings have there place as long as they are chosen correct based on the end use.
 
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