Removing/Replacing Side Windows from Stick Framed Shop

[CamarosRus]

Just bought home with this shop in rural Seattle (So King County)

Seller said he wanted plenty'o daylight shining in garage. I dont like the see through windows from a security point.

Could you help me understand what I will have to do to either eliminate or install much higher cleristory windows, say 12 x 60 to replace these 48" high x 60" long's. I could cover glass with a reflective film and build bars, but may not like the look ???

6" Cedar Lap Siding. I will buy more pcs if neccessary.

14' Side Walls. Current windows are 4' off slab, 4' high x 5' long

Would I want the new cleristory 12 x 48, 12 x 60" to slide for summer ventilation ???

Would you please go step by step, with a concise explanation of the preocess, as I have NO FRAMING experience.

Also, what about having windows installed in top door 12' x 22' panels ?$?$?$

Chuck

 

[nehog]

Maybe talk to a glass person about stick-on 'frosted' vinyl? It is frequently used on bathroom windows for example.

 

[Gary S]

Basically, you pull out the old windows, reframe for the new size, and install them. But, it will muck up your siding when you go to a smaller size. Unless you pull all the siding, and reinstall from scratch, adding enough new siding to match the old, it will show where you patched it.
A few years back, my Son bought a large shop. It had a single 9x7 door on the front, and a window to each side of the door. He wanted a 16x8 door on the front instead. We pulled the 9' door, and the windows, reframed the wall for a larger door and installed the door. His shop siding is corrugated steel, and by going from a smaller door to a larger one, we had extra steel left over. He patched the remaining part of the wall where the former windows overlap the new wider door, but it shows because there are extra seams there now. He is happy anyway.

So, you need to decide if you can accept having your siding look patched around the smaller windows, or if you are willing to spend for all new siding, or at least enough to get a match if possible.

 

[1948]

honestly i wouldnt put smaller windows it will look dumb. just do as stated before and get some sort of frosting film for the glass. or take those out and put some blocks in.

 

[jlckmj]

That is the kind of project that would be done by a good carpenter in less time than it would take you to go to the store and buy the tools to do it. (not quite)

If you have no framing experience, it would be money well spent to hire someone to do it, and I also agree with the other poster about the siding not matching when done.

As long as they are there already, I would fog them over or use blinds, then secure them on the inside with some type of mesh or bars to keep the burglars out and enjoy the sunshine.

Jim

 

[SARG]

Interior wood shutters.

 

[Falcon67]

Framing in narrow windows will be a chore and will screw up the siding unless you de-skin most of the wall. If you go thin and taller, then you've got more cutting to do and new headers to install, so you'll be hacking up the inside walls too. IMHO - not worth the trouble. Those are nice windows and you'll likely be glad later that you kept them. For some additional security, examine the windows and drill/pin the windows in an appropriate place.

The really easy way would be to have a window company come and measure the exiting framed openings and create a replacement set of windows - say two or three narrow types - that will drop right into the existing framing. Cost is higher for the windows, but there is less work to do on the building. Windows come with a wide flange around them that is nailed to the framing and covered with the siding and/or exterior sheathing. Makes them hard to get out without tearing up the siding. Here's how the framing and mounting usually looks:

I put 5 clear windows in my shop because I like to see out and there's plenty of breeze around here. I put some cheap mini-blinds in the window wells to block any peepers. I have a whole $20 invested in blinds. That would be my suggestion - just put up some blinds. Put motion lights around the building and that will pretty much deter all but the most determined, which you likely could not stop anyway. Any jackleg with a $50 craigslist chain saw can open up your building like a beer can if so inclined.

 

[ratdoggy]

If the windows pop out for cleaning and you have the brand and model of windows you might be able to get new sashes with privacy glass made up and just pop them in.

 

[Macgyver_ga]

The last house I lived in had a huge 4x4 picture window on the side of the garage and a standard window on the back. I bought some 5% window tint from walmart and put it on the side picture window and stapled some 6mil poly sheeting on the back window (since the mullions would make tinting more difficult). I also drilled a 2x4 block in the the side of the window frame to prevent someone from opening the back window.

The only time you could sorta see in the picture window was at night, but it was on the side of the garage so I would be able to see someone walking up the driveway anyways to get to the window since I lived in a culdesac.

 

[regguy1]

Maybe talk to a glass person about stick-on 'frosted' vinyl? It is frequently used on bathroom windows for example.

I just used this stuff on bathroom windows in a rental house.
It's easy to install and very reasonable cost, they even give a little squeege to use. This stuff is thick enough that it doesn't stick to itself when you remove the backing prior to putting it on the window. Very happy with it.
This would be the easy way to go.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Q3K20O/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[CamarosRus]

Soooooo, I'm looking into several types of window film sold under the CONCORD Brand name. They are sending me sample swatches. I dont like the cosmetic look of the mirror finish. Want something more on the white opaque or matte look......

These windows are wood wrap finished on inside just like a house. Could I drill/bore holes top and bottom wood trim into the 2 x 6's and insert hot rolled steel round bars (painted white). Would need to cross drill bars to somehow insert screws so they cant be pulled up and removed from mounting holes (????)

 

[Zeke]

You can bar them up any number of ways.

And I agree that treating or replacing the glass would be a lot easier. I was a door and window contractor for 25 years. If you use white translucent material (like a skylight), you will get light through the windows and privacy day and night.

 

[kenfath]

Your garage is very attractive! I really question that smaller windows would look right. Have you considered burglar bars placed on the inside? They would be unnoticeable from the outside, would provide the security you want, reasonably attractive on the inside, relatively low cost, easy to install, etc. Also consider an alarm.

 

[onething]

Typical break-in around here is to kick in the door. Window tint or miniblinds will keep people from seeing what's inside when you're not around.
Bars on the inside of the windows will stop somebody breaking in through a window and some longer screws in the door frame hardware will help with that.

 

[CamarosRus]

I plan on alarm and camera systems.............

I was thinking to screw/bolt flat bar to upper and lower interior wood wrap (long fasteners into framing/studs) and then tack weld hot rolled bars to these upper lower flat bar stock. Remove to finish welding and paint. WHAT kind of fasteners can I install that cant easily be removed (to remove the entire bar assy)

Thanks to all for help!!!

 

[CamarosRus]

bump

 

[1948]

you can use what they use in public bathrooms, those one way flathead type screws, or the square head screws(not a lot of people have those) you could also put some fasteners on the inside face so they couldnt see them/reach them very easily. even with some long screws in there, what junkie is walking around with a chordless drill ready to unscrew them, and if they got a screwdriver, it would take them a long time to get them unscrewed, thats pretty risky to be standing around a long time.

what im thinking is the best option is to get to the other side of the wood frame, drill through the plate steel and the wood. install carrage bolts through the security frame and wood frame, and put a lock nut on the other side inside the wall. then fix the wallboard. theres no way they could get in then without a grinder and that would take a while and make a lot of noise!

 

[Falcon67]

Personally, for bars - I would get a couple of lengths of angle iron that fit my inside sills, cut some 3/8 or 1/2" bar, weld it all up, paint it nice and install with 1/4" lag bolts deep into the framing. My door also has 3" screws holding the dead bolt receiver into the door framing and the frame around the locks will get a custom steel backer after I get all moved in.

Remember, the real idea is to just make your place less of an easy target. If you get one that by-God wants in, only bank vault level stuff will stop it. the rest are basically lazy and fairly stupid so it doesn't take a whole lot to discourage that bunch.

 

[CamarosRus]

My house purchase has not closed, so this project will proceed in due time. I will post pics ASAP........

Im curious as to what fasteners I can find locally that either have a larger torx drive, square drive or ??? that is not the common hex, or phillips.....

Anyway.............

 

[little d]

Rus, what if ya just took a center punch and after attaching what ever you use, screw it on and center punch the inside of the screw?