Removing rust from chain vise grips?

[jeff000]

I have several chain vice grips, and they all have rust on the chains.

I used some rust remover stuff for one pair a while ago, and it worked like a hot damn, but they have since become the rustiest pair by a long shot.

So I guess I need to know how to remove the rust, and then not have it rust so easy anymore without being all greased or oiled up.

 

[Dingleburry]

Remove the rust then cold blue it?
Ive never used cold blue but i think its similar to anodizing and impregnates the surface of the material with oil or some kind of corrosion resistant something..

 

[Infinia]

I used some rust remover stuff for one pair a while ago, and it worked like a hot damn, but they have since become the rustiest pair by a long shot.

Use your "rust remover stuff", neutralize the acid by rinsed cleaning solutions, dry, then immediately apply either new plating, paint, wax, oil , grease or the latest silicon/poly paint protection product.
E.g. you need to use something to exclude air/moisture from contacting the surface of the metal. This coating may need to be stripped and/or re-treated from time to time,
If you want a useful tool i'd just use normal bike chain lube. see here https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=bike+chain+lube+rjthebikeguy

edit> Like painting, preparation is 97% of the success story.

 

[Ign]

Vinegar, but monitor it. It'll start to eat the metal at some point.

 

[6PTsocket]

Evaporust. It removes rust like a champ. It is very low toxisity, you can stick your hands in the stuff and pour it down the drain but don't. You can reuse it a bunch of times and it seems to provide initial rust protection until you get something on there. It is not an acid and does not need to be neutralized. For rust protection try Boeshield T9. Most of the other rust removers contain phosphoric acid that converts iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate, a black non porus coating. Even Coke works because it contains phosphoric acid.

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[bwringer]

I'd clean up the rust and apply a wax-based motorcycle chain lube or something similar. This will leave the chain part protected with a thin, clean layer of transparent wax.

Maxima makes a product for motorcycle chains called "chain wax", but it's very sticky and messy. I'd avoid that and look for a can of one of the Dupont Dry Film lubricants or something similar. There are a couple of other similar brands, but you want something that dries to a clean, clear, non-sticky film. You should be able to find something in any hardware store.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018FTA5WA/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rlitman]

The dry film teflon lubricants (and waxes) are good on bike chains, because they don't collect dirt like wet films, but they also are awful rust preventatives.

If you really want a dry film rust preventative, I'd look at Eezox.

 

[blacknblue]

Electrolysis. Just need a bucket, water, electrolyte, sacrificial metal and a trickle charger. Look it up on you tube. Best way to completely remove rust.

 

[All]

Evaporust is a very expensive way to obtain the same chelation action that a bucket of molasses at Tractor Supply can accomplish for 1/1000th of the cost per diluted ounce. I once bought a gallon of Evaporust, and after using it I let it evaporate. About 90% of it did just that, and what I was left with was a small pan of molasses. And they are right... molasses is non toxic. Tractor Supply sells it to mix with grain to feed horses.

 

[BD1]

Vinegar as mention but only soak the chain. That vinegar removed all the chrome on a adjustable wrench that was frozen. It will work.

 

[6PTsocket]

Evaporust is a very expensive way to obtain the same chelation action that a bucket of molasses at Tractor Supply can accomplish for 1/1000th of the cost per diluted ounce. I once bought a gallon of Evaporust, and after using it I let it evaporate. About 90% of it did just that, and what I was left with was a small pan of molasses. And they are right... molasses is non toxic. Tractor Supply sells it to mix with grain to feed horses.

I am aware of molasses and that they both act through chelation but you better have a lot of time. Molasses is SLOW. It is like using Coke to get a little phosphoric acid.It is the home remedy version Molasses is good if you have a really big part to deal with.

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[WWheeler]

I've used Evaporust many times to get the rust off any used tools I acquire that need a little cleaning up and it works really well. I bought a gallon a couple years ago that I keep in a bucket with a lid to reuse.

As far as keeping tools from rusting I always keep a rag that gets an occasional spritz with Boeshield T-9 hanging on the side of my boxes that I use it to wipe off all of my tools before they get put back in a drawer. I don't recall that I've ever had a tool rust on me while I owned it. I don't let my tools get wet if I can help it and if I did need to for some reason I'd still make sure they are clean and dry before they get put back up.

 

[d.mcfarland]

^^ Most everyone always laughs off the gun oil when rust comes up for tools, but it's the best option I've found so far. Those same people always say WD-40... yes, it's better than nothing, but it's no protection in a can like gun oil.

 

[G-ManBart]

Evaporust is a very expensive way to obtain the same chelation action that a bucket of molasses at Tractor Supply can accomplish for 1/1000th of the cost per diluted ounce. I once bought a gallon of Evaporust, and after using it I let it evaporate. About 90% of it did just that, and what I was left with was a small pan of molasses. And they are right... molasses is non toxic. Tractor Supply sells it to mix with grain to feed horses.

Evaporust can be used many, many times, so it's nowhere near as expensive as you suggest, and it's much faster than molasses. I do like to filter it when I pour it back in the jug, but that's about it.....

 

[6PTsocket]

I've used Evaporust many times to get the rust off any used tools I acquire that need a little cleaning up and it works really well. I bought a gallon a couple years ago that I keep in a bucket with a lid to reuse.

As far as keeping tools from rusting I always keep a rag that gets an occasional spritz with Boeshield T-9 hanging on the side of my boxes that I use it to wipe off all of my tools before they get put back in a drawer. I don't recall that I've ever had a tool rust on me while I owned it. I don't let my tools get wet if I can help it and if I did need to for some reason I'd still make sure they are clean and dry before they get put back up.

That lid is crucial. The stuff is water based and will evaporate if you don't keep it covered. Good product.

^^ Most everyone always laughs off the gun oil when rust comes up for tools, but it's the best option I've found so far. Those same people always say WD-40... yes, it's better than nothing, but it's no protection in a can like gun oil.

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[6PTsocket]

I've used Evaporust many times to get the rust off any used tools I acquire that need a little cleaning up and it works really well. I bought a gallon a couple years ago that I keep in a bucket with a lid to reuse.

As far as keeping tools from rusting I always keep a rag that gets an occasional spritz with Boeshield T-9 hanging on the side of my boxes that I use it to wipe off all of my tools before they get put back in a drawer. I don't recall that I've ever had a tool rust on me while I owned it. I don't let my tools get wet if I can help it and if I did need to for some reason I'd still make sure they are clean and dry before they get put back up.

Evaporust and T9 are ny go to products as well. I use T9 on all my cast iron tables: band saw,drill press, jointer. I spray T9 on, let it dry and wipe off the excess. Lasts a long time.

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[jeff000]

I've used Evaporust many times to get the rust off any used tools I acquire that need a little cleaning up and it works really well. I bought a gallon a couple years ago that I keep in a bucket with a lid to reuse.

As far as keeping tools from rusting I always keep a rag that gets an occasional spritz with Boeshield T-9 hanging on the side of my boxes that I use it to wipe off all of my tools before they get put back in a drawer. I don't recall that I've ever had a tool rust on me while I owned it. I don't let my tools get wet if I can help it and if I did need to for some reason I'd still make sure they are clean and dry before they get put back up.

As much as I would love to make sure they never get wet or rust it's just not in the cards. I use them outside in all weather for my work.
I'll have to try and find some T9, I had been using some wax spray stuff, but it makes everything nasty.

Remove the rust then cold blue it?
Ive never used cold blue but i think its similar to anodizing and impregnates the surface of the material with oil or some kind of corrosion resistant something..

Would cold blue work to hold off rust for a while?
I mean if I sprayed it with cold galvanizing would it be that bad? lol

 

[G-ManBart]

Would cold blue work to hold off rust for a while?
I mean if I sprayed it with cold galvanizing would it be that bad? lol

Not really. Cold bluing is mostly a coloring process that offers little to no protection to the metal. It's generally used as a touch-up for purely cosmetic purposes and the metal still needs to be protected with some sort of oil/grease/paste to prevent corrosion.

 

[6PTsocket]

As much as I would love to make sure they never get wet or rust it's just not in the cards. I use them outside in all weather for my work.
I'll have to try and find some T9, I had been using some wax spray stuff, but it makes everything nasty.



Would cold blue work to hold off rust for a while?
I mean if I sprayed it with cold galvanizing would it be that bad? lol

Spray galvanizing is zinc in some type of paint carrier. It is not that abraison resistant. It is fine for touching up a fence or a cabinet but not for tools

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[6PTsocket]

As much as I would love to make sure they never get wet or rust it's just not in the cards. I use them outside in all weather for my work.
I'll have to try and find some T9, I had been using some wax spray stuff, but it makes everything nasty.



Would cold blue work to hold off rust for a while?
I mean if I sprayed it with cold galvanizing would it be that bad? lol

If you don't like waxy you may not like T9. It is some waxy substance in a spray solvent. When the solvent evaporates the remaining coating is pretty sticky but good for storing an item. I use it on drill press and band saw tables. After it dries it can be rubbed down to a harder non sticky film that protects well. I would use it on a chain wrench but would not expect to get excess wiped off like on a flat surface. Starret makes a similar product. I think it is called A1. Maybe not as waxy.

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[ToddW]

Evaporust is awesome.

If you put in around a pound of small black oxide bolts for 48 hours, shake them around, take them out and do whatever you want with them... then use the same evaporust liquid again on your next tools not only will they come out rust free they'll have a nice coating of black oxide on them too which has lasted much longer at preventing rust than just straight out of evaporust.

I learned the above on accident, but took advantage of it until I ran out of the evaporust that had been treated with the black oxidie from the bolts.

Also spraying lanolin on anything out of evaporust works too, but the smell may get to you depending how/where you store it.