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Removing rust from NOS ratchet?

Applesauce

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I just bought a new-old-stock Proto 4757 1/4" flex head, and unfortunately it has a few small rust spots. I'm soaking it in vinegar and salt right now, but I'm curious: will a wire-brushing wheel damage the chrome? Are chrome platings generally hard enough not to get super scratched up from a bench-mounter wire-brush wheel?
 
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jjjrmx5

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I just bought a new-old-stock Proto 4757 1/4" flex head, and unfortunately it has a few small rust spots. I'm soaking it in vinegar and salt right now, but I'm curious: will a wire-brushing wheel damage the chrome? Are chrome platings generally hard enough not to get super scratched up from a bench-mounter wire-brush wheel?

For me wire wheel or wire brush will scratch chrome.
Even the toughest.

ScotchBrite pad is my choice at max.
Or brass wool.

Brass brush for crevices if necessary.

I usaully quick soak (in Evaporust)and then do wd-40 with brass wool or scotch brite gently if some pitting.

If no pitting I use rubbing compound and then finesse-it compound.

I see tools no differently than chrome bumpers or old chromed wheels on 60's and 70's era bicycles..

Use teh gentlest means necessary to get where you need to be and then move up to buffing and a wax.
 
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tweedlestan

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First of all, GET IT OUT OF THE SALT AND VINEGAR BATH. Rinse it thoroughly.

Second, OOOO steel wool will take care of small rust spots.

Third, coat liberally with oil.
 

CWP1616L

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If you have a bench mounted grinder, a ScotchBrite wheel is the way to go. You can take rusted steel and make it almost look like chrome with those wheels. Save the wire wheel for cleaning bolt threads.
 
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Applesauce

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I usaully quick soak (in Evaporust)and then do wd-40 with brass wool or scotch brite gently if some pitting...
I see tools no differently than chrome bumpers or old chromed wheels on 60's and 70's era bicycles..

Hmmm...hadn't thought of it like that. Makes sense! And I didn't think it was serious enough to warrant going out and buying something special...

First of all, GET IT OUT OF THE SALT AND VINEGAR BATH. Rinse it thoroughly.

Really?! I thought I had read of this technique on these very boards... What's the big deal about it? (And yeah: I was planning to rinse it thoroughly.)

Of course I'll oil it after all this. I just haven't lived anywhere where there was a rust problem in fifteen years... I just don't know my way around rust! I'll see if I can get into the knurling with Scotch-Brite.
 

tweedlestan

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Really?! I thought I had read of this technique on these very boards... What's the big deal about it? (And yeah: I was planning to rinse it thoroughly.)

Of course I'll oil it after all this. I just haven't lived anywhere where there was a rust problem in fifteen years... I just don't know my way around rust! I'll see if I can get into the knurling with Scotch-Brite.

Yes, you have to be extremely picky about how long you leave it in the vinegar. It QUICKLY eats the chrome off and starts pitting the steel.
 

jakemac

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CLR is gentler on chrome than ER or vinegar. It's formulated to eat rust and lime on chrome plumbing fixtures without harming the chrome unless left in too long (days). It's safe working time (for chrome) is much longer than other rust removers, but it is slower as well. For this purpose, that's a good thing. I usually drop chrome items in before bed, then take them out and rinse in the morning.
 

scaron

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ai ai ai. have you considered just a little bit of elbow grease and some common polishing compound? should remove minor surface rust no problem and it'll do the chrome up real nice to boot.
 
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devoncoolman

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The vinegar will eat the chrome right off. Especially if its got a pin hole in it where it can get under the chrome and lift it. Seen it happen to cheaper tools with thin chrome. Just use a brass wire brush and call it a day.
 

crankshaftdan II

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As previously stated here by others-NO SALT with the vinegar. The vinegar bath is fine if you control the time element-In at night before bed and out & rinsed off with cold water and check the rust spots. If the rust is still present-do a second round with 1/2 the time in bath. If this is a on going process your container of vinegar bath will lose some of its acidic effect with the rust particles left in suspension and what also settles to the bottom of the container. One can strain the effulent from the liquid by straining thru a ***** hose and re-top off with fresh vinegar to obtain the freshest concentration. I use APPLE Cider type which seems to be 1/2 way between evapo-rust and regular WHITE vinegar, which is the cheapest. Never ate all the finish off any tools-unless I forget to take them out for a week!! This is a art form-use it wisely and frequently and you will master it just like bike mechanic's tectniques:beer:
 

Canoe50

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Feb 8, 2012
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Rochester, NY
I've used Evaporust on some chrome plated tools after reading about it here & it worked great. Not a bit of rust anywhere. That's what I'd go with, as mentioned earlier in another post.
 

DrivewayDave

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May 16, 2013
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Northern CALIF
Anyone have any experience using citric acid, 5 lbs online at ebay for $17. Read a little goes along way & supposedly the least harmful of any method? Naval Jelly & ER worked well for the real badly rusted tools that I've used them on. Naval Jelly is quite toxic & will irritate your skin if you get any on you. $5/small bottle but works quick & well. Feedback appreciated on the citric acid, thanks!
 

2oolhound

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Glad you got it sorted. I've had some very expensive wrenches de-chromed by soaking in vinegar. It goes into the rust and works it's way along under the chrome. Lesson learned.
 

skruft

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May 9, 2011
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I am not fussy. It all depends. If it is minor surface rust on a quality, plated tool, my usual method has been to use medium fine steel wool or Scotchbrite and either slow drying solvent or any kind of oil. If it is more that that, I do different things.

If it is a rough tool that is for rough use, say, a pipe wrench, there is no reason to be gentle.

To me a vinegar bath is mainly for something in poor shape and/or rusted together.
 
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