Removing stair balusters so taper can mud
- Thread starter branimal
- Start date
jar944
Well-known member
You can't easily, they will be dovetailed into the treads. The dovetails will be covered by the outer moulding
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If the balusters are just in a mortise, you could remove the hand rail then the balusters. But removing the hand rail may involve a sawzall
jar944
Well-known member
jar944
Well-known member
If you check the price of a replacement in that victorian era profile with wreath and easings you would keep the sawsall far away
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
IMO, you might as well remove them with a hammer then
larry4406
Well-known member
Maybe cut that drywall out.
Replace it with a much larger section chosen to move the seams to an accessible area.
Then you can leave the rail alone.
Replace it with a much larger section chosen to move the seams to an accessible area.
Then you can leave the rail alone.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
Surely if someone was able to mud and tape that, sanding with the right kind of custom device should be doable.
That's my thoughts too. Put a full sheet behind the balusters. Even if it means a couple extra seams somewhere else that's easier to get to
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
At this point I'd mud and sand, looks like it's only a few feet. Going to be a little more work than a nice flat are but not impossible.
I'd be more careful with the mud, even if it meant thinner layers and extra "coats".
I'd be more careful with the mud, even if it meant thinner layers and extra "coats".
If you take the rail off, it will probably give the guy enough room to work around the balusters without removing them.
My 1850s staircase just had one big screw into each end of the rail, and one support in the center where it passed by the floor beam. So 3 screws. And maybe every other baluster had a square nail on a 45* into the bottom of the rail. They either pulled out or broke off pretty easily.
I left the baluster nails out of mine when reinstalling the rail so I can take the rail back off easily. It's the only way to get a box spring up the stairs, lol.
My 1850s staircase just had one big screw into each end of the rail, and one support in the center where it passed by the floor beam. So 3 screws. And maybe every other baluster had a square nail on a 45* into the bottom of the rail. They either pulled out or broke off pretty easily.
I left the baluster nails out of mine when reinstalling the rail so I can take the rail back off easily. It's the only way to get a box spring up the stairs, lol.
Renegade1LI
Well-known member
I've had good luck with a small bottle jack and gently push them apart.
Your taper is just being lazy . it can be done , it will take some time & finagling .
but, if he's instant, and you don't want to tape it before you start pulling apart the balusters & railings, I would cut out that section of drywall and put a pc in that doesn't need tape & just needs the screws filled .
and, he has a big *** bubble in the tape too
but, if he's instant, and you don't want to tape it before you start pulling apart the balusters & railings, I would cut out that section of drywall and put a pc in that doesn't need tape & just needs the screws filled .
and, he has a big *** bubble in the tape too
CraigStu
Well-known member
The condition it is in I'd be considering whether I want to replace that railing anyway. After the drywall gets fixed there is a ton of sanding needed to make the railing look nice and you have to do some of that sanding where the rail is just inches away from the new drywall.
Old Moparz
Well-known member
I wouldn't touch them, you're asking for headaches & the repairs to the balusters will be more annoying than the wall area you want fixed. It's such a small area I'd take the time to work around the balusters.
Question....
Who did the tape & mud in the photo?
I'm asking because it looks pretty poor. No offense to you are anyone else but if that's the quality expected I definitely would not remove the railing & go through all that work. I see a lot of guys tape & mud who almost NEVER need to sand anything.
Question....
Who did the tape & mud in the photo?
I'm asking because it looks pretty poor. No offense to you are anyone else but if that's the quality expected I definitely would not remove the railing & go through all that work. I see a lot of guys tape & mud who almost NEVER need to sand anything.
jar944
Well-known member
As long as the op is ok with this
And not what's currently there
3 lobe rail with an octagonal turned newl was a common victorian design. It's not readily available now unless you have it custom made from millwork shop.
Paying someone to scrape and refinish what's currently there will be cheaper than any correct replacement short of the 6010 rail above and some generic balusters to go with it.
I'm in the I'd leave it alone camp. There's not much to be taped there it can be done with patience even if you tell taper to leave that section and tackle it yourself. How much of a gap do you have between handrail and wall? If there's enough room to hold handrail there's enough to tape it. Otherwise go in from sides of balusters.
Bill Bowman
Well-known member
I'd scrape/sand that garbage that's currently on the wall, and skin it with a piece of 1/4" drywall. Go out to area that's clear of the rail. You'll have a 1/4" step, but it'll sure look better than what you have. With a bit of imagination, that can become a pleasing transition area, rather than doing a bunch of demo and such.
Shiftless
Well-known member
With a box full of those Velcro attached triangular sandpaper bits and one of these multi tools, you could get that sanded smooth. Power tool and an old school rubber sanding block and you’ll be good to go.
You might have to fabricate a tool using a thin strip of wood attached to a wooden sanding block so you can go at it from the top in between the railing and the wall.
You might have to fabricate a tool using a thin strip of wood attached to a wooden sanding block so you can go at it from the top in between the railing and the wall.
the time it will take to remove the balluster, and replace it , plus the cost.. vs working with what you have is astounding . The drywall should be taped already and be ready for paint. there's no more than 15 minutes of work for each coat behind that section. 3 coats, and a sand and you're probably 1 hr tops for someone that knows how to tape .
rayra
Well-known member
Why on earth are there ballusters on the wall side, anyway. Never seen such a thing, usually just the handrail bracketed on the wall.
Because that's how it needs to be to look decent. Functionally you are right but if you just end the balusters at the wall it looks pretty half-assed
nmk_61802
Well-known member
Hate to see how he muds what he can't reach easily...
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jar944
Well-known member
Conceptually its identical to this. That wall is the 2nd floor and it's open below. I do believe there has been some re framing as the rail shouldn't have been *that* close to the wall originally
I guess you've not been in a lot of story& a half or 2 story houses?
Tom Sestito
Well-known member
Tell that gol-dang taper to go around and figure it out. Time he spent winging he'd be done already.
CraigStu
Well-known member
Ya gotta have balusters there so the kids can't fall through.
Amount of sanding required is dependant on how well mud can be applied and feathered out.
Consider a custom made semi rigid plastic "knife". Think of a windshield cleaning brush form where the bristles are actually the plastic just mentioned.
Won't be fun but at least there's a chance to get good final strokes to minimize sanding.
Consider a custom made semi rigid plastic "knife". Think of a windshield cleaning brush form where the bristles are actually the plastic just mentioned.
Won't be fun but at least there's a chance to get good final strokes to minimize sanding.
Good idea but there is still the corner cornerbead to mud in.
WHAT????
Thirdyfivepickup
Well-known member
its just a couple of feet that's hidden. Just mud it as smooth as you can and hand sand it. Won't take too long or be too much work. Hire a teenager with small hands and skinny arms...