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Removing Sticky residue?

clarkebd

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Mar 21, 2012
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So I'm in the process of building my workbench. Steel frame based. I've got everything cut and welded. Now I am trying to clean it up to get it ready for paint.

Two of the steel frame pieces (about 10 1/2 feet long), have a ton of sticky OLD super strength pull your hair out tape residue left over on the paint.

I've tried sanding off, just gums up my paper.
I've tried Goo Gone. Sh*t doesn't work - take forever.
I've tried gasoline, but damn, I need a 1/2 gallon it seems per piece and there is still some residue left.
I've tried scraping with a razor blade.

What a pain in the rear. I'd say they are about 80% clean, but any better product out there to get that last bit off, or just more elbow grease and gasoline and razor blades at this point?

I don't have a torch otherwise I would try burning it off. :)
 
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rlitman

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I would heat the goo up with a heat gun until it is about as hot as you can touch, and then try Goo Gone on a rag on it.
 

Professur

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No chance you can identify the tape? That would tell you what solvent to use. Acetone, isopropyl alcohol and MG brand adhesive remover are my top three go to products.
 

kbs2244

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Denatured alcohol or starting fluid ether

Wear rubber gloves
 

jrlp

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My go to list is denatured alcohol, then isopropyl alcohol, then acetone, then xylene then mek.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
 

purpurite

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Heat gun, pull of as much of the paper, tape or decal residue that you can then soak with WD40 and wipe clean. You need to get the decal/paper soft to make it easy to remove. A heat gun is an overlooked option, but a hairdrier works in a pinch. Do this before ANYTHING else.

Alcohols don't break down adhesives like solvents do. Rubbing alcohol is useless, as is denatured alcohol, except to clean off the WD40 when you are done.

If you aren't worried about the finish of the surface, lacquer thinner or MEK are both aggressive and hazardous options, too, when all else fails.
 

vaio76109

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"Aircraft Decal and Adhesive Remover" works the best of any adhesive removers I've used.
 
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KenS

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Oct 21, 2007
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3M Adhesive Remover. Works like a champ. Will even break down silicone. I use it all the time.

+1... kinda pricey, but well worth it. WD-40 is a lot cheaper and works well for many different types of adhesive residue. I try WD-40 first, and use the 3M as a last resort.
 

e-tek

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OP
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clarkebd

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Mar 21, 2012
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Thanks for all the tips guys! I don't know what kind of tape it was. These were old pallet racks that I cut up. I'm not worried about the finish as I'm going to spray it. I'll try WD40 tonight when I get home from work. Then I'm going to buy a freaking torch if that doesn't work.

I don't think a heat gun would work too well, as it's a 10' x 4" x 3" steel box.
 

purpurite

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Thanks for all the tips guys! I don't know what kind of tape it was. These were old pallet racks that I cut up. I'm not worried about the finish as I'm going to spray it. I'll try WD40 tonight when I get home from work. Then I'm going to buy a freaking torch if that doesn't work.

I don't think a heat gun would work too well, as it's a 10' x 4" x 3" steel box.

You'd be surprised. I have used a heat gun on just about everything to remove decals. Work in one area at a time, and it will work. If it's just residue left and the tape is gone, WD-40 and a razor blade or plastic scraper like an old credit card. You're not heating the steel, just the decal/tape.

And be very careful using a torch after WD-40... it will ignite.




There is no instant magic bullet, but if you soak the stuff with plenty of solvent/WD40, it will loosen it all up enough to scrape it clean.
 

purpurite

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second this lighter fluid just leave on for minute or 2 and will wipe off

If you go that route, Ronsonol is rather expensive for that large area usage. It's just plain VM&P Naptha that you can buy in quart containers at Home Depot in the paint department for a lot less than the lighter fluid container. Good to have around the shop, too. It is a mild solvent and works well for cleaning tools. :thumbup:
 

rlitman

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Yep, VM&P naphtha is the same as lighter fluid. Actually, Coleman fuel is pretty much the same thing too, and might even be a buck or two cheaper if you're buying by the gallon like me.

It is a pretty good sticker solvent, but I would still get the part warm before I did that.
 
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