Removing un reachable screws

[pitterpat]

I have a few screws inside a couple of cabinets that aren't easily reachable and are slotted head screws. These 3 screws hold 2 cabinets together, I want to move one of the cabinets. The screws are near the top edge of the cabinets, so there isn't a lot of room. Also, they are slotted head screws because the cabinets are from the 50's...all plywood construction. I'm having a tough time reaching them, even with a right angle attachment on my drill; the cabinet they are on the inside of is only about 12" wide, and can't get a saws-all blade in there either.
I'm looking for some "reassurance" on a possible solution. What I think is a solution is to take a hole saw and drill a hole on the opposite side, the side I can get to easily where I'm pretty sure the screws come through at. Then when the screw tip is showing, back it out using vice grips to turn it. Once more of the head is showing on the inside of the cabinet (from backing it out) I can grab that with vice grips to twist it out. No, I don't care if the cabinet I'm using the hole saw on gets ruined, I can replace the at part of the cabinet when I want to use it again.
Here's some pictures of where I think the screws should be and where I would use the hole saw bit, probably 1" or the next size up, where the red lines are and in the corner? What do you think of this idea or do you have another viable idea?

 

[The Cobbler]

can you just hole saw a plug out of the cabinet so the screw and plug pull out?

 

[BillK]

I cant seem to visualize exactly where these screws are ?? If you are going to use a hole saw, just go all the way through and punch out the plug with the screw and all like cobbler said.

 

[Farmall450]

can you just hole saw a plug out of the cabinet so the screw and plug pull out?

That's where my mind went when he said hole saw.

 

[pitterpat]

can you just hole saw a plug out of the cabinet so the screw and plug pull out?

Thanks, I could do this but the hole saw bits I have are very shallow. It also will leave a hole in the other cabinet, the one I'm keeping. Thanks for validating I'm on the right track.

 

[pitterpat]

That's where my mind went when he said hole saw.

Thanks. Yes, I could do that but the cabinet I'm keeping has a hole in it and I really don't want that..See, this is a cabinet in a kitchen (not a garage...LOL) but since it was a cabinet question I posed it here because you guys know a lot about woodworking, cabinets connected together.
Thanks for validating I'm on the right track...she says.

 

[Farmall450]

Will an OMT blade fit?

Like a more agile sawzall

 

[pitterpat]

I cant seem to visualize exactly where these screws are ?? If you are going to use a hole saw, just go all the way through and punch out the plug with the screw and all like cobbler said.

Thanks. The screws are very close to the underside of the countertop, inside one cabinet and going through another cabinet which has no countertop.
Yes, I could do that but the cabinet I'm keeping has a hole in it and I really don't want that..See, this is a cabinet in a kitchen (not a garage...LOL) but since it was a cabinet question I posed it here because you guys know a lot about woodworking, cabinets connected together.
Thanks for validating I'm on the right track

 

[pitterpat]

Will an OMT blade fit?

Like a more agile sawzall

What is an OMT blade? And these are 1950's screw....Very hard and big.

 

[Farmall450]

Oscillating multi tool. They're cut anything.

 

[nadogail]

I use an OMT to remove faucets from vanity tops.

 

[pitterpat]

Oscillating multi tool. They're cut anything.

Ok, gotcha. I have a Fien Tools one, never heard it called OMT...I've been off the forum a while.
Not sure it would fit but I don't think I have any metal cutting blades, I'll look.
That is a REALLY good idea!

 

[pitterpat]

Does it have to be specifically a metal cutting blade?

 

[Garcky]

Right angle offset screwdriver.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Can you lift the countertop?

 

[Youngandfree]

Does it have to be specifically a metal cutting blade?

Yes

 

[pitterpat]

Can you lift the countertop?

No.

 

[pitterpat]

Yes

Metal cutting blade...I have one but it's just a general one, not a heavy duty one. I tried with it and it barely made a dent in one of the screws. I'll get one tomorrow.

 

[DGersic]

I have a few screws inside a couple of cabinets that aren't easily reachable and are slotted head screws. These 3 screws hold 2 cabinets together, I want to move one of the cabinets. The screws are near the top edge of the cabinets, so there isn't a lot of room. Also, they are slotted head screws because the cabinets are from the 50's...all plywood construction. I'm having a tough time reaching them, even with a right angle attachment on my drill; the cabinet they are on the inside of is only about 12" wide, and can't get a saws-all blade in there either.
I'm looking for some "reassurance" on a possible solution. What I think is a solution is to take a hole saw and drill a hole on the opposite side, the side I can get to easily where I'm pretty sure the screws come through at. Then when the screw tip is showing, back it out using vice grips to turn it. Once more of the head is showing on the inside of the cabinet (from backing it out) I can grab that with vice grips to twist it out. No, I don't care if the cabinet I'm using the hole saw on gets ruined, I can replace the at part of the cabinet when I want to use it again.
Here's some pictures of where I think the screws should be and where I would use the hole saw bit, probably 1" or the next size up, where the red lines are and in the corner? What do you think of this idea or do you have another viable idea?

Faced a similar problem a couple weeks ago. Needed to remove two screws (phillips head, drywall type screws) that were used to build a block to mount the top 90* fitting on the shower head riser. The heads faces the back side of the shower tile wall.

I used a 1” hole saw to remove the wood around the screw, on the piece closest to me, then backed out the remains with a vice grip on the pointy side.

 

[The Cobbler]

screw are quite hard, not easily cut with blades .

 

[Stuart in MN]

Right angle offset screwdriver.

Yes, one of these. Most any hardware store or big box store should have them.

 

[Zeus36]

 

[Monza Harry]

Can you use an extension and bit? The further away the less the angle will be. I'm painfully aware of how difficult the slotted screw thing can be. 2-3 turns and you will be in the Vise-Grip range you are considering. Harry
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0B1V6YKRP/?tag=atomicindus04-20
I have an older version by "Irwin" and LOVE them!

 

[Wolley]

Sharp chisel and a hammer. Sacrifice the cabinet your not using. Cut chop as needed. It's a old plywood cabinet, your not losing anything. Build a new one when you need it.

 

[Joe Reed]

A ratcheting offset screwdriver would be better than the one shown in post #21. Assuming you have enough room in the cabinet, how about using a drill/driver with a very long extension (18-24") and a screwdriver bit?

 

[welder4956]

I have used screwdriver bits with a 1/4" 6 point socket and 1/4" drive ratchet with good success in tight spots.

 

[pitterpat]

I got 2 of the 3 out by using the hole saw drill bit. The 3rd is in the very back corner wedged in the corner. I'm not going to destroy the cabinet but I'll try to hammer it out. Pics

 

[The Bean]

Yikes. How is this correct?

 

[dogdog]

the yellow circle squiggly thing is just treated as nail, use needle nose vise grip and pull it out or rock it out... those were used to joint two piece of wood together from the surface... I have used them. They used to sell them on hardware stores... now less popular.

the one in red looks like old style screws and it is screwed in from the other side, maybe use a vise grip and back it out and see where it appears on the other side.

 

[alinc100]

Corrugated fastener. Very easy to use. Judging by your cabinets they were built on site,in place.

 

[pitterpat]

Corrugated fastener. Very easy to use. Judging by your cabinets they were built on site,in place.

Yes they were built onsite...1950's house. Real wood cabinets.

the yellow circle squiggly thing is just treated as nail, use needle nose vise grip and pull it out or rock it out... those were used to joint two piece of wood together from the surface... I have used them. They used to sell them on hardware stores... now less popular.

the one in red looks like old style screws and it is screwed in from the other side, maybe use a vise grip and back it out and see where it appears on the other side.

Yeah the squiggly thing isn't a problem. And I did cut the screw off between the cabinets with my osillating tool.

 

[pitterpat]

It is done. I finally got that screw out in the very back corner; broke the top rail accidentally but I can fix it. Thank goodness that problem is solved. In this 1950's house there is ALWAYS something that crops up that you have to jigger it around to get around the problem.
Thanks to everyone.

 

[Farmall450]

Does it have to be specifically a metal cutting blade?

metal or bi-metal

 

[pitterpat]

Sharp chisel and a hammer. Sacrifice the cabinet your not using. Cut chop as needed. It's a old plywood cabinet, your not losing anything. Build a new one when you need it.

No, even though it is "a old plywood cabinet, your not using" it is better constructed than a lot of the cabinets out there today. Still very useful.

 

[The Cobbler]

Yikes. How is this correct?

was a very common fastener at one time . nothing wrong with that at all

 

[619DioFan]

It is done. I finally got that screw out in the very back corner; broke the top rail accidentally but I can fix it. Thank goodness that problem is solved. In this 1950's house there is ALWAYS something that crops up that you have to jigger it around to get around the problem.
Thanks to everyone.

My house was built in 1900 , I feel your pain. My place needs a new , complete foundation , does not have a slab. I will probably have to sell a kidney and my spleen to afford it.

 

[no704]

Can’t be tight if it’s liquid!