Renovating my garage

[WhiteLightning]

Hey all. I'm looking to get some input on renovating a garage. We moved into our house 2.5 years ago. Since then, its become full of tools, landscaping stuff, etc. We plan to get a shed this spring to move all the landscaping stuff into. That will give me some more elbow room to really get the garage set up how I want it.

I am thinking that is the time to dig in and renovate it. Planned projects:
-Re-wiring the electric- replacing old romex with new, adding circuits/receptacles, lighting, etc.
-Insulating the exterior walls
-Drywall
-Paint
-Flooring? I posted a poll in another thread regarding flooring options

With peoples past experiences, can you lend any advice on what to do first/last/etc? Any tips on how to tackle it?

I'll post a sketch of the garage with measurements later on. Its a 1.5 bay garage. One bay is the full depth of the house, one bay is half the depth of the house. My sports car resides in the full bay with storage, and my workshop is the half bay. With it being so full, I imagine the renovation process will be tricky/fun. LOL.

 

[rburke65]

Well I would think you would run any piping or duct work first, then the wiring, insulation, wall coverings, paint or ?, finish wiring....plugs, etc. Much like you would build a house. Good luck.

 

[rsanter]

Install one or two quality drop cords. That will greatly reduce the need for outlets on the walls.
I had gotten to hate putting a bunch of outlets on the walls because they always seem to get covered by a shelf or toolbox

Bob

 

[QwikKotaTx]

Install one or two quality drop cords. That will greatly reduce the need for outlets on the walls.
I had gotten to hate putting a bunch of outlets on the walls because they always seem to get covered by a shelf or toolbox

Bob

Are you referring to extension cords? Outlets on the ceiling would be good advice if that is how you are talking about using the cords.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I am thinking that is the time to dig in and renovate it. Planned projects:
-Re-wiring the electric- replacing old romex with new, adding circuits/receptacles, lighting, etc.
-Insulating the exterior walls
-Drywall
-Paint
-Flooring? I posted a poll in another thread regarding flooring options

With peoples past experiences, can you lend any advice on what to do first/last/etc? Any tips on how to tackle it?

First to last, if there is something on the exterior walls, you'll need to remove that first. Then mount your new boxes, run wire to the outlets and switches.

Once that is done, insulate the walls, drywall, finish it and paint it.

I'd do the floor last that way you really don't have to worry about screwing up the new floor finish with a can of spilled something.

 

[nolimits76]

NUTTSGT hit the nail on the head on the sequence. Basically you want to do all the "guts" first and then do the pretty stuff last.

I am curious -- does your current garage have drywall in-place? If so, have you considered using blown-in-wall insulation? You have to cut small holes to place the hose so you can insulate, but that is fairly minor. The major advantage is it would save you from removing old drywall and replacing/taping/mudding/finishing with new drywall in all areas except that you need to expose for new piping and/or plumbing.

http://www.hometips.com/diy-how-to/blow-wall-insulation.html

If you don't have drywall now, then it's a moot point. But you could go with a BIBS insulation. I did this on a new house I built several years ago. The concept is the same as with existing walls, except you install a thin fiber mesh to hold the insulation until you install the drywall.

Lastly, if you are going to renovate your space and open up walls, etc be sure to think about your needs now and also in the future. For instance, maybe adding air lines would be something you want? Or maybe a sink or toilet? Maybe 220v for an air compressor, welder and/or lift?

Think it through and do it right...once.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

Lots of unknowns and variables based on your original post. A few thoughts:

If you need to continue keeping items in the area while doing the renovation, plan on doing one wall at a time with respect to wiring, insulation and sheetrock. When all that is done, you can then tackle the painting.

If your electrical panel is not in this space, install a subpanel to work from.

Install your outlets about 54 inches above the floor - use 20 amp circuits with the exception of special needs like a welder.

Have fun.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

I too did the blow in insulation in my old finished garage after cutting 3" holes at the top of each bay. It was pretty easy and you can hear the motor on the blower get louder when the bay is full. That plus blowing in over head made a huge difference with the heat of summer. A garage doesn't really need picture perfect drywall or walls for the matter unless you are trying to win a GJ contest. If the drywall can be patched in places it will save you tons of time.

 

[rsanter]

Are you referring to extension cords? Outlets on the ceiling would be good advice if that is how you are talking about using the cords.

Yes, the retractable ones
I have several and love them. I rairly plug intot he wall anymore unless it's something that will stay there plugged in.
Craftsman has some nice ones that go on sale that are a drop reel cord that you can plug a drop light into ( comes with it)
I paid about $80 each for mine. Don't buy the really cheapie $30 ones, they are ****.

Same deal with an air hose if you have a compressor.
Install a couple of the hose reels, one in front of the car and one near the garage door opening
In my 3 car garage I had two in the front. One between each bay.


Bob

 

[WhiteLightning]

Install one or two quality drop cords

I plan to get at least one of these.

First to last, if there is something on the exterior walls, you'll need to remove that first. Then mount your new boxes, run wire to the outlets and switches. Once that is done, insulate the walls, drywall, finish it and paint it. I'd do the floor last that way you really don't have to worry about screwing up the new floor finish with a can of spilled something.

Noted.

I am curious -- does your current garage have drywall in-place? If so, have you considered using blown-in-wall insulation? You have to cut small holes to place the hose so you can insulate, but that is fairly minor. The major advantage is it would save you from removing old drywall and replacing/taping/mudding/finishing with new drywall in all areas except that you need to expose for new piping and/or plumbing.

If you don't have drywall now, then it's a moot point. But you could go with a BIBS insulation. I did this on a new house I built several years ago. The concept is the same as with existing walls, except you install a thin fiber mesh to hold the insulation until you install the drywall.

Lastly, if you are going to renovate your space and open up walls, etc be sure to think about your needs now and also in the future. For instance, maybe adding air lines would be something you want? Maybe 220v for an air compressor, welder and/or lift?

Think it through and do it right...once.

Thanks for the tips. The garage has a mix of existing drywall and peg board. For the exterior walls, I want to remove the drywall, install bat insulation, moisture barrier, and new drywall. I would consider blow in insulation for the 'interior' walls of the garage.

Good advice on thinking ahead. I'd surely add 110v or 220v for a future 60gallon compressor. Not too sure on air lines....will have to think about that one.

Lots of unknowns and variables based on your original post. A few thoughts:

If you need to continue keeping items in the area while doing the renovation, plan on doing one wall at a time with respect to wiring, insulation and sheetrock. When all that is done, you can then tackle the painting.

If your electrical panel is not in this space, install a subpanel to work from.

It's either go 'all out' and do most/all of each bay area at once........or do what you said- wall by wall. And yes, the electrical panel is in the garage.


I will make a sketch later with dimensions and all.

 

[WhiteLightning]

Sketch of garage......

 

[nolimits76]

It's either go 'all out' and do most/all of each bay area at once........or do what you said- wall by wall. And yes, the electrical panel is in the garage.

Personally I'd rent one of the on-site metal storage units and load all your **** in one until done w/ the remodel. It's ugly, but otherwise a good fit for security, budget and allowing unrestricted access inside your garage. Fighting w/ yourself by continually moving stuff will get old. Not to mention if you do all the sanding, etc of sheetrock you will have dust everywhere and on everything.

In regards to electrical I think you misunderstood the original question. It's normal (at least in this vicinity) to have the electrical panel located in the garage. A dedicated subpanel would allow you to move all your garage related circuits from the main house panel to a dedicated panel for just the garage.

The subpanel is a good idea as many of the panels they install for the main house will be full, or near full, and won't allow much expansion room (unless the contractor or original owner had the foresight to oversize the main panel).

I did this at another house, and was lucky to have an electrician buddy to help. I won't pretend to be an electrician but what he did seemed "hairy" to me and we've worked on several projects together before. If you aren't good at electrical, or have an experienced friend, then I would hire this part out. Not only do you have to wire things correctly, but you need to be able to calculate load volume, etc. Granted there are some really knowledgeable electrical guys here that could probably walk you through a lot of it -- it just depends on your comfort level I guess.

 

[WhiteLightning]

My house panel is a 42 circuit, 200amp load center. I work for a commerical electrical contractor.....so I am good on that front. There are still several circuits available for use. The house, stepping sideways, will be re-wired in the next 5-10 years as well.

I will keep the storage unit in mind.

 

[nolimits76]

Given your electrical contractor status, I'd rewire the entire garage now so you can avoid messing with it in 5-10 years. Despite having extra breakers, it'd be nice to have a dedicated subpanel for your garage/shop and I'd plan for all sorts of goodies including internet wiring, sound wiring for speakers, etc. I'm sure you realize at this stage, whatever you can plan now will be pennies compared to doing later.

Also many guys find the Liftmaster 8500 garage door opener to be preferred. With low ceilings you might also benefit. It requires some electrical work as well.

 

[WhiteLightning]

Given your electrical contractor status, I'd rewire the entire garage now so you can avoid messing with it in 5-10 years. Despite having extra breakers, it'd be nice to have a dedicated subpanel for your garage/shop and I'd plan for all sorts of goodies including internet wiring, sound wiring for speakers, etc. I'm sure you realize at this stage, whatever you can plan now will be pennies compared to doing later.

Also many guys find the Liftmaster 8500 garage door opener to be preferred. With low ceilings you might also benefit. It requires some electrical work as well.

Exactly. My original post says 're-wire garage and add circuits if needed'. Here are some original pictures from when we first moved in. Don't mind the mess.....

And more recent pics of my 'clutter'. Like I said, a shed will be a tremendous help! And a few shelving units are in store........

 

[nolimits76]

I thought you said a sports car -- that's just a Firebird, lol. Just kidding.

I will say this -- you are a man of patience. I couldn't have worked in that mint green colored space, lol.

The pictures are helpful, it helps see some of the obstacles. For instance, the duct pipe and what appears to be a gas line you have across the ceiling and walls. While you are tearing everything out, I would definitely relocate those behind the walls and in the attic space. If the vent pipe won't fit in between the wall studs I'd still do a chase to hide it. Any little bit you can gain will be helpful as you have limited width and ceiling height.

Speaking of your ceiling height, have you considered making any changes to gain extra height? Maybe something as simple as a box ceiling, or possibly a modified french vault?

With a boxed ceiling you could create some unique can lighting opportunities on the "ledge" at 7'6". And with either the boxed ceiling or french vault (on the top flat part) you might have room to install a heater for your garage (noticed you were in Philly).

Really check out the Liftmaster 8500. It would free up some head room in your current setup and I think would be worthwhile.

 

[WhiteLightning]

I thought you said a sports car -- that's just a Firebird, lol. Just kidding.

I will say this -- you are a man of patience. I couldn't have worked in that mint green colored space, lol.

The pictures are helpful, it helps see some of the obstacles. For instance, the duct pipe and what appears to be a gas line you have across the ceiling and walls. While you are tearing everything out, I would definitely relocate those behind the walls and in the attic space. If the vent pipe won't fit in between the wall studs I'd still do a chase to hide it. Any little bit you can gain will be helpful as you have limited width and ceiling height.

Speaking of your ceiling height, have you considered making any changes to gain extra height?

you might have room to install a heater for your garage (noticed you were in Philly).

-It's just a Trans Am, nothing fancy

-I really wasn't in 'Garage Journal' mode back when we bought the house. In hindsight, I would have done all this initially, but money was tight then.

-I plan to relocate the dryer vent out the back and will potentially build a soffit to hide it. The gas line will remain as-is.

-Above the garage and half bay are three (3) bedrooms. No room to raise anything. I just want to get new/better insulation in the joists and new drywall up.

-My garage temperature isn't too bad actually. It's typically 55F-60F in there (due to heat loss of the house ), while being 20+ degrees colder outside. I have a thermometer that reads inside and outside temps- shown below. If it was 50F or colder in there I would purchase an electric ceiling mounted fan forced heater.