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renovation vs destruction

M-technik-3

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as well as addition. I have a 26x24 with 1x4 stick built trusses and it frightens me to keep my E30 M3 and my E36 M3 and modified street car in this but I do. I am debating taking all the siding off and the sistering 2x6 to the existing walls then adding proper insulation and then the following year doing new trusses.

My town has the most absurd zoning rules. I need to keep one wall original, has anyone done something like this idea? My property is small at .4 of acre and odd shaped and the town shays you can't have more than 50% improved space.

I really want to add a 12 feet to the back for a lit bay for storage and ability to work on my cars. Town says no because they don't want me running business, some $%^tard put it in their head I was running a Russian Chop shop...harassment and cease and desist and headaches. I am 3 feet shy of set back rules so I could apply for a variance, heck my house is 2 feet from property line so I should get it just for that.
 
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M-technik-3

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Inside of garage is R13 batts with drywall rather go outboard to not loose space inside. I could do them inside that would work fine.

HOA is just nosey in winter when trees are bare and not planning to move soon as I like my neighbors plus I will be finishing CNC school soon and there are many job opportunities. I have been here now for 12 years and have remodeled the inside of the house to one floor living but has a second floor master suite with it's own bath. I know that I over improved it in some areas but overall I would make a profit when or if time to sell.
 

KEH

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sound like you were wise to do your major remodeling inside away from prying eyes.

KEH
 
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M-technik-3

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Yes my house is very modest from outside but nice onside it was a utter nightmare and renovations were done strictly in cash debt did not become a nightmare.
 

Falcon67

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I am 3 feet shy of set back rules so I could apply for a variance, heck my house is 2 feet from property line so I should get it just for that.

Primary criteria for a variance will be if someone else (or several elses) have done it already. The first car port in a neighborhood with no car ports is a *****. After that, the zoning board has set the precedent which makes it hard to deny the next request.

If you are worried about the trusses, I would sister those and not bother with the walls for now. If the width is 24', then 2x10 or 2x12 doug fir will work for joists. Add 2x6 rafters and you're done, the old trusses won;t have anything to do. And all done inside.

On the back, put it a nice slab, then put in a roof - extend a gable or maybe just a "lean to" style off the back. A few nice 4x4 posts, table, chairs and a BBQ cooker. Nothing out of the ordinary, just a patio for your R&R. Plant some nice bushes on the HOA side so they'll quit staring at you. When the bushes leaf out, wall that side off. To keep out the rain/sun. Later, you'll have to do the other end for same. And then the back end...
 
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M-technik-3

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Good ideas there Chris thanks, I will still need to get permits and they most likely will hold a meeting that I know won't change.
 

u2slow

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I would not chance even partial demolition of the non-conforming structure. Variance applications can backfire. JMHO.

I agree with Falcon67 for improving and slowly adding onto the building on the down-low.
 

Bretny

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Baring the extension I would sister up the wall studs like you want and not tell anyone. Away from eyes is fair game to me.
 

nadogail

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I strongly suggest you pull a permit to remodel. After you finish the remodel, having left one of the existing walls standing, you will now have four existing walls and good trusses.

To modify the old existing wall to match the other three while "bringing it up to code" is a possible work around.

Having your work permitted and inspected will help you when you resell the property.
 

Dumber than lumber

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I would be very unwilling to do this work without a permit. All kinds of implications: insurance, zoning, code enforcement, snitty neighbors.
I really hate how bureaucrats have this kind of power over taxpayers. But skipping a permit is pretty high risk for this kind of project IMO.
 
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johnnyradiant

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If you keep the structure I can imagine based on your roof structure and what I have seen of some old buildings, that the outer shell of siding may be integral to holding everything in line so take a close look that those bones don't need the skin to stay standing. You may have to work from the inside first or do it from the outside but do it in sections of sistered studs and some sheathing before moving on to the next section.
 

yeldogt

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Correct information -- That's the key. Understand what you are allowed to do and how it must be done ... there is no other way. Most populated areas have "crazy zoning" ... and the easiest thing for any bureaucrat to say is "no".

It's like a flow chart. I want to do X .... you can't ... Why? Well -- what if I do this? Go down the list .. sometimes local officials will provide solutions to some of the questions.

Sometimes you end up having to ask a pro (land use attorney) what's it all about and how to get through the mess.

Having to partially rebuild a structure when it would be logical to demolish ... is unfortunately not all that odd. Quark of existing structure laws.

Also -- properly built your garage may be fine. Be very careful removing parts of it -- there were companies around years ago that sold "kits" .... they whole structure is engineered and need the sheathing on the walls to work.
 
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M-technik-3

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It's got vinyl over ? Not sure what's underneath it but when it boils down to starting it will be take off say 8 feet at a time and replace sheathing just so it does not bow and collapse.

I will be getting a permit I don't need a fine .
 

pbon

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They may be collar ties, not trusses; if so, 1x4 may be OK especially if 16” on center. At one of our houses, we have a 20x20 garage with 1x4 true dimension collar ties spaced about 48” apart. I do plan to convert the double doors to a 16’ single door and will change to 2x6 ties at maybe 32” spacing then. It’s been there probably 80 years and is not much out of square. I will use cables to get it right when I do this work.
 

Falcon67

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I concur on the remodel permit process - wasn't intending to insinuate end running that process. I do it hear - it's easy and around here, asking for a permit sets you apart because nobody else does it LOL. Just be careful and get your hands on the written limits of what you can do in a "remodel", and get/review the HOA docs too, just in case. Use a strictly non-confrontational approach. You have a neglected structure that is still safe and you'd like to keep it that way and make sure it maintains its appearance and integrity. Don't use the words "shop", "car repair", etc. You own some expensive vehicles and you want the building to be safe and secure. And a nice patio on the back. ;)
 
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M-technik-3

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I'm not in that HOA they just abut my property and it's a volunteer one at that! Basically bunch of busy bodies causing issues.

If I could do it without worrying about getting pinched by code enforcer I surely would. I think my plan of attack is renovate then might try getting addition added. Just need one more bay that way I can keep my John Deere's and a car in the overflow. I don't even plan to put a driveway back to it.
 

Lassen Forge

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I've seen a lot of fire rebuilds that had this same requirement - as long as x feet of the original wall and one corner remain intact it's considered a remodel, not new construction. We had one like that around the corner from our old house that sat there for years until the rebuild started - it was (lightly) attached to the remaining exterior walls and corner (along the back side of the house), and when (no surprise) the corner had deteriorated beyond structural ability, it was rebuilt, ending up with a new home on a "remodel"...
 

bob15

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Town says no because they don't want me running business, some $%^tard put it in their head I was running a Russian Chop shop...harassment and cease and desist and headaches. I am 3 feet shy of set back rules so I could apply for a variance, heck my house is 2 feet from property line so I should get it just for that.


Let me guess: Agawam or West Springfield?
 

bob15

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Westfield....

Close......When you said the russians, it reminded me of a couple co-workers I had that had issues with as the one called it, the russian mob that was moving in and screwing up good neighborhoods in Agawan and West Springfield. I guess they've spread out some. Maybe it's time to move further west into Blandford. :lol_hitti

Good-luck with dealing with the neighbors :beer:
 

u2slow

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Be careful with pursuing legit routes (permits & such) with non-conforming buildings. Sometimes its best to let sleeping dogs lie. Getting the building department's unwanted attention can be a slippery slope.

YMMV.
 
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M-technik-3

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Close......When you said the russians, it reminded me of a couple co-workers I had that had issues with as the one called it, the russian mob that was moving in and screwing up good neighborhoods in Agawan and West Springfield. I guess they've spread out some. Maybe it's time to move further west into Blandford. :lol_hitti

Good-luck with dealing with the neighbors :beer:

Had two house two years ago. This one and one in Granville same thing as Blandford but a bit less populated. She took that one... If I could find town with Municipal utilities and decent tax rates and street gas, i'd consider moving.
 
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