Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

[Spudland_Dave]

Recently scored another lot of the Herman Miller Meridian Commercial/Industrial cabinets...very heavy duty, biggest issue is the "Office Tan" color. I'd like to repaint them a more garage/shop friendly color but they have a texture on them similar to what's on a refrigerator, I think that's un-sandable No "NEED" to repaint them, the factory finish is excellent, so no chips/peeling/etc to worry about. I'd just like to shoot em SnapOn or MAC Red and call it a day. I assume a Self Etch Primer might do the trick? Something else?
OR should I just plan on living with this color?

 

[Nostalgic Dave]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

Etching primer may work, but is an extra expense. I bet even with a texture, you could scuff the paint with some gray scotchbrite, then wipe down with wax/grease remover and shoot your color.


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[allinon72]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

Scuff, prime, paint, call it a day.

 

[Outlawmws]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

Scuff, prime, paint, call it a day.

 

[Nostalgic Dave]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

Don't need to prime if the original paint is as good as the open says. If any bare metal is showing, spot prime.


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[jakemac]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

The primer is to bond the new paint to the old paint/enamel. Not just for rust prevention.

Scuff and prime it.

 

[cmorr]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

I thought you only used self-etching primer on bare metal.

As others mentioned I would scuff, spot prime and paint. I just did this with an old Steelcase tanker desk. The original finish was baked on and said to be an excellent base coat (recommendation by those who refinish these routinely)

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

I thought you only used self-etching primer on bare metal.

I've used it in my modeling hobby (Spray Cans of SEM or the MS TecNique) on all sorts of substrates with great luck..but again, spray can vs real paint.

So whats the difference between scuffing & sanding other then one uses sandpaper, the other is a ScotchBrite? Aren't I only going to scuff the high spots and the low spots in the texture end up untouched?

 

[msgtsmithret]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

I repainted and old PARK toolbox with the hammered paint on it but chose to sand it to bare metal then prime and paint. Scuff prime and paint is less work and will retain the textured surface pretty well.

 

[jakemac]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

Dave -
The difference is really only the amount of material you remove. Sanding removes more, and tends to penetrate into the thickness of the original paint. Sometimes, but not necessarily, down to bare metal. Scuffing just deals with the outer surface of the paint.

Depending on how much elbow grease you use, sanding or scuffing can both be done with ScotchBrite pads or sandpaper. They're both abrasives.

To get good results, you only have to break the surface of the original paint. That will allow the new paint to get a better bond.

As for textured surfaces, you will get better results (subjective) if you sand/scuff down to the lower spots. Unless you want the texture to show through the new topcoat. Then, spin the wheel and take your chances. Either way, you should be good.

Let us know how it comes out.

 

[Jack Olsen]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

I've always understood that self-etching primer -- which contains both acid to give texture to an un-etched surface and zinc for a form of rust protection -- should only be used on bare metal. Not on top of paint or primer.

I'm no expert, so I could be wrong about this. Maybe someone who knows will correct me.

 

[Spudland_Dave]

Re: Repainting a Repurposed "Toolbox" or other "Unsandable" surface

Dave -
Depending on how much elbow grease you use, sanding or scuffing can both be done with ScotchBrite pads or sandpaper. They're both abrasives.

To be honest...Minimal elbow grease...if it would have a smooth finish, I would let my IR 4151 "do the talking" with some 320 grit

As for textured surfaces, you will get better results (subjective) if you sand/scuff down to the lower spots. Unless you want the texture to show through the new topcoat. Then, spin the wheel and take your chances. Either way, you should be good.

Let us know how it comes out.

Id just assume let the texture show thru, it doesn't look bad at all. Why I asked and why I don't want to sand thru the highs into the lows to bare steel is the texture is pressed/rolled into the steel sheet, if I sand that much I'll be making the areas of the highs really thin..

I've always understood that self-etching primer -- which contains both acid to give texture to an un-etched surface and zinc for a form of rust protection -- should only be used on bare metal. Not on top of paint or primer.

I'm no expert, so I could be wrong about this. Maybe someone who knows will correct me.

I agree...I was also under the impression that the same acids which etch the steel do a great job of etching most surfaces...
I'm in no rush here, Next time I drive by my PPG Jobber, I'll swing by and ask what they would use & do.

No matter what I do, you guys will be the first to see how it comes out, good OR bad.