I have some pretty nice, long extension cords that have been damaged. Is it possible to safely repair these? I was thinking if I soldered the wires and used a couple good heat shrink wraps, I should be good. But then I wondered if I was a stupid, cheap ******* in need of a good shock...
Repair damaged extension cords?
- Thread starter Nimonic
- Start date
OSHA no longer allows you to repair extension cords, I can tell you first hand, I was fined for it a couple years back, I had an "aftermarket" repairable end on 2 extension cords, and got a $500 fine for it... The cords were in great shape but it was cheaper back then to buy a 100 footer and then cut it in half, put a new end on each half and call it a day, the longer cords were nice and thick... Well learned tha hard way osha dont approve that practice..
Now, if you have a damaged cord and fix it properly there is NO reason it is unsafe in my opinion. I still fixed them after I got fined, except I kept them for my own personal use.
If there was an abrasion in the middle of a cable, I would dissect it, and find the damage, cut the damaged wire {tin the ends of it} and repair it with a shrink coupling, then I would cover it in liquid rubber, then the final step was to slip 2 layers of shrink tubing over it all, I would do 1 at 6"s and 1 at 12"s, each time sealing the ends with more liquid rubber...
I have 5 or 6 of them in my garage, I am confident enough to use them in the rain...
Now, if you have a damaged cord and fix it properly there is NO reason it is unsafe in my opinion. I still fixed them after I got fined, except I kept them for my own personal use.
If there was an abrasion in the middle of a cable, I would dissect it, and find the damage, cut the damaged wire {tin the ends of it} and repair it with a shrink coupling, then I would cover it in liquid rubber, then the final step was to slip 2 layers of shrink tubing over it all, I would do 1 at 6"s and 1 at 12"s, each time sealing the ends with more liquid rubber...
I have 5 or 6 of them in my garage, I am confident enough to use them in the rain...
G_P
Well-known member
There's nothing wrong with repairing extension cords for home use. Heat shrink and liquid electrical tape work well.
At one point I had a 50 footer that must have had over 10 repairs and splices in it from my ex wife cutting the cord with the hedge trimmers.
At one point I had a 50 footer that must have had over 10 repairs and splices in it from my ex wife cutting the cord with the hedge trimmers.
James-W
Well-known member
I had a 25 foot extension cord but my daughter's dog chewed up a few feet down from one end, fortunately for the dog it wasn't plugged in. I cut off the bad part and put a new end on it. It works great, but it isn't a 25 foot extension cord anymore, it is only about 18 or 19 foot extension cord. I wasn't aware you weren't supposed to repair extension cords. I learned something new again today. This place is wonderful for learning stuff.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
I've read that OSHA doesn't allow extension cords to have ends replaced, but then I've also read (and recall some documentation to back it up) that yes, the ends can be replaced, but must be done by a qualified person, meaning a licensed electrician, or otherwise properly trained person. I work for a very large company, and we have hundreds of extension cords, all made up in house from bulk wire and ends. OSHA says nothing to us about that.
OSHA, up here wont allow it, their reasoning is them replacement ends are not water proof, and have no"pull apart" rating, it has to be a sealed commercial end on them. There was an end available that would trick them it looked like a commercial end, except they sucked, they pulled apart, cost as much as a new cord, and were really hard to assemble...
zmaxmotorsports
Well-known member
Osha only covers employees,as long as its for personal use theres nothing osha can do about it.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
X2 about the OSHA stuff. Nothing wrong with new ends at home, just don't do it at work. Depending on where the insulation is damaged, I may or may not repair it. I might just cut the bad part out if it's near the end.
Tommy
Tommy
My experience also. It would make sense if the cord was being used on a construction site where weather could be a factor, but in a controlled building environment it works. What is the difference if a cord cap is on as SO cord attached to a machine or is made up as an extension cord?
Just my ramblings..
lg
no neat sig line
R.Anderson
Well-known member
This I can see being the case.^^^
Were is up here ?? heaven? International Space Station? lol This is why people on GJ should have at least the state they are in posted with their name, so when people say " around here" rest of us know the general location.
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I can not believe OSHA does not approve replaceable/repairable plug ends. I have seen extension cords brand new with these style of plug ends for Professional audio and lighting, brand new shipped that way.
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In my shop/garage most of my extension cords I use, I make with these style ends, the cords work better last longer, are easy to repair when needed and look better IMO.
https://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=INTERPRETATIONS&p_id=20709
The above link may shed some light on the subject.
lg
no neat sig line
The above link may shed some light on the subject.
lg
no neat sig line
Mr. T
Well-known member
I'm guessing it was because the cord was UL listed as a unit. Replace the end and it is now an non listed cord. Kind of like how a breaker must be rated for a particular panel even if another will "fit" and work.
n8n
Well-known member
Short answer, for work no for personal use absolutely! Thanks to OSHA I haven't bought a new cord in years, I just trash pick at work when I need one or happen to see a really nice one
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jeffmoss26
Well-known member
I repaired hundreds of cables when I did lighting and sound at school. Lots of Hubbell and Leviton plugs.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
^^This^^ Our electricians would only replace entire power cords on equipment instead of just installing a new plug for that exact reason. WE were fined for it.
Tommy
rlitman
Well-known member
That's total BS. A FACTORY molded plug is not waterproof either. That's just the nature of a standard NEMA plug. And quality cord ends are water tight on the cord side, even though the plug itself is still not waterproof.
That would make sense if the wire designation was only on a label or on the cord ends, but that is generally not the case with good cords. The "SO" designation (and gauge, etc). is generally embossed at intervals along the entire length of the cable. With a UL listed end designed to go on that specific SO cable, it is still fine by UL standards.
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southalabama
Well-known member
My nieces boyfriend just scored a pile of extension cords a contractor discarded cause the ends needed replacing. He gonna use them at home. OSHA was the reason given. Whether true or not.
vettex2
Banned
I have no problems with replacing the cord cap or connector, repairing the sheathing is out of bounds, biggest problem is people too ignorant to use the strip gauge provided by the wiring device manufacturer on the cap/connector to have a proper install, the "ignorant" comment is not directed at anyone here, just my observations over the years.
Dick in Wisconsin
Well-known member
Why should the wire be "tinned" on the ends? I understand that "tinning" the wire amounts to putting solder on the wire and into the strands ... but what does it accomplish and want is the purpose?
Thanks!
G_P
Well-known member
The cord I fixed 10 times was a super cheap POS. The heat shrink and rubber tape were stronger and more cut and abrasion resistant than the factory sheathing.!
rlitman
Well-known member
No idea. Tinned stranded wires are far more likely to break when bent. I suppose after insulating, you could put something stiff in there under the wrapping to prevent it from bending and failing at your solder joint.
Mr. T
Well-known member
Is that possible, sure. You really just have to look up the certification with UL to know. Don't get me wrong by the way, I have a few of these at home too. It's a different story at work for obvious reasons.
sberry
Banned
G_P
Well-known member
Since I knew she would just end up cutting it again, yes. Otherwise I would have bought and thrown away 10 extension cords.
sberry
Banned
Yes, I forgot about the wife and the whacker.
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
The tinned end can be bent to form a hook around the screw for a bit more security. Also, once tinned, the screw thread can not break off the individual strands as the screw is tightened.
Unfortunately, rlitman is correct. Tinning the end does introduce a weak point where the solder stops. Hopefully the restraint in the cord end will prevent any load from being placed on that point.
rlitman
Well-known member
Yes, but modern cord ends use a clamp that is designed for stranded cable. Not a screw you wrap around like on a side wire outlet (made for solid wire).
Yeah, some really old **** worked that way. Don't use use those. They probably use cardboard as insulation too...
Agreed, if we're talking about tinning ends in a cord clamp, I would not expect the tinning to wick so far up the wire that it reaches the restraint. So it should not be subject to movement. But I still don't like the idea.
jwh
Well-known member
I was told NOT to tin wires going into a cord cap, because of dis-similar metals oxidizing.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
In this thread a while back, http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269499 , regarding a cut circular saw power cord splice I got a few basically "just replace the cord" responses, but some other response said the splice I made was fine. That works for my power cord. For a home-use extension cord however, unless the jacket is just abraded, I'd cut it cleanly and add cord ends. Be aware though, you'll never completely regain the integrity and weatherability of molded-on ends.
For simply abraded ext cord jackets, I've cleaned the cord good, gooped on liquid tape to make the surfaces level, and wrapped it with self-bonding rubber tape. This is where I stop, and it has held up OK. Ideally you should then cover the rubber tape with regular electrical tape and put heat shrink on the tape ends like I did in the above post. However you can't put heat shrink on an intact ext cord, and regular electrical tape will start coming undone by itself at the tape ends in the weather.
For simply abraded ext cord jackets, I've cleaned the cord good, gooped on liquid tape to make the surfaces level, and wrapped it with self-bonding rubber tape. This is where I stop, and it has held up OK. Ideally you should then cover the rubber tape with regular electrical tape and put heat shrink on the tape ends like I did in the above post. However you can't put heat shrink on an intact ext cord, and regular electrical tape will start coming undone by itself at the tape ends in the weather.
raiderhillbilly
Well-known member
dfiler2
Well-known member
Quote from OSHA's handbook.
"
The practice of assembling electrical extension cords is considered to be in compliance with OSHA standards, provided the assembled cord sets are assembled in a manner equivalent to those that are factory-assembled and approved. Criteria for determining whether shop-made cord sets meet existing electrical standards include:
All components must be approved for the purpose by a nationally-recognized testing laboratory (1910.303(a)) and (1926.403(a)). Individual components must be compatible for use with the other components of the completed assembly.
The cord set must meet all applicable requirements of 1910 Subpart S and 1926 Subpart K. For example, the assembly must be marked appropriately (1910.303(e)) and (1926.405(g)(2)(iv)); boxing intended for use in a permanent installation may not be used (1910.303(b)(1)(i) and 1926.403(b)(1)(i)); cords must be connected to devices and fittings so as to provide strain relief (1910.305(g)(2) (iii) and 1926.405(g)(2)(iv)); cords passing through holes in enclosures must be protected by bushings or fittings designed for the purpose (1926.405(g)(2)(v) – fittings designed to fasten cables to metal boxes are not acceptable); and no grounded conductor shall be attached to any terminal or lead so as to reverse designated polarity (1910.304(a)(2)) and (1926.404(a)(2)).
The cord set must be assembled by a qualified person.
The wiring of the completed assembly must be inspected by a qualified person before the cord set is used initially. For example, the following checks and tests, or equivalent, should be performed:
Determine that all equipment grounding conductors are electrically continuous.
Test all equipment grounding conductors for electrical continuity.
Determine that each equipment grounding conductor is connected to its proper terminal.
Test each receptacle and attachment plug to ensure correct attachment of the equipment grounding conductor.If you have further questions on this matter, please contact the [Office of General Industry Enforcement at (202) 693-1850]."
We make cords at work all the time and I know they meet OSHA standards, I'll ask the maintenance guys what they do to make them compliant.
"
The practice of assembling electrical extension cords is considered to be in compliance with OSHA standards, provided the assembled cord sets are assembled in a manner equivalent to those that are factory-assembled and approved. Criteria for determining whether shop-made cord sets meet existing electrical standards include:
All components must be approved for the purpose by a nationally-recognized testing laboratory (1910.303(a)) and (1926.403(a)). Individual components must be compatible for use with the other components of the completed assembly.
The cord set must meet all applicable requirements of 1910 Subpart S and 1926 Subpart K. For example, the assembly must be marked appropriately (1910.303(e)) and (1926.405(g)(2)(iv)); boxing intended for use in a permanent installation may not be used (1910.303(b)(1)(i) and 1926.403(b)(1)(i)); cords must be connected to devices and fittings so as to provide strain relief (1910.305(g)(2) (iii) and 1926.405(g)(2)(iv)); cords passing through holes in enclosures must be protected by bushings or fittings designed for the purpose (1926.405(g)(2)(v) – fittings designed to fasten cables to metal boxes are not acceptable); and no grounded conductor shall be attached to any terminal or lead so as to reverse designated polarity (1910.304(a)(2)) and (1926.404(a)(2)).
The cord set must be assembled by a qualified person.
The wiring of the completed assembly must be inspected by a qualified person before the cord set is used initially. For example, the following checks and tests, or equivalent, should be performed:
Determine that all equipment grounding conductors are electrically continuous.
Test all equipment grounding conductors for electrical continuity.
Determine that each equipment grounding conductor is connected to its proper terminal.
Test each receptacle and attachment plug to ensure correct attachment of the equipment grounding conductor.If you have further questions on this matter, please contact the [Office of General Industry Enforcement at (202) 693-1850]."
We make cords at work all the time and I know they meet OSHA standards, I'll ask the maintenance guys what they do to make them compliant.
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