Repair flexible magnetic base?

[Hemlock]

I picked up a pretty well worn magnetic flex base for dial indicators to replace the HF one I had been using. It's something I need a few times a year, and it seemed like the flex would be easier to use.

It felt a bit strange, so I took it apart to check it out and clean it up. I found that the cable inside is down to about half of its original strands. Anyone know where to source a replacement?

 

[zkling]

What brand is it, and what is the length of the cable?

 

[Hemlock]

Name plate is aluminum, completely scuffed free of any markings. End to end the cable is 11 3/8", the exposed length of cable inside the ends is 10 1/4"

 

[rharman]

Is it crimped or soldered? Couldn't you fab up a replacement?

 

[crewchief888]

thats why i never liked those flex indicator bases...

i wonder if starret has parts lists for their bases.....

 

[Hemlock]

I thought about soldering, not sure it would take the tension.

 

[JTH]

Central tools sells the cable for theirs. I bought one when I got the base since I wasn't sure how long they last. Turns out if you don't stretch it they last forever. Still using my original for 25 years. used to use it everyday setting up differentials. JT

 

[Hemlock]

Thanks for the tip. Turns out mine matches theirs. Pretty expensive part as it turns out. Wonder if it isn't better to replace the whole thing, as it is pretty worn.

 

[zkling]

How much is the part (cable)?

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Someone with a pneumatic aircraft cable swedger could make it. What size cable is it? 1/8 inch?

Charles

 

[kbkna]

Charles you made me spit out my drink! Didnt know such a thing existed. Could I borrow your pneumatic aircraft cable swedger? JK

 

[2oolhound]

Use a motorcycle clutch or brake cable. Most bike shops should be able to repair it.

All cables come pre-lubed so you need to clean the oil out of the end and then solder it. It's best if you poke the cable through the ferrel then bend the tips of the cable back 170'. The round ball on the end of the ferrel is usually a cup that you fill with solder that soaks into the bent back ends and it will never pull through that way.

 

[Hemlock]

They want thirty five bucks for the cable. No go on soldering, I've done motorcycle cables that way. This is swaged cable, steel ends.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Charles you made me spit out my drink! Didnt know such a thing existed. Could I borrow your pneumatic aircraft cable swedger? JK

I don't have one, but we use them at work. I haven't used it in several years, they are scary to use, you gotta keep your fingers out of the way. Careless people lose finger tips in them. They also make hydraulic ones. The cable slides thru the ball and shank end (or whatever type you are using) and you select the correct set of dies and it is controlled with a foot pedal. Its essentially a large pneumatic air hammer that drives one die, and the other is up against the inside of the end of the tool.

This is the one like we have at work. The dies are in matched pairs, and they go inside of the perforated black guard on the left side of the swager. The air hose goes on the right hand end, and the pneumatic hammer is in the housing.

You need what looks like the ball and single shank, as in the lower left of the pic below. They also make ball and double shanks, ball and no shanks, slugs, threaded ends, fork ends, etc.

Charles

 

[theknurl]

Charles you made me spit out my drink! Didn't know such a thing existed. Could I borrow your pneumatic aircraft cable swedger? JK

think Nicopress.....

http://nicopress.com/

i have the manual one

 

[Charles (in GA)]

think Nicopress.....

http://nicopress.com/

i have the manual one

Problem with nicopress is that it only squeezes one area and distorts the fitting also. The swager I show hammers the entire diameter of the ball and shank down to a specific size, compressing the cable strands together till it is solid virtually, the way the original part was made.

Charles

 

[2oolhound]

They want thirty five bucks for the cable. No go on soldering, I've done motorcycle cables that way. This is swaged cable, steel ends.

I'd still give a soldered cable a try. Logging cables for sky lines, haulbacks and down to small choker cables were all made like this for 100 years before these modern methods became available and were done at the suppliers instead of out in the bush. Muratic acid and zinc were used. Motorcycle cables are only splayed and not bent back 170' but I always did mine like that. Get a piece of emergency brake cable from an auto wrecker and try it. Looks like it broke just outside the ferrule where the flexing had to stop so there was no problem of it pulling through the ferrule.

 

[Rewind97]

To the OP (or anyone that knows)........what is it and what does it do?

 

[2oolhound]

Goggle "dial indicator base" Here:

http://www.google.ca/search?client=...oe=UTF-8&redir_esc=&ei=TEB4UeHXJ-mdiAK-roD4CA

 

[G_P]

I bet a good bicycle shop could make you one. I would think that they must make custom brake and shifter cables on site.

 

[Hemlock]

I've done a fair number of bicycle cables, they just use a thin crimp on end to keep the stands from fraying. I probably would try the solder, but the steel ends are solid, and I don't think I can get the cable out without a lot of damage.

 

[Hemlock]

I contacted central, as I found "flexbar" engraved on the base. When I asked what else might need to be done to rehab the unit ( didn't want to buy cable if more repair was likely) they offered to send me a cable for the price of shipping! No lose proposition fir me to repair now!