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Repairing a concrete cattleguard?

Splinter

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Jun 22, 2007
Messages
156
Location
St. Louis-ish
best way?

gorilla glue the bigger pieces?

make a form and just re-pour the top parts that are broken off?

cguard1.jpg

cgaurd3.jpg

cguard2.jpg


:(
 
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boiler7904

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Apr 4, 2006
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NW IN
I'd form it and then look at using an epoxy based patch product. Freeze thaw cycles will make concrete pop off of the existing structure and you'll be in the same situation this time next year.
 

russlaferrera

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Nov 24, 2006
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Central Virginia
Go to a store that sells masonry products. They make a bonding agent for concrete. You paint the damaged area then you pour the concrete in the mold to bring it to the desired shape. Without this bonding agent, concrete will not bond to old concrete.
 

Franz©

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Mar 26, 2006
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in a house
Form it, drill a few holes into existing elements. Drop pins into holes.
Oil form generously
Swab acrylic bonding agent into place, and add bonding agent to patching material if appropriate by instructions.
Pour patch slightly high and vibrate hell out of patch to eliminate air bubbles.
Cover with insulation if in area below 45°
Remove form 3 days later
 

Bigger Hammer

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Jun 26, 2007
Messages
173
I wouldn't mess around with a form on something like that. As russlaferrera suggested, go to a masonry/concrete supply store. Tell them what you have and what type of patching products they offer. Sika makes a good non/sag structural patch that sets up fast and bonds so strong that it will actually break the concrete it is bonded too before it breaks its bond. Sika patch 123 is the material. They make a similar product that is trowel grade (more for flat slab patching) but I don't think it would stand up on it's own enough to sculpt those ribs.

Sculpting the tops of the ribs would be the most difficult part and would take a nice touch with a margin trowel. But whatever you do don't cut that rebar out of there, it will help the patch material in the strength dept.
 
OP
S

Splinter

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Jun 22, 2007
Messages
156
Location
St. Louis-ish
thanks guys, lots of great advice, keep it coming. :beer: :thumbup:
It's the father in law's cattleguard, so I'm in the doghouse big time until this is fixed.

I was pulling a trailer unfamiliar to me, and when I swung the curve to come in the driveway, I cut it short and the right side was actually down in the grass instead of up on the road, that caused the right front jack (leg) of the gooseneck to catch on the cattleguard. I had to unload the trackhoe (at a precarious angle) to get the trailer to raise up enough to back it out. :tard:
 
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PanelDeland

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Mar 24, 2007
Messages
184
In the early 80's I worked for a pre stressed concrete company.We used an Epoxy called Col-ma-Dur(not sure of the spelling).I think it would be strong enough to do the job.No idea where to get it though.It came from a supplier locally(Amarillo Tx) at the time.It's strong enough and could be formed easily with a simple cardboard and block in place form.We used sand on larger chunks like yours.The NTSB OKed it for repairing bridge beams.It could be worked with a grinder to shape.
 

Bigger Hammer

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Jun 26, 2007
Messages
173
doing some reading, that sika 123 sounds like some good stuff...


yes it is, and wear some rubber gloves if you use that stuff too. I had it on my hands after patching some precast on a stadium renovation and it took about a week before it finally wore off.
 
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