Repairing egged out hole

[dante2]

I have a pair of brackets that are close to 20 years old and 640+ hours of service on a mower deck. The bracket is discontinued and unavailable in this universe. The hole originally was 7/8" and accepted a bushing and bolt through it. My only option is a repair of the oblong hole. Can I use a 7/8" brass bushing and fill the gap back in with a mig welder? My plan was flat copper on the table and clamp the bracket over that. Then clamp the brass bushing to the original intact edge and fill the oblong gap. Am I going to have a problem with the brass sticking? Any thoughts or suggestions are greatly appreciated. TIA

 

[cvairwerks]

Just weld the entire hole up and then redrill. Way faster and easier.

 

[bwringer]

I think you'll melt the brass bushing, if you're talking about welding with the bushing in place.

I'd just locate the center as best you can, then fill the hole with weld and re-drill.

To keep the drill bit on track (drilling through weld can be, er, interesting), perhaps drill a 7/8 hole in a hunka steel plate, tack weld it on, then use that as sort of a drill guide. (You could also start with a smaller hole like 1/4" and work your way up from there; might be easier.) And/or if there's room in the mechanism, maybe you could leave the doubler in place after trimming and welding it properly, and maybe end up with a much sturdier part.

 

[The Cobbler]

The hole originally was 7/8" and accepted a bushing and bolt through it

are you able to weld a nut to the flange and then thread the bolt with the bushing in place?

 

[dante2]

I think you'll melt the brass bushing, if you're talking about welding with the bushing in place.

I'd just locate the center as best you can, then fill the hole with weld and re-drill.

To keep the drill bit on track (drilling through weld can be, er, interesting), perhaps drill a 7/8 hole in a hunka steel plate, tack weld it on, then use that as sort of a drill guide. (You could also start with a smaller hole like 1/4" and work your way up from there; might be easier.) And/or if there's room in the mechanism, maybe you could leave the doubler in place after trimming and welding it properly, and maybe end up with a much sturdier part.

Unfortunately that's it on the thickness. Looks like a fill and drill job. Just time and I have plenty of that. Thanks for the help now I need to get a 7/8" bit.

 

[dante2]

are you able to weld a nut to the flange and then thread the bolt with the bushing in place?

I don't think so. This is the bushing and the 2 brackets are stacked with the bolt thru the deck. No real tolerance for anything else since everything little thing effects the belt angle.