Repairing floor before epoxy

[hondaguy1482]

I just purchased a new house and have started down the epoxy floor path.
So far the floor has been scarified, acid etched, and a small crack filled with the rustoleumn epoxy patch.
I have quite a bit of light pitting in areas where the tires are (north east winter/salt)
I've been told to use a skimcoat over the pitted area, but I'm curious to know if thickness of the putting matters? Most of it is around 1/16 thick and reading various repair kits suggests primering first?
I'm not against renting a diamond floor grinder as I want to make sure it's done right, the first time.
What has been the process for everyone in a situation like this?
Laticrete drytek skimcoat was recommended but I can't seem to find it anywhere, however the laticrete NXT skimcoat is, but my concern is how thick to lay it on, and if I should grind over it after and then prime the floor, or skim and then prime without grinding?
Th NXT mentions it's not for use with steel wheeled applications which concerns me as the floor jack uses steel wheels.

I'm open to suggestions and other recommendations. I really just want this to be a one and done thing.

Also, anyone who has suggestions on a good anti slip would be appreciated.
My original plan was to use a primer then 100% solids epoxy with flake for texture

 

[hondaguy1482]

Seriously? Nobody?

 

[topcok88]

I have only ever used the epoxy crack filler. But from all the information I have read here and other places, skim coats are hit and miss. I ground my floor and highs/lows were hardly noticeable. I guess if it were my I would grind it as smooth as possible and live with it.

 

[Armorpoxy]

We are a Master Distributor for Laticrete and stock the Drytek.
See
https://armorpoxy.com/products/laticrete-drytek-skimcoat-40-lbs/

 

[Dave5817]

I had very good luck with Legacy Industrial xtreme 100. Worked very well for pits and spalled areas that I chipped out. You have to work fast using small amounts but it's rock solid when you are done

 

[ard]

I have not had to do this yet, but when I do it will be using a two part 100% solids curing material (epoxy, polyurea) and not a cement product. While I know there are cements that say it can be feathered to zero, im more comfortable with a curing layer.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Just a comment that virtually any product when feathered including epoxy patches can fail at the edges. The proper way to make repairs is to cut out to about 1/8" around and damage and get your repair material into the depression and bring it to the edges. This way you have no feathered edges that can fail. Important to do this when driving on the repairs, not so important if non traffic areas.

 

[Pop Alexandra]

Can't you just sand the floor down till you can apply epoxy?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Sanding will do almost nothing to concrete. Diamond pads or tooling is needed due to the hardness of concrete.