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Repairing old Disston saw handles

jimreed2160

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Joined
Aug 7, 2016
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3,589
Location
Tallahassee FL
There was an earlier post of a vintage Disston handsaw which had a missing horn. This is a common problem with old saws because the handle tips are a weak spot that is prone to breakage. But no problem--it is not a complicated repair. Here are three vintage Disston rip saws. The top saw has its horn intact. The two saws below show my replacement horn tips.

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Here is a close up of a repaired horn.

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The first chore is to find suitable replacement material. Most of these saws were made from apple wood. Use Mr. Google to help you find some apple. Back in the day, most homesteads had an apple tree or two. The wood was common and makes a good utility wood. Large boards are hard to find, so most apple projects were small. It is easy to work and finishes well. Over time, apple turns a deep reddish brown and is very attractive.

Back to the repair. Once you find your replacement wood, you are ready to begin. Things are much easier if you remove the handle from the saw. Trim the broken stump flat by using a chisel. Make a pattern and cut your replacement piece a bit oversized. I use a bandsaw and a coping saw to get me close to the template. Glue this piece to the saw handle and let it dry. I use an oscillating spindle sander to remove stock. It makes quick work of the curves required. Then I finish up using regular sandpaper.

Since aged apple looks like cherry, I use a thinned version of Minwax cherry stain to match the handle. I stain some of the scrap apple wood to see how much stain is needed to make the new horn match. The final step is clear coat. I mask off the original handle and spray satin poly on the horn. After a few coats, I use sandpaper to blend the finishes. The last step is to wax with Johnsons paste wax.

The horn really makes a difference in how you hold the saw. Be sure to replace yours. Don't be shy about making modifications. I repaired a stair saw which had lost its horn to fire damage. I made the repair oversized and used my hand to match finger grooves. The modified saw fits my hand exactly and is much easier to use than an original would be. Pictured below is my modified saw on the top and a regular stair saw on the bottom.

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So now you can go out and find one of these old jewels to work on. Broken tools are usually sold at a discount! Find yourself some orphans and get them back to work in your shop. As usual, these old saws are much better than most new products. They just need a little love to get them in shape.
 
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Corndoggeh

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Apr 2, 2016
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As side note for those having trouble finding apple wood like I did, light or medium colored Jatoba also makes an affordable substitute for that aged apple wood. Its also a great wood for making a brand new handle.
 

crackit

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Joined
Feb 24, 2016
Messages
112
Location
North of Java
There was an earlier post of a vintage Disston handsaw which had a missing horn. This is a common problem with old saws because the handle tips are a weak spot that is prone to breakage. But no problem--it is not a complicated repair. Here are three vintage Disston rip saws. The top saw has its horn intact. The two saws below show my replacement horn tips.

Wow, that's very nice work!
 
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Carla

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Joined
Nov 27, 2010
Messages
672
Repairing a tool handle by 'letting-in' a piece of matching hardwood was a common traditional practice, but it often involved a 'delicate' section which offered little gluing area for the let-in section.

A common 'traditional' practice was to 'pin' or 'dowel' the repair, either with small diameter hardwood dowels, or, more commonly, with small brass machine screws of suitable size and length to re-enforce the glued joint. (sometimes the shape of the repair would be such as to allow for a shallowly carved 'face' with two brass 'beady little eyes')

This pinning technique was commonly used as an 'arsenal repair' for gun-stocks which had cracked, with the crack, after gluing, being cross-drilled about .005-ish under the major diameter of the screw, so that the screw would thread itself into the wood, after which the screw head would be cut off, and the screw or 'pin' blended with the surface of the wood.

cheers

Carla
 
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J

jimreed2160

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Aug 7, 2016
Messages
3,589
Location
Tallahassee FL
Thanks for your insight, Carla. The traditional hide glue was not very strong and breaks were problematic. It is good that we have modern glue technology that replaces those fixes because they are less than optimal. I have repaired many antiques with dowel and metal fixes. Dowels can wallow out over time in their holes and that causes a much larger repair down the road. Screws and other metal fixation devices are very bad for wood. Rust and corrosion from the devices causes wood rot and failure. Urea based wood glue can make stronger joints than the surrounding wood.

Here is some more detail on glue ups.

The secret is like everything else in the workshop--proper preparation. The broken area must be cut back and trimmed to good wood. If the piece is missing, as in a saw horn, this trimming is usually easy. It also provides an opportunity to adjust the alignment of the break and make it easier to fit the new wood.

Then the glue is applied and spread properly. The Titebond glue I use has about a 20 minute set up time. I use my redneck glue applicators (fingers) to get a good coat on both surfaces. Then I watch it and rock out to shop tunes for a few minutes. Usually the glue soaks into some parts of the wood. I add more to those areas. When the glue is stabilized, I put the parts together and clamp appropriately. Parts must be firmly held together. But too much pressure squeezes out too much glue. It takes practice to figure out how much pressure. I saved cutoffs from glue ups and tested the joints. It is not rocket science so it is pretty easy to figure out.

Woodworkers must have lots of clamps and a flat bench for glue ups.

After the glue dries, there should be some squeeze out to clean up. Hint-it is easier to clean up after a few hours while it is still plastic. Next week is not so easy.

For horn glue ups, I generally wait for a few days but a week is better. After a week or ten days, the glue is probably as hard as it will ever be.
 
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