Repairing/replacing hose bib?

[hal1]

These came with my new house 6 years ago - lousy subdivision developer. They're leaking where shown. Is this repairable or should I just replace them with a decent ball valve unit (which should I get. Also, while I'm about average in my skill, I can follow directions. I just don't know how permanent this is connected so I figured for the modest cost I'd get someone more qualified - not necessarily a big shop, just a neighborhood guy who can do small jobs like this. My (uneducated guess) is that this is going to take some cutting as it seem fairly securely attached?

Any suggestions on how I should do this? Or at least some tips on how the guy I hire should be doing it correctly?

 

[The Cobbler]

there's an oring on the shaft that's worn. they normally are 9/16 x 3/8 ( if memory serves me today)
easily repairable . change the washer while you're at it

 

[southalabama]

I’d scrape around base and see what numbers say as to model number.

Then look at arrowhead brass to determine how it’s put together. Then look on their site for parts and videos on how to repair.

Generally speaking arrowhead is a good brand.

 

[The Cobbler]

shut off the water , open the tap a bit, remove the large nut under the handle, the stem will come out of the faucet . go get parts from hardware store and install them , a bit of plumbers grease or Vaseline on the stem threads , put faucet back together. have a beer to celebrate

 

[Shiftless]

If there is an old timey hardware store near you, you should be able to get the 2 washers needed for a full rebuild and be out the door for under a dollar.

 

[unslow1]

I'd be suprised if that isn't rebuildable.

 

[The Cobbler]

6 yr old house, surprised it didn't require a vacuum break valve

 

[engineer2]

At 6 years old, parts should be available. Just figure out the models number from the Arrowhead website. Looks like a 262 series.

 

[hal1]

So in summary, after turning off water supply, unscrew that handle (the screw on the top) and replace washer?

 

[The Cobbler]

tale off the handle ( remove the screw) . take the stem out of the faucet, that 3/4" ish hex below the handle will unscrew. it might be tight to get moving. it will unscrew , removing the guts . on the other end of the handle is a washer , and on the shaft ( once you remove it from the hex, will be an oring ( that's actually what is worn) that needs replacing

 

[Meursault74]

If you can't find the exact washer/o-ring etc. This can be used for the packing material

DANCO 3/32 in. x 36 in. Valve Packing 80794 - The Home Depot

Visit The Home Depot to buy Valve Packing 3/32 X 36" 9D00080794

www.homedepot.com

I had a couple of different brand hose bibs leaking at that spot when I turned them on. I couldn't unscrew the screw holding the handle on either of them as they were seized/corroded. I was able to loosen the packing nut enough to wrap the packing thread in there and stop the leaks.

 

[nadogail]

My pluber charges more if I worked on it first and made the problem worse.

 

[MongoTA]

Is this repairable...

Any suggestions on how I should do this?

Yes to both, and if you're on this forum, you should be able to do this.

I see a "360" on the brass where the black arrow is pointing to. You can research that, it's likely the model number, or part of the model number. If you can confirm it's an Arrowhead 360, there are repair and replacement kits.


You'll have to verify this, but the PK1600 shows as a replacement part for the 260 and 360 valves: PK1600

PK1600:



The repair is easy:
1) Turn off the water supply to that bib, there should be a valve in the basement on the supply tube that feeds that hose bib.
2) Go back outside and open the bib to let any water pressure inside the line to release.
3) You can remove the valve cartridge by using a wrench where the blue arrow is pointing to. Back that out and the handle and cartridge can be removed from the valve body. If the cartridge does not easily unthread from the body (while rotating the wrench in the correct direction!), you might want to use a second larger wrench to stabilize the valve body while you put additional force on the cartridge with the original wrench. Should not be a problem though.
4) Remove and replace the cartridge, or...
5) Remove the cartridge and replace the worn bits and pieces, typically a couple of O rings and probably a rubber seat on the bottom of the cartridge.
6) Turn the water back on and check your work.

Good luck, and enjoy.

 

[drmarkr]

Yes to both, and if you're on this forum, you should be able to do this.

I see a "360" on the brass where the black arrow is pointing to. You can research that, it's likely the model number, or part of the model number. If you can confirm it's an Arrowhead 360, there are repair and replacement kits.


You'll have to verify this, but the PK1600 shows as a replacement part for the 260 and 360 valves: PK1600

PK1600:



The repair is easy:
1) Turn off the water supply to that bib, there should be a valve in the basement on the supply tube that feeds that hose bib.
2) Go back outside and open the bib to let any water pressure inside the line to release.
3) You can remove the valve cartridge by using a wrench where the blue arrow is pointing to. Back that out and the handle and cartridge can be removed from the valve body. If the cartridge does not easily unthread from the body (while rotating the wrench in the correct direction!), you might want to use a second larger wrench to stabilize the valve body while you put additional force on the cartridge with the original wrench. Should not be a problem though.
4) Remove and replace the cartridge, or...
5) Remove the cartridge and replace the worn bits and pieces, typically a couple of O rings and probably a rubber seat on the bottom of the cartridge.
6) Turn the water back on and check your work.

Good luck, and enjoy.

The key here....seeing as this is the Garage Journal, will be to determine what new tools you will need/get to buy in order to complete this repair....

 

[MongoTA]

The key here....seeing as this is the Garage Journal, will be to determine what new tools you will need/get to buy in order to complete this repair....

lol, I almost included something like "I'd use a pipe wrench to stabilize the valve body while removing the cartridge, if you don't have one, the repair savings will more than pay for the wrench."

Yup, let no repair opportunity go wasted!

 

[drmarkr]

lol, I almost included something like "I'd use a pipe wrench to stabilize the valve body while removing the cartridge, if you don't have one, the repair savings will more than pay for the wrench."

Yup, let no repair opportunity go wasted!

If you had one size already, then this would surely be cause to buy one of a slightly different size?

 

[hal1]

That's def a '360' on the side, so it seems the 1600 cartridge is right. I'm guessing the cartridge is firmly in place after 3 years of weathering Is what you mean by 'pipe wrench'. Also, is this the o-ring/washer I'd be replacing? However, as long as I have to take out the cartridge I would probably just replace it, rather than replacing just the ring.

 

[hal1]

Yes to both, and if you're on this forum, you should be able to do this.

Yes. My skills are pretty rudimentary compared to those here, like installing an elecrical outlet on an exterior wall feeding the power from the outlet on the inside, and replacing with a GFCI, so I can usually take things apart and put them back together the way I found them

 

[Meursault74]

That's def a '360' on the side, so it seems the 1600 cartridge is right. I'm guessing the cartridge is firmly in place after 3 years of weathering Is what you mean by 'pipe wrench'. Also, is this the o-ring/washer I'd be replacing? However, as long as I have to take out the cartridge I would probably just replace it, rather than replacing just the ring.

Those are tongue and groove pliers. You could steady the valve body with those, but you have to squeeze hard on them while you're turning the wrench on the cartridge, and you need some flat surface to grab. Do you have tongue and groove with rounded jaws?

This is a pipe wrench, made to grab round.


It is important to keep the valve steady. You don't want to torque the pipe and have a plumbing dominoe effect happen with other issues

By using a pipe wrench on the round portion and a wrench on the flats, you can "push" them together at the same time to unscrew the cartridge while keeping the valve steady.

 

[hal1]

doh! I should have known that wrench. Makes sense about pushing them together - offsetting the opposing torques

 

[jkuro]

On the flat part, call it the nut, you should use a wrench with flat jaws, so you don't booger it up.