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Repairing Stihl Backpack Blower

bwringer

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Jan 1, 2013
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...As noted above, I have found that you can get brand-new carburetors for anywhere from $10-50 online. I have just started buying new carbs and stockpiling them. I have two Stihl units which use the same carb, and I found new carbs online for $11 each so I ordered several. It doesn't take long to throw a new carb on, and tweak the mixture and I'm back in the running again.

I think the long-term solution in many cases will be battery-powered units, which are becoming more commonplace and powerful.

Yep and yep. One day we'll look back on all this stinky unreliable gas-powered **** and just laaaaaaaugh...
 
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Bretny

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I got a new carb for a stihl 026 chainsaw a few years ago. Spent about $13. Just last week i needed a carb for a 15hp kohler with electrical shutoff. $18 shipped. Its hardly worth doing more than taking the bowl off and shooting it with cleaner.
 

Davefr

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I've found that with Stihl equipment it's better just to take it to a dealer for service than to try fiddling with it yourself.

Haven't you heard. The pleasure derived from spending a day at the workbench fixing something adds an extra day to your life.
 

oldmxracer

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I'm thinking the liquid was fuel. Is it possible I flooded it so bad that stuff went through the cylinder into the muffler and even out around and such. It doesn't look like it's straight out of the tank, it looks like it's been through something. No rain.

Yes it is VERY possible ! There will be fuel left in the bottom end of the engine also.

Just had it happen to Me this year on My old BR400 (I SCREWED UP BIG TIME ON STARTING) and continuing to get it started.

removed the muffler and drained, while it was off laid the unit on it's side with plug removed ( do not let spark get close) pulled the hell out of it wide open which got the gas out of the bottom end !

Put it back together throttle wide open and pulled till it started runs and cleans it's self out .
 
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GarageDan

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Yes it is VERY possible ! There will be fuel left in the bottom end of the engine also.

Just had it happen to Me this year on My old BR400 (I SCREWED UP BIG TIME ON STARTING) and continuing to get it started.

removed the muffler and drained, while it was off laid the unit on it's side with plug removed ( do not let spark get close) pulled the hell out of it wide open which got the gas out of the bottom end !

Put it back together throttle wide open and pulled till it started runs and cleans it's self out .

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try Friday.

Haven't you heard. The pleasure derived from spending a day at the workbench fixing something adds an extra day to your life.

You kid, but I honestly find fiddling with things on the work bench very relaxing. It's a hullava lot more fun that doing the yard work. :lol

I got a new carb for a stihl 026 chainsaw a few years ago. Spent about $13. Just last week i needed a carb for a 15hp kohler with electrical shutoff. $18 shipped. Its hardly worth doing more than taking the bowl off and shooting it with cleaner.

I'm leaning in that direction...
 
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GarageDan

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I couldn't sleep so I went out to the shop. I cleaned the frame underneath the motor and tank and down the exhaust side of the motor. What a mess.

I checked the diaphragm again. That little disc is metal so it should be rigid, however it all is and shouldn't be. All the black rubber should be as soft as silk from what I've researched. That's definitely an issue.

I emptied the tank and checked it out. I appears good and clean and doesn't appear to be leaking.

I reassembled the air filter housing, carb, pull starter etc. Basically everything except the muffler and plastic cover.

I pulled the plug and I checked the compression on the cylinder three times: 75, 80, 80. I would think that's good compression. Before checking the compression I laid it down and pulled it a bunch and no gas or anything came out any holes. If it was overly flooded, it's good now.

When it warms up I'll put some fresh gas in and try to crank it (no choke) without the muffler and see what happens.
 
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chaosracing

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I checked the diaphragm again. That little disc is metal so it should be rigid, however it all is and shouldn't be. All the black rubber should be as soft as silk from what I've researched. That's definitely an issue.

Yes the disc is metal, but the rest of it is supposed to be flat and flexible. You will find that a rebuild kit is the same cost or more for these carbs. Do yourself a favor. Dont waste your time trying to start it until you get a new carb. Not worth the headache and time. It wont start with the diaphragm like that. It also means the other rubber components of the carb are shat as well.
 

Bretny

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Check your compression gauge and make sure the decomp valve isnt open. Thats not good compression. It may be so low that the engine wont run. What do the rings and cyl look like peeking into the exhaust?

Drip a few dribbles of oil in there and do the test again.
 

mjeff87

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I'm going to go in a completely different direction on this and say check the flywheel key to see if it's sheared off and has jumped timing. I fixed a coworkers Stihl, same model, and that was the problem. Muffler was about half full of 2 stroke mix from trying to repeatedly start it without getting the spark at the right time, just like yours.

Put it all back together and see if it runs after what you did. If it still doesn't, give it a TINY spray of starting fluid and see if it fires off. If it doesn't, I'd say you have an ignition problem. You can check for spark and you'll likely see a good healthy spark, problem is it's not in time. To get to the key you pretty much have to completely disassemble the whole unit to get to the flywheel. Stihl makes a flywheel puller ($$$), but you can pop it off with a punch and hammer, carefully.
 

gemniii

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Jul 20, 2015
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Fulton, Ms
<snip>
I pulled the plug and I checked the compression on the cylinder three times: 75, 80, 80. I would think that's good compression. <snip>
On my saws that would be very low compression.
Have not tested my blowers.
 
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Davefr

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I pulled the plug and I checked the compression on the cylinder three times: 75, 80, 80. I would think that's good compression.

That's terrible compression. It varies, but you usually need 110-120 as a min.

Your compression guage could be bad. Is it designed for 2 cycle engines and does it have a schrader valve right at the spark plug/cylinder fitting? If it's the old type that you hold a rubber ****** against the spark plug opening then they are usually inaccurate for small 2 cycle engines.

Any chance that blower was ever straight gassed? Is it old with heavy use? If not I think your compression readings are erroneous.

Your diaphram is bad if it's stiff. Just replace the carb./filter/fuel lines and report back.
 
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chaosracing

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Found this info on another forum, not my words, but someone else.
Any two stroke, 125psi, is close to worn out, 150psi is a decent used machine, 175psi is a good running machine. Anything less than 125 on a two stroke, it's toast and hard to start.
 
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GarageDan

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I know it's cheap, but this is the second time in my life I've needed a compression test.
HF%20Compression%20Test_zpsjl585bpr.jpg
 
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