Repeatable/move friendly garage?

[afbrian13]

I'm wondering if anyone else is in the same situation I am. I'm active duty, so you know you're going to move. Same as anybody else who rents, changes jobs, etc.

I try to make my garage move friendly. You wouldn't know it by the amount of **** I have, but I do. That and I just hung my old kitchen cabinets on the wall, but the next owners can have those.
Instead of building shelves, I have heavy duty modular hieght sets on casters. My chemical storage is a flam locker on casters. I try to keep everything 4-5 foot width so they can be rearranged depending on the layout. The goal is keep everything stand alone and not wall supported for when you arent able to to anchor anything. The only things not on wheels are my tire rack, but its light when unloaded, and my workbench, but its getting a new base soon so I'm working that into the design. This means no pegboard, few hooks, etc. Everything in drawers.

This idea proved its worth about 6 months ago when I moved. I used an enclosed car trailer with a ramp. In about a half hour most of the garage rolled right into the trailer, shelves still loaded and all.


Is anybody else in the same boat? What ideas have you incorporated for the purpose?

Thanks, just looking to share ideas!

Brian

 

[crewchief888]

basically i keep everything in the garage so it can be moved.

my storage "solution" is a mishmash of leftover repurposed and salvaged items.

i dont keep much of anything (chemicals, oil, a/f, ect ) "in stock"

spare parts, "junk" would all fit in one truckload to the scrapper.

all i really need to keep are tools, toolboxes, welder, compressor.

i could make it all fit in a 17'-19' truck.

 

[72Anthony]

It is similar to people that have to park cars in their garage: put nearly everything on casters so it is easy to move things around.

I am a big fan of the metal closet shelfing systems that are available at home depot and the like (closet maid, etc). The uprights go into the studs with 3 or 4 screws, so it is very easy to install and take down, leaving only a few screw holes to patch.

Another option is those chrome plated wire shelves. They accept casters and can even be stacked two deep, with less frequently needed items stored in the back.

It also helps if you have things stored in plastic bins, even on the shelves. Label everything so it is easy to find day to day and to assist with the move. Plus if you had those wire metal shelves filled with plastic bins, you could wheel the whole thing into the moving truck, with minimal lashing to keep a bin from falling off the shelf.

Not sure if you move yourself, but on my last move I rented a truck with a lift gate. That made things a lot easier.

 

[tk421]

im doing the same thing myself, even though we just built/moved in and wont be moving for 20 years. I have a bad habit of always rearranging my sh*t!

For items that you cant put casters on (like a 36"wide metal cabinet i have) i built a small wooden base, like an oversized movers dolly, and put the cabinet on top of it

 

[600SL]

That's a tough one. Putting everything on casters means everything on the floor. This can be very space limiting. The last shop I organized I had to focus on getting everything off the floor of my 28' x 26' garage. The solution was two 1' wide perimeter shelves at 6' and 7'6". Of course I did this and moved 6 month later and had to leave it behind.

Good news is it was not overly expensive but not too cheep either. Aproximatly $500 for 160' linear ft of shalving.

For a 28 x 26 ft garage approximately 50 of these brackets are required and about 6 sheets of plywood.

http://www.essentialhardware.com/kn...paign=google&gclid=COy71ezp6MMCFWIV7AodOxYAMw

Go to a place that will rip the plywood into four 11- 7/8" strips.

You will also need bins to hold stuff properly on a 12" shelf but at least you get to take those with you.

This situation works out very well. The stuff you need regularly is on the 6' shelf. The stuff you need once or twice a year is up high.