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"Replace a broken tile" - She

Bessy

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Ontario, Canada
"Would you be able to replace the broken tile in the bathroom floor for me?" She said, "It shouldn't take that long." She said...

Background: I'll spare you all the long winded version, but essentially I am to replace a broken floor tile in the bathroom for my neighbours. She asked a few weeks ago, and through the grapevine (husband) I learned that the toilet had had a leak in the past. I walk in expecting to pull up the pieces of tile, remove the mortar from underneath, reset a replacement tile, and call it a day.

This is what I find:
27104917749_efa4225659_z.jpg
[/url]IMG_20171206_114931 by Corey McCulloch, on Flickr[/IMG]

Here folks, is where I introduce you to the ever so familiar Snowball Effect. So much for a quick tile replacement (a project that so many internet sources will say can be completed "in no time")

So the plumber that they had scheduled to fix the toilet is down and out with an injury, no idea when he's going to be back up and running, so I offer to install the seal on the toilet as well, that's now on the to-do list right near the top just under "fix the damn floor". I take a tour down to the basement to see how much rot I'm dealing with.

Keep in mind as curious as I am about how far this water goes (I managed to take off two layers of punky wood with the shop vac in no time flat) I've still only removed one tile because I have self restraint, and only six spare tiles should anything go wrong.:lol_hitti

In the basement I find that there is visible water damage to about a 1.5" radius larger than the hole that the pipe fits through, call it seven inches total diameter for those counting.
38166445484_11bb7d9987_c.jpg
[/url]IMG_20171206_190211_01 by Corey McCulloch, on Flickr[/IMG]
I poke around with my pocket knife and discover that it's likely just the edges of the hole, and at least from the bottom, it doesn't appear that someone will fall through the floor while on the throne. My knife didn't plunge into the wood as easily as it did up top.

So I fire a text over to the neighbour with a few pics of what I'm dealing with and explaining that it's potentially more work than she had originally considered. She responds by saying: "Oh boy, plumber is still injured, if you could [fix the toilet/floor] that'd be great, Thx."

Here's what the top looked like after scraping away most of the punky wood with a putty knife:
38166203714_ec87c98102_c.jpg
[/url]IMG_20171206_114632 by Corey McCulloch, on Flickr[/IMG]

My knife did still sink into the wood some, and every time I touch it, my fingers go brown, so there is obviously some level of moisture/breakdown still present.

So that about brings to me where the project stalled for today. I did however get the caulking installed around the sink and shower, so I can knock that off my todo list.

At this point, I'm going to await the arrival of said neighbours, and go over their options, which is where you lovely people come into play. Correct me if I'm wrong, but here's how I see things:

Option 1: Replace the single broken tile, grout around it, seal up the toilet and call it a day. The floor is not rotted all the way through, and as long as I can get some dry wood to adhere the tile to, which should be fine until such time as they decide to redo the floor entirely.
Pros: It can be completed easily in a few hours, and at the cost of materials already invested into the job.
Cons: It's cutting a corner and not doing the job correctly which irks me.

Option 2: Pull up the next three to five tiles (total count being four to six of the six I have to replace them with, clean out the rot/mold, repair any damage done by the water, and repeat steps one through three of option one. See what I mean by the snowball effect?
Pros: Allows me to find out how much rot there is to deal with, and fix it accordingly and means less chance of the problem becoming worse if there is ever any more liquid introduced to the floor (it is a bathroom after all).
Cons: I ONLY have six tiles, meaning the margin of error is basically nil.

Option 3: Get an idea of their timeline for renovations, and suggest that they bite the bullet and install all new (and significantly cheaper) laminate in lieu of the tile (as it runs out of the bathroom and throughout the entrance way, maybe 100 sqft total, (no I have not measured it, that's a total guess).
Pro: All new modern looking floor, water issue fixed correctly, makes everyone happier in the end and it doesn't need to be redone in a few years.
Con: More time, more cost.

And go.

Thanks,
B.
 
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-Brent-

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Utah
If they do choose option 1, I'd add some blocking beneath the soft area. I'm with you on the problems of each option but I think option 3 has just as much, if not more "snowball effect" than option 2, which very well could snowball into ending up having to do option 3, anyway.
 
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Bessy

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I hear you Brent,

I'm firing off an email right now to the owners to tell them where I'm at. As much as it pains me to cut a corner, I'd rather just do option one and leave it at that, but it's not my house). I believe they will be up this weekend anyway which will give them a chance to see first hand what it looks like.

In terms of snowball effect of option three, do you care to elaborate on what you mean? I see that obviously option two could snowball into option three, but I'm curious to hear what you have to say regarding going with a straight-up replacement?

For some background, the tiled area is the outer South-East corner of the house. On the south side you have the bathroom (SE corner) and a man door that leads to the steps to the garage, north side is the kitchen to the NW corner, and laundry to the NE, and the East side has a man door to the deck. this whole area is above the basement, which is simply unfinished cold storage.
 

Gerald O

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Now you know why the tile was broken. Floor is flexing, causing toilet seal to fail, causing rot, which worsens the flexing.

Replacement tiles will soon fail due to inadequate sub floor.
 

PT Doc

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Ensure toilet is not leaking. If it is not leaking let floor dry out and add blocking like previously recommended. Replace tile with laminate? Sounds like that is a less choice option with many more potential problems. Sounds like homeowner needs to decide what they want base on budget.
 
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Bessy

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Now you know why the tile was broken. Floor is flexing, causing toilet seal to fail, causing rot, which worsens the flexing.

Replacement tiles will soon fail due to inadequate sub floor.

My thoughts exactly. Which is why I'd still like to hear Brent's logic regarding how much larger of a snowball I can roll by replacing the whole floor :lol_hitti

At this point the ball is in their court. It's up to their budget/priorities. I've got a list of projects that I've been chipping away at through the last few months, both need to do and nice to do jobs. They are great people, but sometimes I question her assessment of my abilities. I'm a handy guy - far from a pro - but I can hold my own. I'm just thankful for the opportunity to learn some new skills, and gain a bit of perspective.

Run... while you still can!
I wish. It's hard to run away from good paying cash jobs when you're in your twenties in a small town, still trying to figure out what exactly your degree qualifies you to do. :headscrat
 
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Bessy

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Ensure toilet is not leaking. If it is not leaking let floor dry out and add blocking like previously recommended. Replace tile with laminate? Sounds like that is a less choice option with many more potential problems. Sounds like homeowner needs to decide what they want base on budget.

As I'm pretty sure I've mentioned, it's difficult to assess the total damage resulting from the leak. The broken tile I pulled up lifted off without much effort at all, with the wood underneath being not wet to touch, but punky. I stuck a knife tip in about 1/4" with little to no resistance, and was able to remove two fibrous layers of wood using the shopvac and a putty knife, as I was cleaning chunks of thinset from under the tile I lifted.

It seems likely that the water damage islocalized to the latter 3x3 feet surrounding the toilet but without removing more tiles it's a blind guess, and virtually impossible to dry out without exposure. Exposure means pulling up more tiles, which furthers builds the snowball. All in all, the tile job done by the previous owners (or whoever they hired) is abysmal: Piecemealing of the bits around edges and corners, the grout lines are not uniform or lined up perfectly, and there is definitely flex under some of the tiles closest to the bathroom.

I agree that laminate is opening up a totally new can of worms, but those three choices are what I came up with given the information and materials I have at my disposal (namely a single tile lifted, a punky wood floor that smells of wet wood, and six leftover tiles that I haven't a hope in h*ll of finding a replacement for if I need more than the six I have. Like I said, I'm here for some perspective as to what options I can present to the owners, as to how best to get them a floor that is functional and decent.
 

jhelrey

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Remove toilet, remove tile, and let the floor dry out.

Install backerboard with thinset between it and the wood and screws every 6 inches.

Install new tile, grout, and caulk.

Reinstall toilet.

Collect $$$.
 

scotw

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NC, near Raleigh
The tiles are bonded to the plywood with thinset? If so, it will never work. There should be a cement backerboard or ditra between the tiles and plywood. Blocking never hurts either.

I had 800 sq feet of tile installed in my new house by a professional using latex modified thinset directly to plywood. 24 tiles cracked. I tore it all out and used ditra. No problems anymore.

The floor is flexing (moisture swings, rotten wood) and the thinset can't keep up with it. Tile is strong but brittle and it will crack.

On the tile that was removed, what did the bottom look like? Was it completely covered in thinset?

I would do option 1 and call it a temporary repair until the floor can be redone.
 
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Bessy

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On the tile that was removed, what did the bottom look like? Was it completely covered in thinset?

I would do option 1 and call it a temporary repair until the floor can be redone.

When I removed the first tile, (I really should have taken pics before I started, but I wasn't expecting this kind of issue) the majority of the thinset came up with it, except for an area to the left edge and the middle section of the tile. in both those spaces I did use the chisel and a scraper to remove some thinset that had bonded well enough to the plywood.

I'll be talking to the owners either tomorrow or Saturday to discuss what they want to do. I'm mainly concerned that whatever I do, won't bond correctly to the floor and just end up breaking again.
 

DieselNut88

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How big is the room? If it is not very big. I would remove the entire floor. Whether you reinstall tile or laminate it should not take long. I did a 6'x7' bathroom in 8 hours working slow, but that was only tile. I did grout, trim and toilet another day.
 
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Bessy

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How big is the room? If it is not very big. I would remove the entire floor. Whether you reinstall tile or laminate it should not take long. I did a 6'x7' bathroom in 8 hours working slow, but that was only tile. I did grout, trim and toilet another day.

The entire area is just shy of 10x10'. I measured last night but don't recall the exact measurements. It's doable for sure, it's just a matter of whether the owners want to drop that kind of money on the project right now or not. I'll meet with them tomorrow or Saturday to discuss options.
 

bczygan

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DETROIT! Arsenal of Scrappers
The only option I would entertain:

Me on the phone (Or preferably email):

"Hi (Name of neighbor), Looks like you have a bit of a big project there. Certainly way beyond my capabilities and time constraints. You're gonna need not just a plumber, but a good contractor. If you need, I can give you a couple of names......"

Bill
 

Kevin54

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If you are going to fix it, fit it correctly. Rip the tile out, the stool out, and replace the floor with NEW wood. Then put in all new tile or linoleum in the bathroom. And tell everyone to quit ******* AROUND the stool.
 

rsanter

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Option b

I am sorry to tell you but the problem is worse than anticipated and is beyond my scope or talent.
You need to have a professional fix this correctly as you have rot in the subfloor
 
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Bigwheels

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Thirty years in the tile trade tear it out to the floor joist replace with 3/4 osb then 1/4 inch cement board from Home Depot install new tile with versa bond thin set and grout 1320.00 labor +material should cover your time and material
 
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Bessy

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Thanks all for the replies. Where I respect the number of replies regarding hiring a professional to do the repair, my neighbours have remained adamant that I continue with the project, as they see it as a learning experience. I am a fairly handy guy, and I'm more than willing to learn from those more skilled than I am, so I appreciate everyone's advice and wisdom.

As luck would have it, the owners had a relative over on Saturday, who had been in the trades (retired now). He drew essentially the same conclusion I did, being that "We don't really know the extent of the damage until we dig a little further." In other words, pick out some new tile, because in all likelihood, you're re-tiling the bathroom.

After removing the toilet and exposing all the damage I had exceeded my six tile replacement limit, and continued to remove the rest of the tile in the bathroom (we are now basically into option three as stated in my first post, but we are only tiling the bathroom at this point).

After removing all the tile from the third row where the break occurred to the east exterior wall we could see where the water damage was limited to. I removed the rest of the tile throughout the bathroom, pulled/vacuumed up the 1/4" plywood that needs to be replaced all except for around the doorway where I will have to cut along the wall to free it up (tomorrow's job). I then went to Lowes to purchase plywood and tile to complete the bathroom.

Tomorrow's plan is to remove the last of the 1/4" ply and drill a small core through the sub-floor, to both verify the thickness of the sub-floor and determine if there is any water damage down further that would warrant removal of the sub-floor. At this point, the floor feels solid enough as it is, so adding 1/2" of plywood in my opinion is more than sufficient.

Correct me or provide tips where possible, but here is my methodology for the remainder of the project:
- Clean and disinfect the sub-floor, drying it thoroughly before installing flange support bracket around the toilet flange.
- Measure and mark out the locations of the water supply, toilet flange and floor vent to be cut out of the 1/2" ply.
- Cut the 1/2" ply to size, slightly smaller than the room. (I expect that it might be easier to fit out the plywood in two sections, one going from the west edge of the doorway to the east wall, the other to the west wall. Is there any argument for or against this?)
- Screw the plywood, rougher side up, at 6" centers along the edges, 8" in the field, using my foot to apply weight before screwing.
- Determine a center-line in both directions to establish a tile pattern that doesn't leave too small of widths of tile at any wall.
- Layout with spacers to determine what measures to cut the tiles for outer edges/around plumbing/fixtures.
- Create straight edges for outer walls and begin laying thinset/tile.
- Set tiles, keeping an eye for level, let set.
- Grout and cleanup
- Reinstall toilet with new wax seal, test for leaks, repair as necessary.
- Reinstall baseboard trim, fixtures, etc.

Anything I'm missing? Verging on analysis paralysis?

Thanks,
B.
 

jdsac

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Do it once- do it right- you are already starting from scratch
Use hardi backer screwed down over thinset-use the correct screws- backer is for hardi, rock on is for wonderboard- you may have to use a hammer to start them about 1/8 "

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Backer-On-...-Drive-Interior-Cement-Board-Screw/1000164355

the board has a layout pattern for the screws. Mesh tape for backer board to join pieces. Tape is for this application- don't use mesh drywall tape. Caulk around it with silicone and when finished with the tile job caulk atound the edges and toilet flange. If it can't get wet, it won't rot. See video on hardi inst , its from james hardy- anything else is cutting corners. Backer board is cheap- also use the special coated screws for backerboard- no substitutes


if the tile is higher than the floor it joins - use this


The toilet flange goes on after the job is done- it's supposed to sit on top of the finished floor, or it will eventually leak - double wax or thick wax is just a cheat. REmove it & reinstall if necessary.
 
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Bessy

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Thanks guys, I will look into hardi backer today as I was a little bit concerned about the extra 1/4", it would be great to not have the issue. Will I have any problems given the tile is 13"?

As for the toilet flange, yes I understand that the wax ring assembly goes on over the tile, but I was referring to the flange support bracket that screws down around the flange hole where the wood is damaged.

Thanks for the replies.



Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
 

tonyciambrone

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John bridge forum. There are 1000's of posts and pictures on how not to lay tile. 98% involve tile over OSB or Plywood or even a plain name 2x4 for a shower curb. 99.999% of the good jobs involve cement based backer board or a decoupling membrane like ditra or both. If you muck this up your customer knows where you live and has ready access to your doorbell. Do it right is my advice or let someone else put their name on it
 

PT Doc

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Change in flooring height would not be acceptable to me. Tripping hazard for sure. Then it looks like someone took a shortcut. But why a shortcut? Could draw attention to the keen eye of a prospective buyer. But if the quality of the rest of the house is consistent with this then have at it. Something to be said for doing it right thirst time both for functionality and appearance.
 

the gypsy

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The only thing I would like to add is that if you put in a door sill to hide the discrepancy in height like seen in the video I would use a marble sill. The reason being that if there is a spill the marble will not absorb the water and would contain the spill on the inside of the washroom.
 

ishiboo

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You gotta do it right if you want it to not crack and the joints to not crack, and that means cement board or even better an isolation membrane like Ditra/Gator/etc. If this is your first tile job, an anti-lipping system would probably benefit you too.

What I've found is take the price of the tile and multiply it by 200-300% for most cheap tile to get to the materials cost for finishing the job. The proper materials to complete it cost more than the tile.

I'll recommend vinyl plank here to save your sanity.
 
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Bessy

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1/4" hardiebacker was used. I'll get some photos up in a little bit as this week has been crazy with getting the bathroom buttoned up, a few funerals and trying to get xmas shopping out of the way. Just have to go back and seal the grout and the job will be completely complete.
 
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Bessy

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Change in flooring height would not be acceptable to me. Tripping hazard for sure. Then it looks like someone took a shortcut. But why a shortcut? Could draw attention to the keen eye of a prospective buyer. But if the quality of the rest of the house is consistent with this then have at it. Something to be said for doing it right thirst time both for functionality and appearance.

I completely agree with the flooring height difference being a problem, which if you refer to the post previous to this, I rectified using 1/4" Hardiebacker, bringing the floor level on both sides of the door. Again, it was a learning experience for me and I'm thankful for the constructive input from members of the forum here.

Luckily their plan at this point is to move into the house after retirement (it's currently dual purpose summer getaway/rental property) so resale isn't on the near horizon. Unfortunately the furnace decided to bite the dust the day after I was in to pull up the broken tile that started this whole mess. Had it not been for that $5000 fact, I expect they would have sprung to reno the whole 10x10 space (which is exactly what I would have done if it were my own property) without a second thought.

They are happy with the finished product, and have already started talking paint changes in the near future, but as far as renoing the whole area that will likely wait until they are closer to retirement. What we all have to remember is that a) this was supposed to be a single tile replacement, one day job, and b) it's a rental cottage and summer getaway place at this point, so if we look at it from that perspective, it's understandable that redoing the floor would fall second to projects like a new deck or dock etc that make the time the do spend at the property more enjoyable before they are prepared to move in full time.
 
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