Replace a duplex recepticle

[akpolaris]

I have a duplex receptacle on my kitchen counter, approx. 24" from the sink. It no longer will hold plugs securely when they are plugged into it. I guess it is wore out. The house is a little over 35 years old. Do I need to replace it with a GFCI? Any wiring challenges except getting the wires stuffed back into the box and of course making a brand new piece look it belongs?

 

[Jim greengo]

Are there any existing gfi's serving the area?

 

[akpolaris]

Just at the breaker I believe

 

[HoosierMark]

If you have the ability to add a GFI outlet, I know I would. If it is that close to the sink, it is just a good safety move. I find when replacing some outlets it is just a matter of trimming the wires back to as short as reasonably possible and then pushing, maybe a needle nose pliers to grab a wire and push it back in further. Patience is the key word for us who only do electrical work sparingly.

 

[75gmck25]

Most stores also carry a newer slim GFCI receptacle that is a little easier to fit into the box. One like this 20 amp slim is usually only a few dollars more than the larger ones. However, if its an older kitchen you may need to use 15 amp receptacles to match the circuit amps.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton...I-Outlet-Light-Almond-R96-GFNT2-0KT/205997294

Bruce

 

[alfredeneuman]

Most kitchens have 15A receptacles on 20A circuits

 

[Slowgsr]

Is your existing plug a split circuit? If you wish to keep it as a split and have it as a gfci you will have to get a 2 pole gfci breaker, and break out the tab on the new plug.

Otherwise use only 1 circuit for your gfci outlet

 

[akpolaris]

I am sure that it is a 15 amp circuit, not sure of breaker amperage. Not a split circuit. I am not able to look at box now but believe there are 2 gfci breakers. They cover the 2 bathrooms and exterior receptacles. If I put in a gfci and there is a gfci breaker is that create problems for the circuit? There is another receptacle on the other side of the sink as well.

 

[jeffmattero76]

If the circuit is protected by a GFCI breaker, then changing the counter receptacle to a GFCI is a waste. Simply replace the old duplex receptacle with a new one. If the circuit is on a regular breaker, then, yes, it would be better and would be required that the new receptacle be a GFCI.

If you do use a GFCI receptacle, the incoming cable wires should be connected to the LINE terminals, and any wires that provide power to a downstream receptacle(s), should be connected to the LOAD terminals.

Also, I believe code says that there must be a minimum of 6 inches of wire as measured from the back of the box to the end of the wire.

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[jeffmattero76]

One more clarification, since I don't know what you mean when you say "I'm sure it's a 15 amp circuit, not sure of breaker amperage". If you have 14 gauge wire, the breaker MUST be 15 amp. If you have 12 gauge wire, the breaker can be 20 amp.

Remember that the purpose of any breaker is to protect the WIRE by limiting the amount of amperage that can travel in that wire, thereby preventing a fire.

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[Rc_Guy]

Most kitchens have 15A receptacles on 20A circuits

Why?

 

[dscheidt]

Why?

20A small appliance circuits are required in kitchens. They're full of high draw appliances (toasters, microwave, hot plate, welder, blenders....), so the 20A circuit prevents blown breakers. But nothing actually has 20A plugs, so why not use 15A receptacles.

 

[jeffmattero76]

Because they are cheaper, and are allowed by code. Also, I have yet to see a kitchen appliance with the 20 amp plug configuration.

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[Rc_Guy]

So you mean the 20 amp plug with one space sideways I assume?

Our vending trailer has all 20 amp outlets but they all are the normal looking ones.

 

[jeffmattero76]

A 20 amp receptacle has a sideways T shaped slot and a vertical slot. Any appliance that draws more than 15 but less than 20 amps would have a male plug with one horizontal and one vertical blade. However, I have yet to see any kitchen appliance with the 20 amp male plug configuration.

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[exranger06]

20A small appliance circuits are required in kitchens. They're full of high draw appliances (toasters, microwave, hot plate, welder, blenders....), so the 20A circuit prevents blown breakers. But nothing actually has 20A plugs, so why not use 15A receptacles.

You use a welder in your kitchen?

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Welder in a kitchen? Lol now ive read it all

 

[alfredeneuman]

Maybe he cooks in his shop?

 

[dscheidt]

You use a welder in your kitchen?

You don't? Weirdo.


(I don't either. Just checking to see how carefully people read...)

 

[akpolaris]

I am not home to actually look at the box / breaker.. I am working remotely, just reviewing the list of what needs looking at when I get home

One more clarification, since I don't know what you mean when you say "I'm sure it's a 15 amp circuit, not sure of breaker amperage". If you have 14 gauge wire, the breaker MUST be 15 amp. If you have 12 gauge wire, the breaker can be 20 amp.

Remember that the purpose of any breaker is to protect the WIRE by limiting the amount of amperage that can travel in that wire, thereby preventing a fire.

Sent from my SM-G530T using Tapatalk

 

[75gmck25]

The discussion raises a related question. Standard duplex receptacles are rated for 15 amps with 20 amp pass through, so they can be used on a 20 amp circuit. Does a typical 15 amp GFCI receptacle have the same type of rating for 20 amp pass through? So the only reason for a 20 amp GFCI is to get the 20 amp receptacle form factor, which would not be necessary in a kitchen?

Bruce

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Yes ive seen 15a GFCIs with 20a pass thru

 

[alfredeneuman]

I've never seen a 15A GFI without a 20A pass through rating

 

[dscheidt]

I've never seen a 15A GFI without a 20A pass through rating

You won't, either. it's a UL listing requirement.