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Replace decking or also framing for 20 year old deck?

Innovate1

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Wanting to replace decking with composite and wondering if I should replace the framing too. I did some work on the decking a couple years ago and there is some rot in the screw holes but otherwise the framing looks good. They didn't use joist tape. Was thinking best would be to replace framing but cost would be a lot more. Wondering if joist tape and new decking and railings is a reasonable plan with selective replacement of bad lumber - probably the stair stringers. When we take off the decking it will be more obvious but wondered what people here thought...
 
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Old tool guy

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How far apart are the joists, and is that compatible with the composite decking you have selected? I did this about 5 yrs ago with my deck, found more rot than i had planned for and overspanned joists, ended up replacing quite a few joists, added hangers to all, and added a mid-span beam. I have a palm nailer, it was really helpful for the hanger nails.
 
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Innovate1

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Joists are 16" spacing so that should be ok. I know some recommend closer even with straight (non-angled) decking but 16" meets decking manufacturer specs and we haven't had any issues with that. Current decking is early composite off brand with face screws. A lot of the end screws cracked the decking and they generally just did a poor job of finishing. Another decision is composite or aluminum railing - aluminum seems to be the most popular. The composite shows a lot of small cracking/crazing of the finish - seems mostly cosmetic not structural but wondering how the aluminum will look over time with a few unavoidable scratches and such.
 

Old tool guy

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I bought low cost material from home depot, it spans the 16” with no problem. I used the individual T clips at each joist location, except for the standard screws being to skinny and short, they work well. I was able to find similar screws that are one number bigger dia and 1” longer, seem to hold well.
 

carlaisle

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You're considering installing new decking over deteriorated structure?

"There is some rot in the screw holes but otherwise the framing looks good."

Do you anticipate that rot will improve once you install the new decking?
 

mikedodge

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If the framing is still good don't bother replacing it. If some of it is rotted or bad fix it. If a lot of it is bad go all new.
I wouldn't even be thinking about it until you've started to pull the decking off and see what it's really like, unless you already know there are issues.
 

jar944

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If the framing is still good don't bother replacing it. If some of it is rotted or bad fix it. If a lot of it is bad go all new.
I wouldn't even be thinking about it until you've started to pull the decking off and see what it's really like, unless you already know there are issues.
Spending 10-20k on decking that can't be reused once installed to save 2k in framing lumber doesn't make sense.
 
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CraigStu

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Well yeah, maybe replacing the framing is a good idea but then how about the posts? Replace them too? Are the posts in the ground or on concrete piers? If he uses the hidden fasteners that fit in the grooves on the sides of the decking boards I think the decking could be reused.
 

firebirdparts

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FWIW My decking has edge clips and so it could be reused if anybody wanted to. Not that it matters.

To the OP, I favor replace the framing, but if you don't, your life will probably be just fine for a long time.
 

AC-WC

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Perhaps this will give some guidance?
We put a lower deck on the back of the house 20+ years ago. Maybe 5 yrs ago 2 or 3 of the floor boards rotted through. Got to it 2 weeks ago. I'm now down to staining the rails and ballisters.

Under the rotted floor boards were 2 joists that were rotted maybe an 1" at the top. I sistered 2X8's in the areas in question as the balance of all the joists were solid. You can see staining from old screws but they were not rotted.

Ended up taping all joists and added Trex but do not recommend the T screws they supply. Trying to get all the T's lined up in the slots for each board was a PITA. Had to enroll a couple helpers to get them going. When I get to the upper deck I will be using the Camo fastening tool. All of the framing is PT wood. Be sure to get an impact driver, huge difference between that and a drill/screw gun.
To help with your budgeting this small 10X10 was just over $1k for materials. Screws for Trex are NOT cheap ($50/box X 2 boxes). Camo isn't much better.
 

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Davefr

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Replace the substructure! The material cost is a fraction of the price of the decking and railing and it goes pretty quickly. Maybe you can save the existing footings and ledger. (ex: I just rebuilt our old deck. substructure material was about $1k, decking was $4k and railing was $2k, misc was probably another $1k) Pro's quoted me between $28-40k!!

I prefer aluminun railing because it's smaller then these "fat" composite pieces. I went with Aria aluminum railing special ordered from HD and it was excellent quality and pretty easy DIY installation.
 

jar944

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it also doesn't make sense to replace the framing if there's nothing wrong with it.
Treated lumber has a finite lifespan, 20 year old lumber is on borrowed time. To spend any money on decking which should last 50 years and installing it on framing that you will be exceptionally lucky to get 10 more years out of seems fiscally irresponsible.

I suppose if you are flipping thr property it makes financial sense, but otherwise 🤔
 

mikedodge

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Treated lumber has a finite lifespan, 20 year old lumber is on borrowed time. To spend any money on decking which should last 50 years and installing it on framing that you will be exceptionally lucky to get 10 more years out of seems fiscally irresponsible.

I suppose if you are flipping thr property it makes financial sense, but otherwise 🤔

Expecting it to last 50 years is like expecting shingles to last their stated life span. It rarely lasts that long.
Maybe I missed it but I don't receall seeing anywhere where he actually said the size of the deck. Looking at his other post to try to find that I see stairs involved and with the questions he's asking it doesn't seem like he's going to be doing it all himself so it's not going to be a minimal cost to replace everything and could add a substantial amount onto the overall cost. If it's still in good shape now it still has a decent amount of life left.
 

Uncle murph

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Wanting to replace decking with composite and wondering if I should replace the framing too. I did some work on the decking a couple years ago and there is some rot in the screw holes but otherwise the framing looks good. They didn't use joist tape. Was thinking best would be to replace framing but cost would be a lot more. Wondering if joist tape and new decking and railings is a reasonable plan with selective replacement of bad lumber - probably the stair stringers. When we take off the decking it will be more obvious but wondered what people here thought...
Pre 2003 treated lumber is tough to beat,I replace decking on it all the time.The new treated stuff is pretty much a joke,I’ve seen it fail in less than ten years and sometimes as few as five with carpenter bees in it in less than a year.If the old frame is solid, I would put joist tape over it and replace the decking.
 

Whitworth

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Dec 26, 2011
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If you keep the old framing, make an effort (lazer level) to check the joists for level and in the same plane.

They tend to sag and twist after several years, but shimming and/or power planer will easily fix in most cases.
 

BillK

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I didnt read everything but before you decide on material I would get a piece of composite decking you are thinking about and put it in place on your 16"oc joists and see how it feels. When I redecked my deck about 10 years ago I was going to go with a composite but I tried a piece and it had too much give for my liking and my joists are 16" oc. I ended up using PT decking and it is fine. My deck is close to 40 years old and there is no sign of any issues with the joists. But I think the PT from back when I first built it was a lot better than what is out there now.
 

PCustoms

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This is one of those times where pics help....

I assume my porch was built in '86 with the house. Posts in ground and decking where it had no gap looked bad, plus everything was worn. Pulled the decking off, fixed a couple cracked joists, added hangers and ledgerloks. Bottom got pier extensions poured and new 6x6 to get everything off the ground, topside got tape and new wood.

At 10'x56' I wasn't reframing it. When this decking looks like **** in 10-15yrs it will probably need a new frame.
 
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