Replace ramp on aluminum horse trailer
- Thread starter racerboy
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So here are some more pictures that show the damage to the frame. It looks like it is made up of three different pieces of aluminum.
One is a C-channel that is 1”x1.5”. This is what the wood and the aluminum skin sit in. It is 3mm thick
The second one is more of an L-channel that is .75”x.75”. This is the piece that all the hinge loops are welded to, and then this is welded to the bottom of the C-channel.
I can’t figure out what the third piece would be but I think it is a flat piece of aluminum that goes between the C-channel and L-channel.
The plywood is 3/4” and I think the laminate is PVC because of the way it snaps apart. The PVC looks like it’s 1mm (ea side).
The door frame is 78.5” wide and 48.75 tall.
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One is a C-channel that is 1”x1.5”. This is what the wood and the aluminum skin sit in. It is 3mm thick
The second one is more of an L-channel that is .75”x.75”. This is the piece that all the hinge loops are welded to, and then this is welded to the bottom of the C-channel.
I can’t figure out what the third piece would be but I think it is a flat piece of aluminum that goes between the C-channel and L-channel.
The plywood is 3/4” and I think the laminate is PVC because of the way it snaps apart. The PVC looks like it’s 1mm (ea side).
The door frame is 78.5” wide and 48.75 tall.
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sqznby
Well-known member
I wouldn't agree to do what he wants if that was not your original plan.
This does not seem to be that difficult to fix, even though I cant see everything, still seems pretty straight forward.
The plywood was definitely inserted before final welding. If he's scared to weld it, I'd try to find someone else. Obviously, he's not very confident in his abilities. A little water on the back side would prevent any extensive burning.
Did he see everything involved in this project?
sqznby asked about my MIG welder. It’s a Millermatic 211
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Very cool. I believe there is a spool gun specific to that machine
sqznby
Well-known member
That's typical haha, I see it all the time because everyone comes to me for those jobs.
I know finding machine specific components for Miller will be a bit on the high side.
But, I'm one to use only certain brands because in the long run it will pay for itself.
If you don't plan on doing a lot of aluminum work, I found this, may be worth a looksy. I'm not 100% but Hobart parts may also be compatible to your machine as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RVF6YZJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Please do a little research before buying, I'd hate to steer you in the wrong direction.
I know finding machine specific components for Miller will be a bit on the high side.
But, I'm one to use only certain brands because in the long run it will pay for itself.
If you don't plan on doing a lot of aluminum work, I found this, may be worth a looksy. I'm not 100% but Hobart parts may also be compatible to your machine as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RVF6YZJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20
Please do a little research before buying, I'd hate to steer you in the wrong direction.
sqznby
Well-known member
Smart move, you wont regret it.
Good idea.
Read through the owners manual as well. Get a baseline to work with and go from there. Remember to always push your puddle with a spool gun to get maximum gas coverage. You'll also need a tank of argon.
Here's one for yah
Good idea.
Read through the owners manual as well. Get a baseline to work with and go from there. Remember to always push your puddle with a spool gun to get maximum gas coverage. You'll also need a tank of argon.
Here's one for yah
sqznby
Well-known member
Personally, I'm all about having more than I need.
Its better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it
Is that spool gun compatible to your machine?
sqznby
Well-known member
Nice
What size wire does it use?
Hmm bigger wire isn't always better. If you were burning 1/4" plate/sheet I'd go for the bigger but, for what you're doing you may want to get the original one you were looking at. Even future work it will come in handy. If I remember correctly that's what my spool gun uses. When I was building aluminum gas tanks I used a larger wire spool set up but, that was for 1/4" sheet and they were up to 900 gallon tanks.
sqznby
Well-known member
Sounds like a plan man.
Good luck and post up your progress pics and if you have any questions feel free to ask away.
Good luck and post up your progress pics and if you have any questions feel free to ask away.
So my spoolgun and wire came today. I also picked up a tank of 100% argon. My aluminum C-channel and angle came yesterday. Tomorrow, I am going to get some scrap aluminum C-channel to start practicing.
Here’s my overall plan:
1. Purchase pressure treated wood. May consider epoxy painting it for added durability/protection.
2. Cut one corner of frame so that I can wrap frM around new pressure treated wood.
3. Rivet the frame to the wood (like original)
4. Weld up where I cut the door, as well as where it is broken.
Even if I don’t do the actual welding, does it make sense to rivet the frame to the door so that it is ready for welding, or would you weld it first and then rivet it. I though by doing that first, it would sort of hold it tight. Does that make sense?
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Here’s my overall plan:
1. Purchase pressure treated wood. May consider epoxy painting it for added durability/protection.
2. Cut one corner of frame so that I can wrap frM around new pressure treated wood.
3. Rivet the frame to the wood (like original)
4. Weld up where I cut the door, as well as where it is broken.
Even if I don’t do the actual welding, does it make sense to rivet the frame to the door so that it is ready for welding, or would you weld it first and then rivet it. I though by doing that first, it would sort of hold it tight. Does that make sense?
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sqznby
Well-known member
As long as everything lines up and you have tight fitment, makes sense to me.
Hi everyone. Things got really crazy at the end of last year (NDA filing) so I never got back to my trailer ramp until last weekend. Here’s what I did:
Bought a piece of 4x8 treated plywood and cut it to size (hopefully).
I cut one corner of the aluminum frame so It is in two pieces so I could wrap entire frame around wood.
I used my new Spool Gun to weld the broken hinge back onto frame. My welds are not very pretty, but hopefully they are strong enough. I did spend a lot of time filing and cleaning with a stainless brush before I welded.
Here are some pictures of the corner I split to (I will weld this back together).
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Bought a piece of 4x8 treated plywood and cut it to size (hopefully).
I cut one corner of the aluminum frame so It is in two pieces so I could wrap entire frame around wood.
I used my new Spool Gun to weld the broken hinge back onto frame. My welds are not very pretty, but hopefully they are strong enough. I did spend a lot of time filing and cleaning with a stainless brush before I welded.
Here are some pictures of the corner I split to (I will weld this back together).
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Since I couldn’t find any plywood that came laminated, I just went with pressure-treated wood. That said, one thing I noticed is that the plywood that was in the trailer still seems like it was thicker than the 3/4 I bought. I will take a photo later to compare. My friend said that the wood I removed probably swelled from years of absorbing water. This might be true, but it also looks like it has 2 more plies in it. The 3/4 I bought fits pretty snug in the c-channel frame, but I wonder if I should have used 7/8? Also, the 3/4 doesn’t seem to be that sturdy. Can it really hold a 1500 lb. horse?
My other question has to do with the metal sheet that would cover the wood and what you would see if you were standing behind the trailer and the ramp was closed. I thought this was a sheet of aluminum, but is it possible that it is stainless steel? It is pretty thin, but quite rigid. How can I tell which material it is?
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My other question has to do with the metal sheet that would cover the wood and what you would see if you were standing behind the trailer and the ramp was closed. I thought this was a sheet of aluminum, but is it possible that it is stainless steel? It is pretty thin, but quite rigid. How can I tell which material it is?
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I think I answered my own question about the metal sheet. Pretty sure it’s aluminum because a magnet does not stick to it and it’s relatively soft. I can dig into it with a screwdriver pretty easily. Now my next question is, how do I tell what type of alloy it is? I went to OnlineMetals.com just to see how much a sheet would cost, but there are so many different aluminum sheets.
As far as the wood goes, here’s a photo of the old wood with the laminated a new piece of 3/4 treated plywood
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As far as the wood goes, here’s a photo of the old wood with the laminated a new piece of 3/4 treated plywood
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I made some good progress this past weekend. The ramp is more or less all back together. I still have to add the cam latches as well as the rubber mat, but figured I’d do that once it is mounted on the trailer.
The original ramp had this ‘glow in the dark’ kind of tape that was red and silver. It was clearly there as a safety item. Any idea where I can find this?
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sqznby
Well-known member
Nicely done man, looks great.
Try Gemplers.com for some safety tape or google may find a better source. I like Gemplers
Try Gemplers.com for some safety tape or google may find a better source. I like Gemplers
510ebl
Well-known member
One source for reflective tape below, or Amazon
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/RE18T.html
Hecht trailer in Toms River probably has it on the shelf.
https://www.gohechtshop.com/
If you still need material, check Fazzio’s in Glassboro or Wall. They might stock the tape, too.
https://www.shopjfi.com/howell-nj-steel-metal
https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Lights/Optronics/RE18T.html
Hecht trailer in Toms River probably has it on the shelf.
https://www.gohechtshop.com/
If you still need material, check Fazzio’s in Glassboro or Wall. They might stock the tape, too.
https://www.shopjfi.com/howell-nj-steel-metal
Last edited:
Harbor Freight has strips of the tape also if you have one nearby.
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-reflective-tape-97562.html
https://www.harborfreight.com/10-piece-reflective-tape-97562.html
claas880
Well-known member
door is looking real nice.
Monza Harry
Well-known member
The original plywood appears to be "G1S" good 1 side that would have more plys. and the outermost most plys would be sanded down smooth. Also the original does appear to have"sucked up" a few gallons of water. The tape should be on the shelf of most truck and/or trailer places. It is commonly called "conspicuity tape" Harry
I got the tape from Amazon. I was able to get the ramp back on the trailer. My last question has to do with stapling the heavy rubber mat to the plywood. The staples are narrow, but much longer than a regular staple. The rubber mat is 1/2 in. thick which makes me think I need some kind of pneumatic stapler to get the staples through.
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Hi everyone, I'm revisiting this topic 1.5 years later because my repair only made it through two winters. I've decided rather than fixing the broken bottom channel, I want to replace it in its entirety. The bottom channel is like an upside down "h" and the wood sits in the channel. Then there is a piece of aluminum angle that is welded to the long part of the upside down "h". The hinge barrels (where the long hinge pin slides through) are welded to this angle. THE long part of the "h" has a curve to it, but I'm guessing this is only decorative. You can sort of see it in the picture below. Does anyone know where I can order this 'h' shape aluminum channel? I'm not opposed to building a completely new frame, so it doesn't have to be exactly the same, with the little curve, image, but it has to attach to the trailer using the long hinge rod (approx. 76", whish is the width of the trailer.
The entire frame of the ramp is made of the "h" shape, but only the bottom section has the angle welded to it for the hinge barrels.
I also included some of the dimensions in the picture.
Thanks!
The entire frame of the ramp is made of the "h" shape, but only the bottom section has the angle welded to it for the hinge barrels.
I also included some of the dimensions in the picture.
Thanks!
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Wrench97
Well-known member
Looking at the earlier pictures the wood panel look like metal clad semi trailer swing door panels > https://www.nudo.com/resources/p30_product_data.pdf
Does the trailer manufacturer offer any parts for the door frame?
Does the trailer manufacturer offer any parts for the door frame?
If all you’re doing is using it to haul and store hay, then why don’t you just leave it off? No offense intended, but you do not have the welding skills for this project. If it breaks while you or your kids are opening or closing it, you run the risk of injury to them or to yourself. If it breaks while your going down the road and goes through the windshield of the orphanage bus behind you, that’s about a hundred kinds of bad. Do all the prep work, and then get somebody with the right equipment and the skills to use it to burn it in.Unfortunately, the trailer manufacturer is no longer in business.
Wrench97
Well-known member
It's probably a modified extrusion either by or for the trailer manufacturer was pretty common years back.
Morgan body used a similar looking piece on FRP bodies.
But I can't tell if the thickness is the same.> http://www.truckline-sale.com/extrusions.php
Morgan body used a similar looking piece on FRP bodies.
But I can't tell if the thickness is the same.> http://www.truckline-sale.com/extrusions.php