Replacement Batter Charger Clamps

[Onator]

My Craftsman battery charger/starter cables broke off at the clamp again and I’m looking for a better plan this time. The original one’s are the crimp type. Do I go with a screw attachment this time? This is the second time they’ve let go. They’re breaking right where the bare wire leaves the insulation. I’m confident that I’m not compromising the wire when I strip the insulation and that I’m leaving enough insulated wire in the clamp handle for support. Maybe I’m flexing it there too much when I’m wrapping the cords for storage?? Anyway-anyone have a solid replacement clamp they recommend. *These are the mini clamps-not the hand size.

 

[MarineScott]

Use heat shrink tubing on the wire before you solder the wires to the clamp, avoiding the "hinging effect" of the wire at the end of the clamp.

 

[rlitman]

First off, don't solder a crimp. Solder wicks up the wires, stiffening them, leading to this issue.

Second, use heavy wall heat shrink tubing (they sell this for marine battery cables) to protect the wire between the insulation and the crimp. Even when properly crimped, crimping keeps the strands from sliding against each other, so the wire will feel stiffer when the crimp is completed, and you need to reduce bending in this constrained spot, or else you'll get tearing.

 

[larry_g]

Good clamps will have a crimp on the wire and another on the insulation that will prevent flex at the bare wire. If you can't find those then use shrink wrap over the whole thing to hold the insulation against the clamp arm. It's all about strain relief and bend radius.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[rlitman]

Good clamps will have a crimp on the wire and another on the insulation that will prevent flex at the bare wire. If you can't find those then use shrink wrap over the whole thing to hold the insulation against the clamp arm. It's all about strain relief and bend radius.

What I've seen on some battery clamps, and on my welding group clamps, is a spot where you can wrap a band around the insulation. If your clamp has a spot for that, some heavy zip ties will help.

The thing is, the wire is much more able to flex a few inches away from the crimp than it is near the end. Not to mention the fact that the insulation itself helps with the bend radius, where the bare wire is a real stress riser. Still, any point where the wire is subjected to more bending than other points is an issue, so heat shrink tubing (or even a piece of hose) under this strap will still help.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The best ones are made by Mueller. Not cheap, but they will last your life time !

The BU-46A (-0 for black, -2 for red) will handle 10 AWG wire and are copper plated steel. The BU-46C (-0 for black, -2 for red) are solid copper.

Mueller makes larger battery "clips" that will handle 0 AWG !

(BU-60 was your standard "roach clip" !)

 

[rlitman]

The best ones are made by Mueller. Not cheap, but they will last your life time !

The BU-46A (-0 for black, -2 for red) will handle 10 AWG wire and are copper plated steel. The BU-46C (-0 for black, -2 for red) are solid copper.

Mueller makes larger battery "clips" that will handle 0 AWG !

(BU-60 was your standard "roach clip" !)

I've always been a fan of Mueller clips. Append an L to that part number for fully insulated ones:
https://www.muellerelectric.com/products/bu-46a-0l