New here so hopefully this isn't already being talked about can't find it anywhere. I'm in the process of replacing both torsion springs on my garage door after one snapped but when I tighten the set screws after winding spring 30 times the springs still want to unwind and not stay in place. Answers and any info are greatly appreciated been trying to figure this out for days
Replacement torsion spring help!
- Thread starter Jj3344
- Start date
Here's about 80 how-to vids:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=garage+door+torsion+spring+replacement
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https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=garage+door+torsion+spring+replacement
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Wrench97
Well-known member
30 rounds seems excessive to me unless you mean 30, 1/4 turns?
Is the shaft turning or just the spring?
Is the shaft turning or just the spring?
Ive watched plenty videos and have done everything in those videos but the spring still won't stay just wants to keep unwinding that's what brought me here
Yea 30 quarter turns. Are you asking if the shaft is spinning while winding it?
Wrench97
Well-known member
No after tightening the screws is the shaft turning too or just the spring fixture.
The shaft is turning as well
That's good to know...
I think the other spring may have to be wound too, before the torque tube stops turning...
Could be wrong here, I'll watch a vid and check back in later...
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I have only let it go back one quarter turn and yes both set screws are tightened
Make sure the cables did not slip off the outer drum. If they are still attached then watch the outer drum as you release the tension a little. It may take a few 1/4 turns to put the load on.
OK, watched one vid (the 1st) and the guy continued tightening the setscrews an additional 1/2 turn, affectively denting the torque tube.That's good to know...
I think the other spring may have to be wound too, before the torque tube stops turning...
Could be wrong here, I'll watch a vid and check back in later...
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Are you doing that?
just askin'
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Yea there definitely tight that's what I don't understandOK, watched one vid (the 1st) and the guy continued tightening the setscrews an additional 1/2 turn, affectively denting the torque tube.
Are you doing that?
That dent is what keeps the collar from slipping on the shaft.
just askin'
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nadogail
Well-known member
i use Experienced Licensed and Insured professionals for torsion spring replacement. Too easy for a Rookie to get hurt.
Could the torsion tube be slipping in the cable pulleys?
Those set screws (2 each pulley) have to be tight enough to dimple the torque tube also, or it will slip too.
Just askin
If all those things are tight the tension in the wound-up spring would be raising the door via the cables.
that's all I have, so yoyo now.
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whateg01
Well-known member
I'm not sure what you don't understand. If the set screws are tight, then the whole thing should turn together. If the pulleys are turning with the rest of the assembly, then it should be winding up the cable until it is taut. Is that not happening?
Wrench97
Well-known member
Are you sure you wound the spring in the correct direction?
jstroede
Well-known member
I might be misunderstanding what is going on, but you don't tighten the set screws on the spring until after you tension them.
1. Lock door to floor and use vise grips on shaft so it doesn't turn
2. Wrap cables on left and right drums until cables are tight. Tighten set screws.
3. Find relaxed position of spring. Apply correct number of turns. Tighten set screws.
4. Remove vise grips and unlock door
5. Operate door, adjust as needed
That is the quick and dirty steps.
john
1. Lock door to floor and use vise grips on shaft so it doesn't turn
2. Wrap cables on left and right drums until cables are tight. Tighten set screws.
3. Find relaxed position of spring. Apply correct number of turns. Tighten set screws.
4. Remove vise grips and unlock door
5. Operate door, adjust as needed
That is the quick and dirty steps.
john
Radio Flyer
Well-known member
could the spring be slipping on the cone?
I'm thinking the OP had some sort of epiphany, stumbled onto to what he was doing wrong, and it was something we all mentioned.
And the fix was so simple/obvious he's too embarrassed to tell us about it.
I enjoyed the ride though and would not expect him to turn in his man card over this.
I just wish he would post a follow-up.
How about it @Jj3344
jmo,
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And the fix was so simple/obvious he's too embarrassed to tell us about it.
I enjoyed the ride though and would not expect him to turn in his man card over this.
I just wish he would post a follow-up.
How about it @Jj3344
jmo,
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Recently had my torsion spring door get loose on one pulley and door was hangin' there with one end disconnected,
and the door obviously was in a BIND!!
After close inspection, I realized the set screws in the pulley were worn enough where they weren't getting a good "set" in
the shaft, allowing the pulley to just SIT, and not stay tight against the shaft......SOOOOO....I got brandy damn NEW
set screws, with a hex end (cap screw type) that I could definitely TIGHTEN with an ALLEN wrench instead of the funky
set screws that required use of a 3/8" open end wrench.....NOW I can tell it's a lot tighter, and haven't had one fkn
problem since!! Years ago I replaced the springs all by myself, so I've had a fair amount of experience on these puppies!!
and the door obviously was in a BIND!!
After close inspection, I realized the set screws in the pulley were worn enough where they weren't getting a good "set" in
the shaft, allowing the pulley to just SIT, and not stay tight against the shaft......SOOOOO....I got brandy damn NEW
set screws, with a hex end (cap screw type) that I could definitely TIGHTEN with an ALLEN wrench instead of the funky
set screws that required use of a 3/8" open end wrench.....NOW I can tell it's a lot tighter, and haven't had one fkn
problem since!! Years ago I replaced the springs all by myself, so I've had a fair amount of experience on these puppies!!