Replacing a table on an Ridgid RS1000 RAS and adding stops

[kcinnick]

I want to replace the top on a Ridgied RAS I just picked up. It has the original MDF top and it has gotten wet in places and that is just no good. The top is 1" and comes in 3 pieces plus a 3/4" board for a fence. I honestly don't know enough about the saw to know why you need the 3 table top pieces (I know it moves the "fence" but why I am unsure of. I would like to replace it with a 48" wide piece of plywood and I guess I will go with the original 3 piece table top design, is there any reason I can't go down to a 3/4" top? I could always laminate 2 pieces of 1/2" material together but nothing is available locally at 1", at least that I saw.

Second I would like to add some sort of stop system. I have seen stop systems that mount on the fence but that would be prone to excess movement, I would like to attach something to the fixed portion of the table. Is there an affordable, easy to install track/stop system you would recommend?

Thanks

 

[rharman]

You want the 3 pieces so you can get more depth for rip cuts. I think 3/4" would not be stable enough, especially after you have some blade grooves in it. Stacking two 1/2" pieces would work well as long as they are adequately glued and clamped. 3/4" screws should give you enough margin on the top for blade grooves. Have you checked a "real" lumberyard? Probably a better source for 1" material than a big box store.

As to stops, I never went with anything fancy - just clamp a board. I don't know why you're averse to mounting a stop on the fence. Just look at any drill press table and that's how it's done. A track on the face of the fence or along the top edge would work fine. My RAS is long gone (I miss it though) but I'd have no problem doing stops like this - I did it for my drill press when I made a larger table. Rockler is a good source for parts.

 

[kcinnick]

You want the 3 pieces so you can get more depth for rip cuts. I think 3/4" would not be stable enough, especially after you have some blade grooves in it. Stacking two 1/2" pieces would work well as long as they are adequately glued and clamped. 3/4" screws should give you enough margin on the top for blade grooves. Have you checked a "real" lumberyard? Probably a better source for 1" material than a big box store.

As to stops, I never went with anything fancy - just clamp a board. I don't know why you're averse to mounting a stop on the fence. Just look at any drill press table and that's how it's done. A track on the face of the fence or along the top edge would work fine. My RAS is long gone (I miss it though) but I'd have no problem doing stops like this - I did it for my drill press when I made a larger table. Rockler is a good source for parts.

Only reason I was worried about using the fence was that the fence can move on a RAS! I think I am over that, I used this saw today for the first time, OMG is it so much better than a miter saw. I will still use the miter saw for quick 45's but and straight cut is goin on the RAS. I might even use if for ripping after reading the manual. I want to do dados with it, but I am throwing my dado stack in the table saw for my current project later this afternoon. Waiting on glue to dry, it's probably good to go so I'll give it another hour... I'd hate to unclamp prematurely. Local lumbar yards are WIPED out. I do have a locally owned and operated large hardware store with a nice lumber selection but they are getting in stuff like 5 pallets of 3/4" birch but no 1/2", I had to pay more than I paid for the 3/4 birch from the local place at home depot to get the 2 1/2" birch sheets I needed. I can laminate 1/2 boards together no problem, I have plenty. I might even laminate some 3/4, I have some that is slightly weathered with just a few screw holes in it that could work.

 

[jbfsr]

If you rip on the RAS be sure to use the anti kickback devices. If it kicks back, the pieces really fly.

 

[RTM]

The dado stack is one place where the RAS shines. Since you want the final board to be a fixed depth, cutting down seems to work much better than the TS, where you are removing a fixed depth. Seems especially true when using lumber yard boards which aren't always even, and you are trying to hold down the board to the cutter, vs being between the blade and a hard place.

And on top of jbfsr's warning, your are working in a confined area when ripping, between the blade and the column, so be VERY careful of where your hands are relative to the blade. Push sticks are your friend.

 

[rharman]

Oh yeah, watch your hands and arms. If that blade decides to climb, and sooner or later it will, it's coming to get you.

 

[captaindiode]

A negative hook blade is a good idea on a RAS.

 

[Bert_]

The dado stack is one place where the RAS shines. Since you want the final board to be a fixed depth, cutting down seems to work much better than the TS, where you are removing a fixed depth. Seems especially true when using lumber yard boards which aren't always even, and you are trying to hold down the board to the cutter, vs being between the blade and a hard place.

And on top of jbfsr's warning, your are working in a confined area when ripping, between the blade and the column, so be VERY careful of where your hands are relative to the blade. Push sticks are your friend.

I finally picked one up last fall. I decided the radial arm saw is the only tool to use for cross cut dados on a board more than a few feet long. It really is great.

I like your thoughts on depth too