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Replacing bench grinder on/off switch ??'s

dimwittedmoose51

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 31, 2011
Messages
107
Location
Cedar Falls IA
Bought an old Cummins(likely not related to the diesel folks) 4 amp 6" bench grinder on ebay and it came damaged and the seller refunded my money which was nice of them. Main casualty was the on off switch which I wouldn't be able to find in a million years(try finding a Cummins grinder via google!). The tool rest adjustment bolts have 12mm heads on them, so it's likely this thing taint made in the US of A. Anyway, the switch appeared to be pretty heavy duty as my newbie electrician eyes could see, but I settled for a 20amp single throw double pole toggle switch from Philmore(Rockford IL), but have no idea how to set up the wiring, as the old switch had no numbers to match the new switch. The grinder has two red wires coming from the electric motor(or capacitor in this case) and a black and red wire(and a ground attached to the housing) coming from the plug. I've wired it one way which seemed to make sense and I flipped the switch and popped the GFI, so I'm going to get some help from the gurus. No, I didn't write down the wire positionings for the first try.

The new switch has no schematic, but does have the screw terminals numbered 1,3,4, and 6. The 1 and 4 are side by side in the middle of the housing and the 3/6 are off to one side. Since it''s obvious that there is a right and wrong way to wire this thing, can someone out there help me get the right wires on the correct terminals before I mess things up any further. Common sense would tell me that having the red/black wired to the 1/4 and the motor wires to the 3/6, but maybe red /black goes to 1/3 and the motor wires to the 4/6. Also wondering if the motor wires' position makes a difference in which direction the motor spins? Yeah, I'm a novice at electricity, but can follow clear and concise directions.

If the 4 numbers don't mean anything, then I guess I could run 12v dc through everything and see if a less hazardous voltage would be more experiment-friendly. Do that continuity thing and all with a 12v automotive bulb.

In the mean time, I'll fabricate an ABS plate for the new switch to be mounted on and make it look half way sanitary.

TIA

DM&FS
 
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