I measured my overhead garage door and it measures 10x9. I would like to replace it. Can you just replace the panels themselves. The frame and track is fine so why couldn't you just switch the panels out? I haven't been able to fine a 10x9 at Lowes.com or HomeDepot.com. Am I gonna have to talk to a local door company?
Replacing garage door?
- Thread starter locomike
- Start date
Can you just replace the panels as I mentioned? Is that something they would do? Can't see the point in taking down the whole frame and such if it's gonna be going in the same place? I have pretty much done my interior makeover and am starting on the exterior. Maybe new door, couple windows, paint, soffit and fascia and such. Might just paint the door if it is gonna be too much money.
gsport
Well-known member
depending on how many panels there are, it may be cheaper to just buy the whole set-up, and then just use the panels... i had to replace 4 panels on my 12x14 door and paid just a little less than the cost of the whole shabang.... check around the different door companys for your best price...
Just to be sure on the pricing you get, measure each of the panels on your existing door.
(They may not all be the same height.)
Be sure you get the thickness!
Take those measurmeents to you big box and ask if they can special order for you.
You can problel use the old roller brackets on the door, but now would be the time to upgrade the rollers themselves.
Again, match the old ones for shaft dia, length, roller dia, etc.
I still like the solid feel of the old wood panel doors.
But some of the new, insulated steel ones are tempting.
(They may not all be the same height.)
Be sure you get the thickness!
Take those measurmeents to you big box and ask if they can special order for you.
You can problel use the old roller brackets on the door, but now would be the time to upgrade the rollers themselves.
Again, match the old ones for shaft dia, length, roller dia, etc.
I still like the solid feel of the old wood panel doors.
But some of the new, insulated steel ones are tempting.
nova65ss
Well-known member
Really depends on what you are replacing and what you plan to replace it with. Most wood doors are 1 3/8" thick and alot of metal doors are 2" thick. At that point you would need to shim the tracks away from the wall. You will also need to make sure they weigh the same or the springs will not be right either. If you get an Amarr door they use finger pinch resistant hinges and the old standard hinges will not really work.
Better off getting it complete the hardware will not be more than 75 to 100 more for everything.
Better off getting it complete the hardware will not be more than 75 to 100 more for everything.
A few things to help you determine if you can replace just the door panels:
What is the thickness of the existing door compared to the door you want to purchase? If your existing door is the older wood style, they typically are 1-3/8" thick. The new steel doors vary in thickness, from 1" to 2". Your track spacing is based on your door thickness. Using your track with a 2" thick door may require spacers behind the track mounting brackets to make up the difference.
Depending on the weight of your existing door, and the weight of the new door, your existing springs may be too strong, or too weak. Springs are calibrated for the specific weight of a particular door. You may have a problem balancing your new door if you use the old springs.
Age of the remaining components. You don't want to start getting nickel and dimed to death having to replace the hinges and rollers, which can get to be expensive buying them individually. If the roller wheel on the shaft wobbles, the ball bearing are shot, and it should be replaced.
The big box stores only stock standard 8x7, 9x7, and ocasionally 16x7. Any other size and you will pay a premium. You may want to consider getting a cash and carry price from your local dealer. They will usually give you a better installed price as well.
What is the thickness of the existing door compared to the door you want to purchase? If your existing door is the older wood style, they typically are 1-3/8" thick. The new steel doors vary in thickness, from 1" to 2". Your track spacing is based on your door thickness. Using your track with a 2" thick door may require spacers behind the track mounting brackets to make up the difference.
Depending on the weight of your existing door, and the weight of the new door, your existing springs may be too strong, or too weak. Springs are calibrated for the specific weight of a particular door. You may have a problem balancing your new door if you use the old springs.
Age of the remaining components. You don't want to start getting nickel and dimed to death having to replace the hinges and rollers, which can get to be expensive buying them individually. If the roller wheel on the shaft wobbles, the ball bearing are shot, and it should be replaced.
The big box stores only stock standard 8x7, 9x7, and ocasionally 16x7. Any other size and you will pay a premium. You may want to consider getting a cash and carry price from your local dealer. They will usually give you a better installed price as well.
nonhog
Well-known member
All I can say is shop around ! I found a 200 $ differance in garage door openers from one local co. to the others ! I know your talking about doors not openers but the same may apply.
I found one close to home for the cheapest, hows that for luck ?
I found one close to home for the cheapest, hows that for luck ?