Finished renovating my kitchen, looking to do my windows now. Almost all box stores have windows for rough opening heights of 38", which tells me that's common. My rough height is 37.25" the width is 28 which is common, but the height on 2 of them is short. Id like to avoid ordering custom windows (about 100 bucks more each) and I did find that some box stores sell them with an actual height of 37.25", which is exactly what my opening is. Should I chance it being that tight? Any way to rasp down the window say 1/8" inch or do something with the frame? These are replacement windows without a nail flange
Replacing kitchen windows.. Off rough opening?
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6768rogues
Banned
If you have enough room above your countertop or backsplash, remove the 2x4 at the bottom of the rough opening and substitute a 1x4.
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Go to the store and measure the actual value of the height on their window that takes a 38" rough opening. The rough opening dimension has a little slack in it, to allow for getting the window centered and installed plumb and level.
Then, go home and check your rough opening to see how plumb and level it is. If you're lucky, there may be enough fudging factor to let the new window fit in your old opening.
Then, go home and check your rough opening to see how plumb and level it is. If you're lucky, there may be enough fudging factor to let the new window fit in your old opening.
Radix2
Well-known member
A sawzall can cut the opening bigger without much issue. Get a good stiff blade and open it up as needed.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
^^^ Agreed. It sounds like you're doing an insert, not remove and replace into rough opening.
I know $100 is not pocket change, but ordering a properly sized window is so much nice than hacking away to make something fit.... money well spent IMO
tcianci
Well-known member
Guys, he's looking to install a replacement window so he has no access to the framing. OP, if you look at the construction of the replacement window, you will see that the top of the window usually has a channel type feature to it with the inner and outer edges of the window jamb being proud of the main section of the jamb. they cut down beautifully with a simple block plane.
alwaysFlOoReD
Well-known member
Terminology matters.
A "rough opening" is measured from framing member to framing member...the 2x4 inside the wall.
The "replacement windows" without a nail flange are probably "insert" windows that are meant to fit inside of the original windows' "finish" framing. The window glass is removed and any filler strips also removed leaving the carcass of the original window frame in the rough opening and then the "insert" window is placed in the hole.
If this is an insert window then you can hack the old window frame to your hearts content, making the opening big enough to fit the window. I like about 3/8" space between new and old for low expanding foam. Of course by the time you figure your time for all the hacking and then fixing so it looks good, it may be money well spent to get the custom window. It depends on your skill level.
Not all windows are equal.
He could have a window with removable strip to to screw through on the brickmold. Replacing a window and changing the opening size usually hinge son siding type. You can usually put a taller window in with some work but not wider as the header is already set. Just order a proper sized window. Cut out what you have and if the siding is easily manipulated then measure the r.o. Size and order your window. Be a cheap *** and you'll have issues. Not install a window with less than 3/8" combined top and bottom at least. You'll be asking for trouble.
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tcianci
Well-known member
Please reference the OP's first post... He's installing a replacement window without a nail fin. The window he is trying to use fits into the existing jamb. More than once he references the sloped sill. If you're actually interested in helping this guy, you need to read and understand the post.
Many replacement windows are constructed exactly as I have described in my earlier post. I have "re-sized" many replacement windows on site with a block plane. It's a less than perfect world out there and sometimes things need to be modified.
This is certainly a thread that Zeke needs to weigh in on.
Have you installed a replacement window without a nail fin that has a removable strip brick mold? There is no reason this would not work? Much better of a seal and cleaner look then installing a window inside of the old ones frame. I thought I was helping....with my experience as a builder.
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I'm sorry my terminology isn't correct, as every so how window I have looked at that installs the way I'm talking is called a "replacement window" on every box stores website.
Tcianci:
Is there usually enough to take off 1/4 To 1/2" with a plane?
Also I found this window...
https://m.lowes.com/pd/ThermaStar-b...n-x-36-75-in-Actual-27-5-in-x-36-5-in/3119105
It's short... now I've never installed a window but I remember an old buddy installing one once, and his was too short but came with an extension that went on the top, like a cap, to fill the space... do windows usually come with these? Because I would only have to make up about 3/8-1/2 inch to get a good deal against the top stop
Tcianci:
Is there usually enough to take off 1/4 To 1/2" with a plane?
Also I found this window...
https://m.lowes.com/pd/ThermaStar-b...n-x-36-75-in-Actual-27-5-in-x-36-5-in/3119105
It's short... now I've never installed a window but I remember an old buddy installing one once, and his was too short but came with an extension that went on the top, like a cap, to fill the space... do windows usually come with these? Because I would only have to make up about 3/8-1/2 inch to get a good deal against the top stop
It's all good. Replacement windows up here can mean either ones with removable strip on brick mold or the ones you referenced. If it were mean I'd never install that in replacement to the type with an jntegrated brick mold. Just my preference.
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tcianci
Well-known member
The window in your link sounds like it would fit your opening. "Short" is a relative term. The window installs against a feature of the old window called the blind stop. If your new window is tall enough to overlap onto the blind stop of the head jamb, you're in good shape. If it doesn't quite make it, then you would use the head expander.
Replacement (insert) windows are usually supplied with 2 accessories, the terminology of either may vary by region. The 2 accessories are the sill extender and the head expander. The sill extender is just that, a piece plastic that fits onto the bottom outside rail of the window to allow the window to fit along the sloped sill of the old unit. When installed, the new window is essentially resting on the inner bottom rail and the bottom edge of the sill extender. Sill extenders are nominally sized for window sill with a slope of 14 or 15 degrees. Some manufacturers, like Andersen, actually ask for the sill slope when you order windows from them.
Some sill extenders are simply a vertical piece of plastic that snaps into a groove in the face of the bottom rail of the window and these extenders can be cut for a sill of shallow slope. Other sill extenders have an additional feature at the bottom that gives the extender more contact area against the sill and helps the extender to stay rigid. They too can be cut but the rigidity of the extender could be compromised.
The other accessory is the head expander, It is a vinyl channel that slips over the top rail of the window and it takes up any extra space between the top rail of the window and the head jamb of the old window. We typically insulate the voids at the sill extender and the head expander to optimize the efficiency of the window.
It sounds like in your case, you would be installing the window without the head expander since height is an issue. As I previously mentioned, the top edges of many replacement windows are raised above the main body of the rail itself and this feature can be trimmed off. It is however, unlikely that there's more than 1/4 of an inch to be had in this area. If you were to trim this feature at the inner and outer edges of the top rail of the window and the same feature at the inner edge of the lower rail and a corresponding amount from the bottom edge of the sill extender, it may be possible to "shrink" the window by about 3/8".
At this point you may understand why several have advised you to spring for the custom sized window. However, if your handy and adventurous, you may save yourself a few hundred bucks.
Last edited:
Thank you so much for your help! That window I posted isn't custom but is special order at lowes... I'll swing out there tomorrow and see if they can tell me if it comes with the head expander or not. It seems it would be the easiest option if it does. I'll also see how much material is on them that can be taken off... thanks again!!!
As for installation... from what I've gathered is it's pretty straight forward... pull the old Windows out, clean every thing, caulk on the stops, set the window and square it, and caulk every seam I see... sound abiut right?
73RR
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I have read through this thread and have not found where you tell us exactly the vintage of the structure, what type of window you have, or what type of wall construction. No photos?
Terminology does indeed vary across these fruited plains and with me on the West coast I often get confused by NE descriptions however, you do not indicate where you are located so perhaps others are also confused.
I have replaced multiple hundreds of windows but still not sure how to offer any suggestions as I really don't know what you have......
Terminology does indeed vary across these fruited plains and with me on the West coast I often get confused by NE descriptions however, you do not indicate where you are located so perhaps others are also confused.
I have replaced multiple hundreds of windows but still not sure how to offer any suggestions as I really don't know what you have......
Falcon67
Well-known member
Having helped with replacing the windows in our house, TCI has it. Measure the opening, order a window. Spend the $$$, otherwise you'll be screwing with fitment and seal. Not worth it on what amounts to a huge hole in the side of a house. If you want to save $, wait for HD to run one of their 15% all custom door and window sales.
I'm going to Lowe's in a bit to check on the pella window I posted.. they don't have that exact size, but they have others from that line there. If they have that expansion cap on the top I think I'll go that route. They're 27.5 wide and 36.5 tall, if I can get even close to 1/2" extra with that cap it should fit just fine. Thanks everyone!
ddawg16
Well-known member
Another vote for NOT buying a ready made off the shelf window....
And another vote for TCI's input.
I just replaced my kitchen window....
Of course, be being the typical GJ member.....well....I didn't take the easy route....
Took out the old 36x36 POS....opened things up a bit...ordered custom windows...Milgard...fiberglass on the outside (it means I can paint them), vinyl inside, low E, double paned, Argon filled. Side windows are casement so we can crank them open.
I'm in the process of making new cabinets. The granite will actually go into the bay window area.
And another vote for TCI's input.
I just replaced my kitchen window....
Of course, be being the typical GJ member.....well....I didn't take the easy route....
Took out the old 36x36 POS....opened things up a bit...ordered custom windows...Milgard...fiberglass on the outside (it means I can paint them), vinyl inside, low E, double paned, Argon filled. Side windows are casement so we can crank them open.
I'm in the process of making new cabinets. The granite will actually go into the bay window area.
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6768rogues
Banned
The title of the post says rough opening, so that is what I thought he was working with.
Firebrick43
Well-known member
Find a local glass dealer that sells okna or sunrise Windows. They custom make every window(no "stock" sizes) for about 2/3 the cost of stock andersons/pella/Marvin. They are better built as well.