Replacing outdoor faucet - ideas?

[mossyoakglock]

We have an outdoor faucet that runs into our garage. But, once it comes through the garage wall, it makes a quick 90* turn upward about 1.5" from the wall (pictures attached). I need roughly 13-13.5" to make it through the exterior wall and line up with the existing copper pipe.

Here is my thought and looking for some confirmation that this will work like I have it planned in my head.

Run sillcock through the wall and attache a 90* Sharkbite female-to-quick connect connector to the sillcock. Based on my measurements that should put me right around 13". Then a short piece of copper pipe, maybe 6", with two push-to-connect couplings to connect to the main line. They also have this which is basically the same thing.

I'd like to use the Sharkbite connectors since there isn't much room and I'm not great at soldering. Plus we've got an estimate and they want $250+ to install a new one.

 

[inphx]

Seems like you will be wrestling to drill new or remove and replace the copper through the wall. Why cant the exterior spigot be removed and the existing pipe made use of?

 

[Codyboy]

Are you changing the type of faucet? Wouldn't it just be like for like?

 

[welder4956]

Looks like there is plenty of room to solder those joints. Soldering is much easier than you think. Buy a handful of copper fittings, a couple feet of pipe and soldering supplies, then use them for practice a few times. Plenty of Youtube videos to show you how to fit, clean, flux and solder sound joints. Or you could just pay the $250 to have it done right so you don't have to worry about it leaking down the road.

 

[inphx]

Just guessing the outside spigot used a compression nut ring - we'll see when the op gets back.

 

[BillK]

How is the spigot attached outside ? I replace one of mine last year and it just unscrewed and I screwed the new one back on ?? Why in the world do you want to make it so complicated ?

 

[mikedodge]

Seems like you should be able to cut the pipe and pull it through the hole and get the new one in place. I'm far from an expert at plumbing but that's plenty of room to work and even a wall that won't easily catch on fire. Like welder4956 said watch some YouTube and do a bit of test work. Its pretty fun. Or pony up the $250 and never have to worry about it again.

 

[mossyoakglock]

I haven't removed anything so I'm not sure what type of connection it has or anything else. I was hoping to get all materials before I start the work so I don't have to leave the water off longer than necessary.

It's mounted to the brick with some concrete screws. Maybe I get lucky and I can find one similar and just unscrew and screw a new one on. I've tried to rebuild it but I can't find any o-rings, etc that will work and there is no telling how old the faucet is. We've been in the house for 10 years but the house was build in the early 90's.

Is there an issue with using the Sharkbite stuff?

 

[mossyoakglock]

Seems like you should be able to cut the pipe and pull it through the hole and get the new one in place. I'm far from an expert at plumbing but that's plenty of room to work and even a wall that won't easily catch on fire. Like welder4956 said watch some YouTube and do a bit of test work. Its pretty fun. Or pony up the $250 and never have to worry about it again.

This was my thought. Just cut the pipe, pull it through the wall from the outside and install the new one.

 

[mikedodge]

This was my thought. Just cut the pipe, pull it through the wall from the outside and install the new one.

I'm no expert plumber but from the little work I've ever done I'd think you'd want to to get the proper length pipe on the new faucet, get a new elbow and sleeve and replace that end to get it all ready that the last thing you're doing is soldering the faucet pipe into the elbow. Which should be pretty straight forward.

What's wrong with the faucet? Usually you can just replace the seal or the valve part and not the whole thing.

 

[mike93lx]

Is there an issue with using the Sharkbite stuff?

Lots of people are concerned with their long term durability. I've used them a few times with no issues, but as I've learned more, I likely won't again.

I don't like soldering either, but I do like copper piping, so I recently bought a propress (not suggesting it for you here).

I'd solder that up

 

[TurnipTruck]

Is the garage heated? What is your climate?
I would be tempted to screw or sweat the spigot into a tee as an inside drain if there is ever a chance of freezing.

 

[FrankLee]

I'm not great at soldering.

Well, if you plan to rip some of that out anyway, you really have nothing to lose if you try to sweat off the old bib.

You'd be better off sweating on a threaded copper adapter and getting a threaded bib. Next time it would be a piece of cake.

I changed all my outside bibs to standard ball valves with a hose adapter.

 

[finn]

The most difficult part of soldering copper for me is to keep from catching the building on fire.

Since you have a fireproof concrete block wall, that concern isn’t even there.

Give soldering a shot. Don’t try to salvage old fittings, and use plenty of flux.

Use a damp rag to clean up the excess solder while everything is still hot and you’ll have a nice looking joint.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I was hoping to get all materials before I start the work so I don't have to leave the water off longer than necessary.

It's impossible to do any home plumbing job with only one trip to the store for supplies.

 

[Gozo]

If you’re in an area with freezing temps, consider a freeze proof sillcock. They’re generally long enough so you don’t have to worry about any hidden connections within the block. For me, I’d avoid Skarkbite connectors and use either compression fittings or ideally soldered.
Practice on some spare bits of copper pipe; once you get the hang of it, it’s satisfying and kind of fun.

 

[PCustoms]

Location?

Pics of the outside?

 

[mossyoakglock]

I decided to rip out the caulking on the garage side of the block wall and the following picture is what I saw. It looks like the sillcock is threaded onto the pipe. It looks like it's a probably around 8".

So, with that I should, in theory, be able to unscrew it and screw a new one back on?

The issue is that it's leaking. Not a spray but just a drip but when it freezes here, the entire wall is a block of ice.

I'm in Middle TN so while we don't have really cold winters, we do get below freezing pretty regularly at night and we can have week or two stretches were it doesn't get above freezing and could be sub-20's.

If anybody knows what type is and knows what valve/seal/o-rings I need, I'm all for just repairing it. It has ABP stamped on the other side.

 

[FrankLee]

There are lots of other videos. This was the first that popped up.

 

[FrankLee]

ABP is ARROWHEAD BRASS & PLUMBING

Parts are readily available

 

[BurtEggley]

I am puzzled why such a quandary over this. If the bib is leaking then replace the washer. If it is leaking around the stem, tighten the cap and/or replace the bonnet seal. As for unscrewing it, it may come off or break the copper pipe. I would turn the water off, open the faucet all the way, remove the stem and inspect the washer. If it is old and bad, likely, take the stem to the hardware store and ask for help figuring out which washer size to buy, maybe replace the screw too if it is corroded. Or go to Yelp, look at plumber ratings nearby and find someone who has a lot of high ratings. Just let them do it for you. I do outstanding plumbing work including sweating copper, but my plumber does even better so a lot of times it is just easier to pay him to handle things for me. He is not a rich person and has a family to feed too. Somehow my computer network clients always seem to find work for me about the same time which more than offsets what I pay others.

 

[cgrutt]

Leak can probably be easily repaired but assuming garage is not heated I'd probably shut supply off and try to drain any water out of pipe to avoid having pipe freeze and break. If garage is heated or stays consistently above freezing is there a valve inside garage perhaps on the vertical section above faucet? May want to add a valve if there isn't one there already and/or replace faucet with a frost free type that will at least keep water inside garage. They are available in various sizes and Believe 14" is fairly common and should work assuming your measurements are good. Personally I'd solder but sharkbites style will also work.

ETA if its been leaking for a while that could be whats preventing pipes from freezing.

 

[mossyoakglock]

ABP is ARROWHEAD BRASS & PLUMBING

Parts are readily available

I'll have to likely handle this on Monday. Our local Ace typically has the oddball stuff like this that our big-box places don't but they are closed on Sundays.

 

[mossyoakglock]

Leak can probably be easily repaired but assuming garage is not heated I'd probably shut supply off and try to drain any water out of pipe to avoid having pipe freeze and break. If garage is heated or stays consistently above freezing is there a valve inside garage perhaps on the vertical section above faucet? May want to add a valve if there isn't one there already and/or replace faucet with a frost free type that will at least keep water inside garage. They are available in various sizes and Believe 14" is fairly common and should work assuming your measurements are good. Personally I'd solder but sharkbites style will also work.

The garage stays above freezing even when we had sub-teens for two weeks last year.

There is no valve on that vertical section and the current one is not frost-free either which is partly why I wanted to replace it as well.

 

[cgrutt]

The garage stays above freezing even when we had sub-teens for two weeks last year.

There is no valve on that vertical section and the current one is not frost-free either which is partly why I wanted to replace it as well.

Thats why I was saying to add a valve so you can shut faucet off and drain water exposed to freezing temps (near faucet within wall etc) or replace faucet with frost free style.

BTW guessing big box store (HD or Lowes) will have a washer for that faucet usually standard size 3/8 or 1/2 but you need right style (flat or beveled). The leaking can actually help keep it from freezing (keeping it flowing) but won't help if temp drops down really low. Best to drain pipe where its exposed.

 

[T444e]

The garage stays above freezing even when we had sub-teens for two weeks last year.

There is no valve on that vertical section and the current one is not frost-free either which is partly why I wanted to replace it as well.

In that case, I'd get the appropriate length frost proof hose bibb, cut the copper line above the Coupling and repipe as required with an isolation valve in the drop. All sweat copper if it was me.

I've installed a few hose bibbs in copper systems and I just cut back to a convenient location and pipe the new one from there.

 

[mike93lx]

If you do a frost free, make sure it's pitched down slightly as it exits the building so it drains properly. And disconnect the hose when it's freezing out

 

[OccupantRJ]

You may not be aware of this but there are faucet washer assortments sold at hardware and big box stores for a few dollars so you can bring it home and likely have a washer seal that will work. I used one recently on my shop sink from a kit I have had around for years. You could always do that and not have to deal with the piping in cold weather. I have two standard sillcocks and use these insulators in the pic below in the winter in NC to prevent freezing. Our winter weather is very similar to yours.

Damndest thing I have seen is a house nearby with a faucet on 1/2” copper pipe that protrudes from the brick foundation, turns 90 degrees and runs horizontal about 15” to a faucet suspended in mid air. The guy never wraps it, it has gotten down to 9 degrees here one year, sometimes gets in the mid teens, and it has never burst or leaked in the last 20 years I have known of it. Copper patina remains the same as I first saw it. It is on the front of the house and can be readily seen when driving by. I have talked to the guy several times over the years and he seems to take it as a source of pride.

 

[MFortie]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...n-Frost-Free-Sillcock-Valve-24636LF/301969182

 

[PCustoms]

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBi...n-Frost-Free-Sillcock-Valve-24636LF/301969182

Probably better if he buys a straight sillcock with threads and adds this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-Max-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-FIP-Brass-90-Degree-Elbow-Fitting-UR308A/326882516

Probably needs a second straight fitting and a short section of pipe to connect the vertical.

Excellent place to learn soldering if It has a torch, those sharkbites add up $$ and I'm not personally sold on their longevity

 

[Codyboy]

Is it leaking inside the wall where it threads onto the pipe? Looks corroded but pics ain't great.

If so then you'd have to try to unscrew it and replace or reseal those threads with tape and dope.
If just the valve itself , like others have said rip out the guts and replace washers and seat.
It's been a while but the nut on the outside is a packing nut. Get the packing kit to replace the packing too.
Can someone verify that for me?
Like I said its been 40 years since doing one. I remember waxed rope or string thats just jammed in there?

 

[Fav Onefour]

Replace with frost free anti siphon. That will also help you by getting rid of that problematic add on anti siphon. (I hate those things.)

It is surprising there is that much room around the pipe connection inside the wall. Replacement shouldn't be too hard. If the current fitting is corroded so bad that it twists the copper, just cut and replace a section of the copper inside the garage.

@cgrutt , has a good suggestion about adding a shutoff to that section. I wonder if there is already one inside the home?
Up here that is standard practice, but we plan for freezing.

 

[finn]

The big box stores have the little kits that contain a half dozen assorted gaskets and seals that will fix your faucet. They also have a little blister pack of waxed string to replace the stem packing.

that said, they will have frost proof faucets with a threaded end and an extended stem. They used to run about $15, but are probably double that now. If it’s been leaking a long time, replace the whole thing. Typically if a faucet has been leaking, the natural tendency is to ream down, and the brass stem gets compromised and eventually snaps.

Use teflon tape, or, better yet, plenty of pipe dope on the threads.

If you snap the copper female fitting, don’t fret. Just cut the pile above the elbow, solder in a coupling, short piece of pipe, elbow, and new female fitting. All simple, basic homeowner repairs.
you get a new propane torch, solder, a Tin of flux, and a piece of sandpaper or a pipe cleaning brush out of the deal and a pipe cutter to boot.

All in, you’re out $75, including the valve.

 

[mikedodge]

With the building not heated how cold does it get in there? In mine where the outside tap is isn't insulated, when it's cold enough for the water to freeze outside its also cold enough inside so one of those frost proof faucets is pointless. The water gets shut off at the nearest point it doesn't have a chance of freezing and the tap is left open.

 

[FrankLee]

It looks like your bib is the ABP 480 series.

Arrowhead Brass Faucet Guide

The Arrowhead Brass Faucet Guide shows all of the faucets with available parts. We only offer genuine Arrowhead brass parts

griggindustries.com

LOts of ABP info there.

 

[cgrutt]

Off topic but related, you may also want to consider adding heat tape and insulation to the pipe inside garage. Wouldn't need it often but good insurance when you get those occasional cold snaps.

I recently added (replaced actually) to a portion of my friend's Lodge that is exposed in a crawl space he keeps it running all winter in upstate NY and it does help prevent frozen pipes, even on drains and traps.

 

[flat350]

Don't bet on it being a threaded connection in the wall, can't see on the pics real well but it looks like a swt. joint. Lots of hose bibbs/sillcocks are copper swt. and I.P all in one.

 

[mossyoakglock]

Probably better if he buys a straight sillcock with threads and adds this:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/SharkBite-Max-1-2-in-Push-to-Connect-x-FIP-Brass-90-Degree-Elbow-Fitting-UR308A/326882516

Probably needs a second straight fitting and a short section of pipe to connect the vertical.

Excellent place to learn soldering if It has a torch, those sharkbites add up $$ and I'm not personally sold on their longevity

This was my initial plan. Buy a straight sillcock and add the 90 degree sharkbite elbow and the whatever fittings I need to connect it to the main line. There is no shutoff to that line, only the main line under the house.

Is it leaking inside the wall where it threads onto the pipe? Looks corroded but pics ain't great.

If so then you'd have to try to unscrew it and replace or reseal those threads with tape and dope.
If just the valve itself , like others have said rip out the guts and replace washers and seat.
It's been a while but the nut on the outside is a packing nut. Get the packing kit to replace the packing too.
Can someone verify that for me?
Like I said its been 40 years since doing one. I remember waxed rope or string thats just jammed in there?

I couldn't get a good picture and get the camera to focus. No, it's leaking at the faucet.

Replace with frost free anti siphon. That will also help you by getting rid of that problematic add on anti siphon. (I hate those things.)

It is surprising there is that much room around the pipe connection inside the wall. Replacement shouldn't be too hard. If the current fitting is corroded so bad that it twists the copper, just cut and replace a section of the copper inside the garage.

@cgrutt , has a good suggestion about adding a shutoff to that section. I wonder if there is already one inside the home?
Up here that is standard practice, but we plan for freezing.

Based on what I can find, it appears to be a 480 series which says it's a frost-free and self-draining according to their literature.

Arrowhead 480 Series

With the building not heated how cold does it get in there? In mine where the outside tap is isn't insulated, when it's cold enough for the water to freeze outside its also cold enough inside so one of those frost proof faucets is pointless. The water gets shut off at the nearest point it doesn't have a chance of freezing and the tap is left open.

It stays above freezing. Even when we had the sub-teens for a week and a half last year, the garage stayed around the 40's. The garage is under the house sort of like a basement.

It looks like your bib is the ABP 480 series.

Arrowhead Brass Faucet Guide

The Arrowhead Brass Faucet Guide shows all of the faucets with available parts. We only offer genuine Arrowhead brass parts

griggindustries.com

LOts of ABP info there.

This is my thought as well based on the information I could find on their website.

Arrowhead 480 Series

Don't bet on it being a threaded connection in the wall, can't see on the pics real well but it looks like a swt. joint. Lots of hose bibbs/sillcocks are copper swt. and I.P all in one.

Based on the information that I could find on Arrowhead's website and what FrankLee said, it looks like a 480 series which has a male threaded connection.



If I can find the replacement locally, I might try replacing the guts first. If that doesn't work, I'll replace the whole thing.

 

[mossyoakglock]

Just an update....

I was able to get a replacement stem from my local Ace and swapped it out no problem. I could have gotten the stem repair kit but I figured if I have it out I might as well replace the entire thing.

I'm just waiting on a new vacuum breaker since the 480 Series requires it. The threads coming off the spout are fine-thread so the breaker works as an adapter of sorts as well.

 

[captain14]

Are you going to save the old one and try to replace the guts at your leisure? Great learning experience and you’re not under pressure if it doesn’t work out the first time