Replacing outlets: which ones to buy?

[mad german]

I need to replace the outlets in the house. Several of them don't hold plugs that well. I'm sure they're all original to the house (built 1999). I went to Lowe's and was surprised at how many options there are. These are just indoor outlets and a few GFIs. They have some that are less than $0.50 (when bought in packs of 10) and some that are about $3.00/each. Does more money mean better quality on stuff like this? I've got a total of 53 regular outlets and 6 GFIs.

I had 3 Leviton outlets in my tool chest that I used today, but still have many more to buy. I noticed that the ones I used had the option of either hooking the wire around the screw, sticking it in a hole in the back; both of which required the screw to be tightened. But they also had a "quick wire" hole which hold the wire in with a clamp of some sort; I didn't use this method. I back wired them and clamped them down.

I was leaning towards these:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Eaton-20-Amp-125-Volt-White-Indoor-Duplex-Wall-Outlet/1112215

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hubbell-X-...uplex-Wall-Tamper-Resistant-Outlet/1000275845

So...what do I choose? And why?

Thx guys!

 

[7echo]

I would not buy the cheapest one for sure. I am sure some of the regulars will be along to comment.
One thing to consider is if you need USB outlets on the receptacles, can be a very handy addition!

 

[matt_i]

I feel like the mid price, its probably around the $3. point you mentioned, is a better deal in the long run.

 

[mad german]

I like the USB idea. Thanks for that. Also, would I be better off buying at an electrical supply house or should I just go to Lowe’s/Home Depot? I’ve got a electrical supply house 10 minutes away, so all shops are close.

 

[The Cobbler]

I used all spec grade in my shop. if I was doing the house I would probably go with them on outlets that get used alot . ones that seldom get used probably cheaper would suffice . I would stay with name brands, middle of the road at minimum

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Dont buy the cheapies.

Go with the spec grade ones that have the backwire screw pressure plate terminal.

 

[JimRB]

I used Hubbel commercial grade in my house 20 years ago. None have failed. 20 amp because I used 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp breakers for all receptacles. Commercial grade light switches also. https://hdsupplysolutions.com/shop/tp/hubbell-white-commercial-grade-receptacle

 

[metlmunchr]

My house was built in the mid 70s. In the mid 90s I replaced all the outlets with spec grade outlets purchased at an electrical supply house where we had an account. About $2 then in quantity, same thing probably $3 today. Where the originals were all noticeably loose if in areas where they'd been used much, all the replacements are still tight as new after 20+ years. Time and money well spent.

 

[ScD]

I prefer the back wiring outlets using the screw-and-clamp system. This type is easy to use, and makes the best connection. They are more expensive but IMHO well worth the extra money.

Outlets with side wiring using the side terminal screws take more time to install as you have to shape a loop on each wire to go around every terminal.

Back wiring push-in type, sometimes referred to as “backstab” outlets should be avoided. These are the cheapest outlets and have the least secure connections.

 

[Bert_]

Forget the 20a recepts. unless you have stuff that actually has a 20a plug. The internals are the same, all 15a outlets are rated for 20a pass though.

I often use P&S CR15's, under $2 and a decent outlet. Other brands make similar grades.

Given that this is in your house the new outlets should be tamper resistant. But if it were my own house I would just install the non TR. I'm not a big fan of them, especially the residential grade ones, always having to wiggle the plug to insert and generally a pain is the @$$.

 

[sberry]

How is it that the cheap ones work for me but not for you?
I plug a vac in once in a while, can't even remember last time I actually used or moved really something in the house, stuff plugged in stays, some for years.
I use a few in the shop.
I used to think I was different the most people, needed better stuff than they did but I can't remember the last time I replaced a replacement.outlet. The style may be diffetent, I think the internals are pretty much the same.
On the outside chance I would have to change one it wouldn't be the worst 5 minutes I ever spent.

 

[yost69]

I have built 4 houses in my life and every one of them have had the 10 packs from lowes installed in them. Have not had one issue thus far.

 

[James-W]

How is it that the cheap ones work for me but not for you?
I plug a vac in once in a while, can't even remember last time I actually used or moved really something in the house, stuff plugged in stays, some for years.

I agree with that totally. We bought the more expensive wall outlets, but I sometimes question if they are really needed. As you said, most stuff stays plugged in all the time. The vacuum gets plugged in from time to time, but we have hardwood floors so we normally just use a Swiffer on them. We have a portable telephone charger that we plug in when we need to and we have a small steamer for when the grandkids are here and they have colds and their heads are plugged up. Other than that, everything stays plugged in. I can't recall ever having to replace a receptacle except for one that got broken because one of the grandkids hit it with a kids baseball bat.

 

[JazzBlueRT]

I like the USB idea. Thanks for that. Also, would I be better off buying at an electrical supply house or should I just go to Lowe’s/Home Depot? I’ve got a electrical supply house 10 minutes away, so all shops are close.

I am a big fan of buying from local businesses if possible, even if the price is more.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

In my experience anyway most loose fitting outlets are caused by people yanking cords out of outlets sideways.
That being said,don't backstab outlets when you install them.

 

[AP514]

That being said,don't backstab outlets when you install them.

Backstab ? er what ?

 

[383 240z]

Backstabbing is when you skin the insulation and poke it in the hole on the back of the outlet and that is it. I don't like those as I cannot verify a good and solid connection. I much prefer the screw and clamp style. With those, you do not have to turn the little circle on the wire, you just skin the wire, slip it under the clamp and tighten the screw. Keith

 

[finn]

The contractor bag of inexpensive outlets work for me. The more expensive screw clamp outlets are easier to install if the wire is trimmed too short or in 12awg instead of 14awg.

Strategically placed usb outlets are a necessity, and buy some of the led outlet covers for hallways for nighttime convenience

 

[Norcal]

Lowes has Hubbell tamper resistant receptacles that I like, if not in a hurry shopping around will pay dividends in terms of a lower price. In residential replacements are required to be tamper resistant, and if the 2017 NEC has been adopted, so is AFCI "protection" when replacing receptacles.

I despise the low end residential tamper resistant receptacles they are not very "user friendly" the Hubbell receptacles mentioned in the previous paragraph are OK.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

The more expensive outlet are better quality- more substantial and side screw-clamps. The cheaper outlets will also work but feel lighter and a bit cheaper.

If I have that many to do I split the cost by installing the spec grade outlets in living rooms, kitchens, and high traffic areas. The cheap 10-pack outlets work for bedrooms, hallways, closets, etc.

The USB outlets are nice but be prepared to spend $20+ for each one. I've never really found a need for one with all the phone chargers we have already.

 

[Angelfire]

For outlets and switches, I went with mid priced Levitons and they've been pretty good. The outlets are TR and really, I haven't had but one or two times where I had to try to get the plug in more than once. As for USB recepts, I tried these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JHAFGLG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

A little over a year later and they seem to be working just fine. Bit cheaper than others.

Cheers

 

[AP514]

TY for informing me on Backstabbing....got to love this place and all the great knowledge

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Last month, I put 16 cheapie duplex receptacles in new outlet boxes on the 17' high ceiling in My shop. Being a typical load will be three 40 watt Led light assemblies which will seldom, if ever be unplugged, I went with the cheapies. Same for the door opener outlet that I wired at the same time. Except to maintain or repair, the opener will remain plugged in. Eight of these 16 outlets are reserved for future ceiling fans or lighting additions, thus have no present loads.

That is an exception to My normal rule to buy the Leviton Pro Duplex Receptacles with the push in and tighten feature.

People mention putting cheapie outlets in bedrooms.. I would rather spend the extra $3 per outlet;;; especially where that two motor vacuum cleaner, space heater, hair dryer, or portable air conditioner chance to be frequently plugged in.

Some years back, I bought enough Levitons to redo every room in the house, along with better light switches.. The number of cheapies that would not maintain a firm hold on a plug was disgusting, and the bend the plug prongs ceremony just didn't fly.

Money wasted???????????? I paid over $360 for My two motor vacuum cleaner over 18 years ago. I can plug it into any outlet in the house without worries about overheating the prongs on the plug; due to a crappy loose outlet connection.. There is a rumor that voltage drop is hard on appliances, and I am one who believes it. The money spent on My outlet upgrades was far less than the cost of a new vacuum.

 

[rburke65]

Spend the bucks on the better outlet . Even if ya do one or two a week.

 

[MikeF2316]

I have had outlets fail in the sense they get too loose to hold the plugs. Generally I buy the higher quality ones simply because the extra expense is so little. I make sure I use only the high quality ones in the shop - because I'm plugging and unplugging so much more out there.

 

[Jarnipman]

Screw terminals only is my suggestion with the wire looped in the correct direction or screw clamps. I have fixed hundreds or more receptacles that have come loose from the push in connections. They can short many years down the road and weird things like your wife saying the TV only works some of the time can start happening. They should be illegal, I have no idea why NEC allows the pushin, probably because vendors/builders lobbied for it because they are fast and efficient to install.

I also would go heavier duty than the cheopos because it is your house. There is nothing more frustrating than 5 years from now a receptacle cracking in two because the plastic resin degraded or a whimpy bite on the cord shorting.

Tamper resistant is required in most places. One point of contention, however, is inspections. Some areas consider changing a receptacle as major electrical work and they require an upgrade to the entire circuit, which can be an expensive disaster. I have been through this many times with inspectors

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Screw terminals only is my suggestion with the wire looped in the correct direction or screw clamps. I have fixed hundreds or more receptacles that have come loose from the push in connections. They can short many years down the road and weird things like your wife saying the TV only works some of the time can start happening. They should be illegal, I have no idea why NEC allows the pushin, probably because vendors/builders lobbied for it because they are fast and efficient to install.


I have a wife vs the outlet story to add. Back in 1976, our new house had been wired with back-stabbed outlets. The living room had no ceiling light, so the outlets were wired with the top half switched for lights, and the lower half always hot. I watched as She unplugged a table lamp from the upper half of an outlet, plugged it into the lower half, then plugged a vacuum cleaner into the upper half.. I questioned why She did that, and She replied that the lower half only works for a light.. Well, She was correct, and that table lamp was rather dim plugged into that lower half.. My voltmeter read 85 volts on the bottom half, and 125 on the top half..
All the back-stabbed connections were relocated to the screw terminals on every outlet in the house at that time. In later years, all those cheap outlets were replaced with the Leviton Pro outlets with the provision to push the wires in from the rear, and then secure by tightening the screw and clamp setup. It would be a shame if someone confused these quality outlets with the P.O.S. back-stabbed outlets on account of the words "push in" being misunderstood. I don't know if anyone has experienced problems with the Leviton Pro; but if they have, I would be interested to hear about it.

 

[coleman10]

Here's my take. Mind you, everyone's situation is different. In the last three houses I've owned, as I paint each room, I've replaced the receptacles. I found every house always had a mixture of backstabbed and screw post. The house we just purchased last year had the same, a mix of both, and all were original. Everything in this place was all original and the receptacles are 30 years old. Apart from being dingy, discolored, and sometimes dirty, they all worked fine. As I worked my way around the house (work, actually, we are still not done with renovations), I replace every receptacle, every switch. At first I was converting all the backstabbed connections to screw post, but time is precious, so for the most part, the connection type remained. All the old backstab springs were still super tight. If I start to notice something off with a receptacle in 20 or 30 years, I'll change the connection, but it isn't worth my time right now.

In all my homes, I used the Decora style. I don't like the look of the old style receptacles. In some areas, I used the ones with the LED lights on them. Very handy. You have more options with that style, such as USB ports as others have mentioned. I buy the 10-pack, tamper resistant ones at Home Depot. Never had an issue with them and seriously doubt I ever will.

 

[sberry]

I just did a service call with a failed stab. It was on an older mobile home, the bath outlet quit, some ahead of it too. It wouldn't been so bad if it would have been direct, it was actually a N but especially on the hots a long series of daisy chained stabs to get there, it and out of every switch or device, well over a dozen before it even got to the heaviest load.
It must have arcced 1000s of times, thermal stroked back and forth till it got a glaze over it.
I am going to see if I can find one but seems I have seen stabs for 20A, they may have been spec ordered for mobile/modulars? It's been a while so that's not gospel, going from memory.

 

[dscheidt]

\
I am going to see if I can find one but seems I have seen stabs for 20A, they may have been spec ordered for mobile/modulars? It's been a while so that's not gospel, going from memory.

Have not been allowed to use anything but 14 AWG wire in stabbed outlet since the 80s.

 

[mad german]

Wow! Thanks so much guys. Lots of very helpful information. I really appreciate it.