Replacing Rotors & Bleeding Brakes

[beetroot72]

I'm Replacing The Rotors and Pads on my Buddies 2003 350Z w/ brembos.
I have 2 questions?

What's the best way to remove and replace the Rotors. I separated the Caliper (Brembo calipers are 2 pieces with a bleeder on each 1/2) and replaced one Rotor last night but I am now having trouble bleeding the brakes good enough. I find it odd to have to open the hydraulic system to replace the rotors. I would have unbolted the calipers but they are "Hard Lined" and I not sure if just bending the line to remove the caliper was the right Idea.
In what sequence do I bleed the brembo calipers. There are 2 bleeders each caliper(outer& Inner), Is it necessary to pump and bleed each one, and which one do I do first? I know to do RR, LR, RF, LF but am not sure which of the two bleeders to start with.

 

[Magneto349]

Although this isnt a topic really for the board, go down to the parts store and buy a brake bleeder kit, it has a pump with it, makes bleeding them easy! Also make sure your master cylinder has oil in it, and keep refilling it as you bleed.

 

[beetroot72]

Although this isnt a topic really for the board, go down to the parts store and buy a brake bleeder kit, it has a pump with it, makes bleeding them easy! Also make sure your master cylinder has oil in it, and keep refilling it as you bleed.

Thanks but my question goes a little deeper than that.
I thought anything that goes on in the Garage is Fair Game...even beyond. There is even discussions on *********** an animal....Right Junk? lol

 

[Flintstone]

I ran into the same issue when changing the rotor on my fathers Z.

The hard lines can be bent without damage, and I would recommend doing it this way. Unless you can put a vacuum pump on that caliper, you're going to be pumping all day

Ted

 

[Smokey]

I use a Motive brand bleeder for the euro cars I work on. Pressurized tank and hose assembly that replaces the normal brake res cap. Pump it up (in my case max of 25 psi) open a bleeder and catch the old. I still like to use the old pump & hold method for final bleeding, but this works great for fluid replacements etc...

Don't know if they have one for the Z-cars or not but it would be worth the time spent searching. While I'm sure it can be done, be careful bending the hard lines.

Good luck

 

[beetroot72]

Thanks Guys...Any knowledge On which bleeder on the caliper to open first. There are 2 bleeders...one for the inner pistons and one for the outer pistons. Both bleeders are on top of the caliper.
Here is a stock pic from the web...

 

[67 455 Bird ragtop]

The usual rule of thumb is bleed the furthest bleeder valve from the master cylinder first and work your way in. Hope this helps a little.

Maybe this will help also ...

http://www.tawvehicle.com/brembo_tech_info.htm


Search engines are our friends

 

[Uncle Buck]

Although this isnt a topic really for the board, go down to the parts store and buy a brake bleeder kit, it has a pump with it, makes bleeding them easy! Also make sure your master cylinder has oil in it, and keep refilling it as you bleed.

It is a question related to mechanicin and spinnin wrenches isn't it? Yup very appropriate for this board!

 

[PAToyota]

Maybe the wrong forum, though.

Everything you ever wanted to know about outfitting, organizing, or building your garage!

Perhaps better to be in Free Parking? No biggie, though.

 

[JohnZ]

'65-'82 Corvettes are the same design as the Brembos - fixed 4-piston calipers with bleeders on both sides (in the rear). Get a Motive Products power bleeder (www.motiveproducts.com), and bleeding will be a piece of cake - otherwise you'll be pumping forever; with the power bleeder, even the infamously-stubborn-to-bleed Corvette brakes can be subdued in one trip around the car, and you don't have to watch the master cylinder. When bleeding a caliper with both inner and outer bleeders, do the one closest to the fluid entry fitting first (normally the inboard one).

 

[ryanawesome]

Usually you arent supposed to seperate the calipers in half. Big no-no. I'm a porsche tech and when brakes are done the hard line mounts are unbolted and the caliper removed from the wheel carrier and hung aside securely. Most of our brakes now are 1 piece monoblock but the older cars are 2 piece.

 

[Uncle Buck]

Maybe the wrong forum, though.

Everything you ever wanted to know about outfitting, organizing, or building your garage!

Perhaps better to be in Free Parking? No biggie, though.

I welcome the variety that mechanical problems and diagnosis issues bring to the discussion; in fact I look forward to them as opposed to the same old Craftsman vs. Snap-On discussions that seem to happen far too frequently. After all, cars are what most of us work on in our garages; I welcome the opportunities to perhaps give someone a hand figuring out a mechanical issue regardless where on the board someone asks the question. It seems to me that General Garage Discussion would be an appropriate place for a question like this. Of course that is just me.

 

[PAToyota]

Must just be that organizational freak thing in me! Everything in its place!