Replacing Scribe Bushing in Starrett 12-inch Square

[searman]

I've got my grandfather's Starrett 12-inch square from somewhere around the 1960s and I'm getting it cleaned up and in working order. A company called J.W. Donchin out of Chicago had the parts that I needed. They also do business as eBay user "discount_tool". Their customer support has been amazing! They got me the correct lock bolt and I believe I got the correct replacement scribe and scribe bushing.

However, it appears that part of the old bushing is stuck inside the hole. I have probed around with a couple of metal picks trying to get the old one out, but with no success. Is there a trick to this? Here are a few photos in case anyone has an idea of how to handle this. Thanks!

 

[PCustoms]

Looks like the whole bushing to me...

Why do you need to replace it?

 

[searman]

The scribe slides in and it's a close fit, but there's no friction to hold it in.

 

[PCustoms]

I wonder if a spiral extractor will spin it out

 

[rkevins]

left hand drill bit?

 

[PCustoms]

left hand drill bit?

Since it's not threaded, wouldn't a right hand have as much chance?

Whatever OP tries, I'd throw a soldering iron on it for a bit to break down any retaining compound or glue that might be on it

 

[RTM]

Some of the older ones did not have the same bushing mechanism from what I understood. Don't know when the change was, but one of mine there is no way the bushing would fit.

 

[d42jeep]

I would find a correct size tap and thread it into the bushing. Once it bottoms out just keep turning it and the bushing should come out. I used to use that method to remove pilot bushings in the back of crankshafts.
-Don

 

[PCustoms]

I would find a correct size tap and thread it into the bushing. Once it bottoms out just keep turning it and the bushing should come out. I used to use that method to remove pilot bushings in the back of crankshafts.
-Don

"Correct size tap"?

I think some of the scribes threaded in, others were friction fit. Or did you mean just use a tap to jack it out?

 

[d42jeep]

All of my scribes are friction fit. The tap method is to remove the bushing so a new one can be installed.
-Don

 

[PCustoms]

All of my scribes are friction fit. The tap method is to remove the bushing so a new one can be installed.
-Don

Funny, I think mine that are friction fit are missing. The screw in never fell out, so they are still there

 

[senlow]

Funny, I think mine that are friction fit are missing. The screw in never fell out, so they are still there

How can you tell if they are screw in?

 

[PCustoms]

How can you tell if they are screw in?

They have threads...



I was 3/5 having the scribe, the 2 missing were friction fit

 

[RTM]

was 3/5 having the scribe, the 2 missing were friction fit

Were any screws ins Starrett?

 

[PCustoms]

Were any screws ins Starrett?

I don't think so, but I took a quick look on my way out to the truck.

TBH I'm not even sure I own a Starrett.

 

[rust in the eye]

I would find a correct size tap and thread it into the bushing. Once it bottoms out just keep turning it and the bushing should come out. I used to use that method to remove pilot bushings in the back of crankshafts.
-Don

Brilliant! Thank you for that!
Sorry, no help here for the OP

 

[senlow]

They have threads...



I was 3/5 having the scribe, the 2 missing were friction fit

Thanks, PCustoms. I have never seen a screw in scribe on a combination square! I have Starrett, Stanley, Lufkin, and Brown & Sharpe. Those are all retained by friction.

 

[PCustoms]

Thanks, PCustoms. I have never seen a screw in scribe on a combination square! I have Starrett, Stanley, Lufkin, and Brown & Sharpe. Those are all retained by friction.

I believe the two that are missing scribes are an old craftsman and a Stanley.

I know there is a scribe kicking around the shop somewhere, but who knows where I put it last time I found it.

Does anyone actually use the included scribe?

 

[RTM]

Does anyone actually use the included scribe?

Lumber grade work only. I suppose if I was doing metal work with Dykem instead of Sharpie, I might be more inclined to use it.

 

[T444e]

I believe the two that are missing scribes are an old craftsman and a Stanley.

I know there is a scribe kicking around the shop somewhere, but who knows where I put it last time I found it.

Does anyone actually use the included scribe?

I used the scribe in my Starrett 12" combo square for layout this evening. The pencil style scribe I typically use was too big and I couldn't find my Starrett scribe. Attempting to layout on the 64ths scale, my eyes are not what they used to be.

 

[senlow]

I know there is a scribe kicking around the shop somewhere, but who knows where I put it last time I found it.

Does anyone actually use the included scribe?

I can usually find my scribe. I keep it in a block of wood that is drilled to hold some of my most used tools. The block hangs off the side of my toolbox that is next to my bench.

I seldom use the scribes that are on my squares. It's a pain to hold those tiny scribes. Plus, the included scribes are not carbide tipped.

 

[Modern Garage]

I just used the scribe from a combo square a day ago. Not as a scribe though. I sharpened it as a small screwdriver some time ago to fit in a close space. The knurled head make for a good grip for a screwdriver.
Joe

 

[Firebrick43]

My two vintage starrett squares are friction fit and still have good friction.

My 10 year old cheap beater Stanley I use for crappy work is a screw in.

 

[searman]

Thanks to everyone who offered suggestions. As Paul Harvey used to say, "And now, the rest of the story."

I found

and tried the "paperclip method" suggested. Neither a standard nor large gauge paperclip were strong enough to extract the bushing. Both clips bent and gave way without budging the bushing. I applied some Kroil penetrating lubricant and tried the paperclips again after a few days, but with the same results.

So, I reluctantly pulled out my drill and a 1/8" bit. I selected slow mode and put the drill in reverse. That let me explore the hole without being too aggressive. The 1/8 bit didn't really catch any metal, so I moved up to a 9/64" bit and that did catch. I flipped the drill into forward motion and EXTREMELY carefully caught the top of the bushing. After about 1 full turn, the bit had pulled it up enough for me to extract from the hole.

Here, the old bushing is the one on the bottom while the new one is at the top.

No matter how much I squeezed with my hands, I couldn't get the new bushing in the hole. I used my 8-ounce ball peen hammer to gently tap the new bushing as carefully into the hole as I could.

That let me insert the replacement Starrett scribe...

...all the way in for a very tight fit.

Earlier, I also had to replace the latch bolt with another from the same Starrett dealer. This is as much restorative work as I intend to do on my grandfather's combination square. I'll continue using it in the shop like this.

 

[leg17]

...all the way in for a very tight fit.

Earlier, I also had to replace the latch bolt with another from the same Starrett dealer. This is as much restorative work as I intend to do on my grandfather's combination square. I'll continue using it in the shop like this.

Nice save. This hardened version should give a lifetime of service in the shop. Old Pap would be pleased.