My experience in using linear LEDs vs. traditional T8 fluorescent bulbs gave me a few insights that may be helpful for you:
1. A typical decent new 2800-3000 lumen 32 watt T8 4' fluorescent on a ballast with an average 0.88 ballast factor in a fixture with a reflector will put about as much light down to the workplane as a linear LED with a little over 2000 lumens.
2. A typical decent new 2800-3000 lumen 32 watt T8 4' fluorescent on a ballast with an average 0.88 ballast factor in a fixture without a reflector (such as a strip light) will put about as much light down to the workplane as a linear LED with a little under 2000 lumens.
3. Note that the less expensive linear LED bulbs are generally 1500-1600 lumens and will be noticeably dimmer than a regular fluorescent bulb. The better ones with 2000-2200 lumens will be as bright as the original fluorescent in a typical reflectorized fixture and somewhat brighter in a strip fixture.
4. The brightness and also power draw of Type A ballast-required linear LEDs depends on the ballast factor, at least with GE's bulbs (the only manufacturer I could see that actually published this data.) With an average 0.88 ballast factor ballast, their "15 watt" Type A bulbs produce a little over 2000 lumens and this directly scales with ballast output (e.g. a 1.2 ballast factor ballast can drive these to 2600-2900 lm!) Direct wire Type B bulbs will give you about the output it says on the label.
5. The light distribution of a linear LED in a strip fixture is similar to that of a fluorescent fixture with a reflector, which is to say there isn't much uplight. This can be a pro or a con depending on what you are after.
6. Ballast bypass (type B) bulbs are considerably more expensive than "plug and play (type A) bulbs, typically about $7.50-10 per bulb vs. $4-6 if you buy from an established brand (GE, Sylvania, etc.) and buy locally.
7. For new projects, generally the least expensive option up front is to use regular fluorescents, as a ballast bypass fixture and Type B ballast bypass bulbs are more expensive than a regular fixture and regular bulbs. It is about a wash between going regular ballasted fixtures and Type A LEDs vs. ballast bypass fixtures and Type B LEDs but you will absolve yourself of ballast compatibility issues in going the latter route.
8. I have had to replace one of the 46 original T8 fluorescent bulbs in my shop in the last five years. The rest are still working well but are about 5-10% dimmer than a new one. I am using typical instant start ballasts in the fixtures that still run fluorescents.
1. A typical decent new 2800-3000 lumen 32 watt T8 4' fluorescent on a ballast with an average 0.88 ballast factor in a fixture with a reflector will put about as much light down to the workplane as a linear LED with a little over 2000 lumens.
2. A typical decent new 2800-3000 lumen 32 watt T8 4' fluorescent on a ballast with an average 0.88 ballast factor in a fixture without a reflector (such as a strip light) will put about as much light down to the workplane as a linear LED with a little under 2000 lumens.
3. Note that the less expensive linear LED bulbs are generally 1500-1600 lumens and will be noticeably dimmer than a regular fluorescent bulb. The better ones with 2000-2200 lumens will be as bright as the original fluorescent in a typical reflectorized fixture and somewhat brighter in a strip fixture.
4. The brightness and also power draw of Type A ballast-required linear LEDs depends on the ballast factor, at least with GE's bulbs (the only manufacturer I could see that actually published this data.) With an average 0.88 ballast factor ballast, their "15 watt" Type A bulbs produce a little over 2000 lumens and this directly scales with ballast output (e.g. a 1.2 ballast factor ballast can drive these to 2600-2900 lm!) Direct wire Type B bulbs will give you about the output it says on the label.
5. The light distribution of a linear LED in a strip fixture is similar to that of a fluorescent fixture with a reflector, which is to say there isn't much uplight. This can be a pro or a con depending on what you are after.
6. Ballast bypass (type B) bulbs are considerably more expensive than "plug and play (type A) bulbs, typically about $7.50-10 per bulb vs. $4-6 if you buy from an established brand (GE, Sylvania, etc.) and buy locally.
7. For new projects, generally the least expensive option up front is to use regular fluorescents, as a ballast bypass fixture and Type B ballast bypass bulbs are more expensive than a regular fixture and regular bulbs. It is about a wash between going regular ballasted fixtures and Type A LEDs vs. ballast bypass fixtures and Type B LEDs but you will absolve yourself of ballast compatibility issues in going the latter route.
8. I have had to replace one of the 46 original T8 fluorescent bulbs in my shop in the last five years. The rest are still working well but are about 5-10% dimmer than a new one. I am using typical instant start ballasts in the fixtures that still run fluorescents.
