Replicating Dimensions

[tejawxyz]

Hi Everyone,

New to the forum. I'm planning on building a detached 2 car garage in my back yard. It is important to me that the garage is aesthetically pleasing (to fit in the neighborhood/house etc...). I found a garage online that I would like to base my garage off but I have a few questions regarding what dimensions these may be.

The garage in the picture is 2 car Saltbox garage with an entry door in the front. Here are my questions.

1. What is the roof pitch shown in the front? 8x12? 10x12? Any advantage in keeping it a saltbox style?
2. What are the dimensions of the garage door?
3. What are the measurements of the wall in between the garage doors?
4. What is the overall height of the wall? Im guessing that it is a 10" header above the garage doors? The walls look 9' tall overall but I'm not sure.
5. The overall dims look like a 24' x 30' but can anyone chime in on that?
6. If I do scissor trusses, a shed style dormer on one side of the garage, and a roof pitch lift on the garage doors, would a 2 post lift be even feasible or am I asking for too much? I'm not planning on having large trucks/SUVs on the lift.









Picture Credit Pinneo Constructions -
http://www.pinneoconstruction.com/assets/olden-lane-garage/olden-lane-garage-1.jpg

 

[The Cobbler]

my guess is 8' stud walls , 8'x8 doors, 4/12 roof, 23' wide

 

[ard]

Looking at the human door, it is 6'8"...so walls look 8ft tall

Garage doors look 8x9..which put it at 27 ft wide

Id say 6/12 pitch on the roof

EDIT: Measuring the doors on the image, looks like they are square- 8x8.

Overall width is prolly 24-24ft

 

[PugetDude]

3' mandoor, 8' studwalls, 8' wide garage doors- 24' wide, 6/12 pitch roof.
WAG on depth is 24'...hard to scale due to the perspective.

 

[firebirdparts]

To your lift question, there is only one way to figure that out, and that's on paper.

A shed dormer has to be supported by something, so that does not really address the need for space in typical home framing where you're spacing rafters out on 16 inch or 24 inch centers. If it's supported by the trusses, then that is what your car will hit on the lift, not the dormer. If it's post construction with the trusses 10 feet apart, then of course that'll work without the dormer. I hope that makes sense.

So really, it depends on construction style. If you want to know whether scissor trusses will miss your car on a lift with 9 foot walls, you will need to ask a truss company to design them for you. Then you'll have to sketch it out on a sheet of graph paper. The building is pretty small, and low, so trusses might not really work.

 

[Dirtydan69]

You could always stick frame the roof.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Looking at the human door, it is 6'8"...so walls look 8ft tall

Garage doors look 8x9..which put it at 27 ft wide

Id say 6/12 pitch on the roof

3' mandoor, 8' studwalls, 8' wide garage doors- 24' wide, 6/12 pitch roof.
WAG on depth is 24'...hard to scale due to the perspective.

Y'all are good. Let me add "too short". I think it would look better as a three car with12 ft walls . 10 ft if neighbors and zoning *****.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

3' mandoor, 8' studwalls, 8' wide garage doors- 24' wide, 6/12 pitch roof.
WAG on depth is 24'...hard to scale due to the perspective.

This is about right.

My advice is keep the style. Overall building should be wider, taller and longer. I'd also increase the width and height of the garage doors. I also would consider a different style of door (unless those just look like swing outs).

 

[old__man]

Hi Everyone,


6. If I do scissor trusses, a shed style dormer on one side of the garage, and a roof pitch lift on the garage doors, would a 2 post lift be even feasible or am I asking for too much? I'm not planning on having large trucks/SUVs on the lift.

Something like a maxjax would fit in an 8' wall garage with a normal flat roof. No dormers. It's not a full height lift though.

 

[yeldogt]

A traditional "salt" has an asymmetrical roof -- depending on the depth you have or are allowed a salt can get you the height in the front for a lift w/o getting into the height problems in some areas because it's low in the back.

If in a cold climate. You must get the front correct so the water and snow are not a problem at the doors -- strong 6" 1/2 round is what I did. In colonial times -- they did not have them on a salt. Another point --- make sure you have enough room at the door if you want to use the space for anything. The garage pictured will have very little space when two cars are parked -- just enough .. and you will not have any usable space in the "alley" in front of the door inside.

Personally -- with garage doors openers -- I prefer that size garage w/o the door in the front so you use the area for a bench or storage ... even if you make the rear large enough for another bench. That size garage is for parking cars to get them out of the weather -- Even so it needs to be a couple feet wider.

 

[matt_i]

Closest shop is a 6:12 pitch. Far shop is a 10:12 pitch.

 

[lakeroadster]

Make a simple drawing using grid paper... then compare it to the sketch.

Same thing for a 2 post lift feasibility study. The depth of the garage, and the size vehicle you want to lift, will be the deciding factors.

 

[jetnow1]

Front wall has 8 foot stud walls, saltbox style means the back is even shorter. Pretty useless design for a working garage IMHO. Any builder could built it higher all around
to make it more usable, or design a garage with similar looks but able to fit the needs
you specify, ie lift, interior spacing etc. Remember that wall take up space, minimum allow
5 inch thickness per wall so a 24 foot wide garage is barely over 23 inside.

 

[yeldogt]

Front wall has 8 foot stud walls, saltbox style means the back is even shorter. Pretty useless design for a working garage IMHO. Any builder could built it higher all around
to make it more usable, or design a garage with similar looks but able to fit the needs
you specify, ie lift, interior spacing etc. Remember that wall take up space, minimum allow
5 inch thickness per wall so a 24 foot wide garage is barely over 23 inside.

Saltbox is LONGER in the back ... its not as high but still a full height ceiling when it hit a typical wall at the facia.

In many areas the overall height requirements make a full two sorry outbuilding difficult

 

[tejawxyz]

Thanks for the input. I've mocked it up based on some of the dimensions you guys mentioned (see attached image). Based on what I've read, saltbox is fairly useless here. Instead of a dormer for the lift, I've changed it to a dual pitch.

1. 24' wide x 24' deep
2. 30" wide man door
3. 8' wide garage doors
4. Overall front wall height of 106" including the header etc...
5. 4x12 front roof pitch, 2x12 roof pitch in the back (dual pitch roof)
6. Lift wise, I need to do a little better modeling with a real car. The garage door seems to be the thing that I need to find an alternative for, maybe a bifold door? Anyone have any experience with that?

 

[astroracer]

Look into attic or loft trusses. With a 6:12 If you go with a Gambrel roof you will have plenty of head room up there, it is well worth looking into.

24' wide will get pretty tight with a full size car pulled into the shop. You may want to consider 26' or 28' wide to make working in there easier.
Consider this as you are designing your building.
Finished inside dimensions will be roughly 1' less then the quoted size for 2 x 4 walls, 2 x 6 walls will lose another 1/2 foot.
Some things I always recommend to new garage builders.
* If you think there will be a hoist in your future go 12' on the side walls.
* Look into attic or loft trusses for "almost" free storage space up top.
* Keep your overhead doors at least 4' off the interior walls (6' is better) for more storage and working space alongside the cars.
Looking at your rendering above your OH doors are so close to each other and the side wall there is going to be no room for anything alongside a vehicle. It will be cramped trying to open the car door without hitting the wall.
Mark

 

[sberry]

Lets put the doors in the side so all the weather runs off in front of them and they need additional headers to support trusses instead of putting them in an end wall.

 

[Lelandwelds]

A traditional "salt" has an asymmetrical roof -- depending on the depth you have or are allowed a salt can get you the height in the front for a lift w/o getting into the height problems in some areas because it's low in the back.

If in a cold climate. You must get the front correct so the water and snow are not a problem at the doors -- strong 6" 1/2 round is what I did. In colonial times -- they did not have them on a salt. Another point --- make sure you have enough room at the door if you want to use the space for anything. The garage pictured will have very little space when two cars are parked -- just enough .. and you will not have any usable space in the "alley" in front of the door inside.

Personally -- with garage doors openers -- I prefer that size garage w/o the door in the front so you use the area for a bench or storage ... even if you make the rear large enough for another bench. That size garage is for parking cars to get them out of the weather -- Even so it needs to be a couple feet wider.

Yea, what he said.

Front wall has 8 foot stud walls, saltbox style means the back is even shorter. Pretty useless design for a working garage IMHO. Any builder could built it higher all around
to make it more usable, or design a garage with similar looks but able to fit the needs
you specify, ie lift, interior spacing etc. Remember that wall take up space, minimum allow
5 inch thickness per wall so a 24 foot wide garage is barely over 23 inside.

I agree. Not ideal but usable if you are ruthless on clutter, put everything on wheels or wall mount, and move all vehicles outside when working.

The pre and post work kills the pop-in-the-garage-for-45-minutes-to-unwind-after-work plan that so many people have. This plan is the "car closet" with "storage shelf over car hood" model.

Thanks for the input. I've mocked it up based on some of the dimensions you guys mentioned (see attached image). Based on what I've read, saltbox is fairly useless here. Instead of a dormer for the lift, I've changed it to a dual pitch.

1. 24' wide x 24' deep
2. 30" wide man door
3. 8' wide garage doors
4. Overall front wall height of 106" including the header etc...
5. 4x12 front roof pitch, 2x12 roof pitch in the back (dual pitch roof)
6. Lift wise, I need to do a little better modeling with a real car. The garage door seems to be the thing that I need to find an alternative for, maybe a bifold door? Anyone have any experience with that?

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151197

Almost every version of a two car garage is displayed here. A single vertical rising bifold would be used on aircraft hangers . Roll up doors or roof hugger tracks are possible. Can you stick the man door around the corner?

A 20 x 30 is better for some uses. Similar SF, slight cost increase. Less car moving. Better woodworking space.

Have you considered 14ft tall side walls 2/12 pitch with fake roof overhangs? Something built with bar joists like a strip mall or a gas station canopy? Very practical work environment with low visual impact.

Depending. Depending. Depending. Most people have some constraint they must work around. Are you really early in the design process? This is good mental excercise but you might want to find the PITA which will mess with your plan.

 

[ard]

I would NOT be stuck with the dimensions of THAT building and then struggle to shoehorn in a lift!!!

Why are you doing that??

It is super, super easy to build a structure that has the exact same style and proportions as that one, but lets you put a lift in far easier.

So...take that building and increase every dimension by ~20%:

8ft >>10ft walls
8x8 garage door >>>10x10 garage door
70x30 man door >>> 96x36 man door

on and on

end result will be a building that has the same proportions, just bigger.

My 2 cents.

 

[Lelandwelds]

Lets put the doors in the side so all the weather runs off in front of them and they need additional headers to support trusses instead of putting them in an end wall.

Ooh, sarcasm! It sounds like he lives in one of "those" neighborhoods and has to be extra careful with cosmetics. ( Or, his wife is like mine and " it's ugly" is more important than "will the lift clear?".)

 

[Lelandwelds]

I would NOT be stuck with the dimensions of THAT building and then struggle to shoehorn in a lift!!!!!!!!!

Why are you doing that??

It is super, super easy to build a strucutre that has the exact same style and proportions as that one, but lets you put a lift in far easier.

Take that building and increase every dimension by 20%

8ft >>10ft walls
8x8 garage door >>>10x10 garage door
70x30 man door >>> 96x36 man door

on and on

end result will be a building that has the same proportions, just bigger.

My 2 cents.

I agree. Except, the taller man door is double the cost. Put in a normal 3'0" door around the corner. If you build from wood, you need 4 ft or better walls on the corners for shear walls. If from steel, well, if you can draw it you can build it.

 

[wawaw]

Turn the building 90 degrees & put the doors in the gable end. You really need 25 feet in length if you want to put in a lift & also at least 9 or ten foot walls are better. one large garage roll up door so you can more easily install door opener with the lift offset. Also if you stick build the roof from scratch you can frame a opening in the joists to lift the vehicle up thru.

 

[Radix2]

OP - before the conversations get lost in the weeds - how about atating what your limitations are ? max height, footprint, budget, etc.

As Ard said, you can make something that looks like that but better suited to your uses if it is possible to go bigger - but can you?

For anything other than parking, that is a one bay project garage. Most neighborhoods can support a bigger size if allowed (without getting pole barn crazy).

also put your location in your profile so we know where you are - climate, etc.

 

[Lelandwelds]

OP - before the conversations get lost in the weeds - how about atating what your limitations are ? max height, footprint, budget, etc.

As Ard said, you can make something that looks like that but better suited to your uses if it is possible to go bigger - but can you?

For anything other than parking, that is a one bay project garage. Most neighborhoods can support a bigger size if allowed (without getting pole barn crazy).

also put your location in your profile so we know where you are - climate, etc.

Turn the building 90 degrees & put the doors in the gable end. You really need 25 feet in length if you want to put in a lift & also at least 9 or ten foot walls are better. one large garage roll up door so you can more easily install door opener with the lift offset. Also if you stick build the roof from scratch you can frame a opening in the joists to lift the vehicle up thru.

Lets put the doors in the side so all the weather runs off in front of them and they need additional headers to support trusses instead of putting them in an end wall.

Yea, what he said.



I agree. Not ideal but usable if you are ruthless on clutter, put everything on wheels or wall mount, and move all vehicles outside when working.

The pre and post work kills the pop-in-the-garage-for-45-minutes-to-unwind-after-work plan that so many people have. This plan is the "car closet" with "storage shelf over car hood" model.



https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=151197

Almost every version of a two car garage is displayed here. A single vertical rising bifold would be used on aircraft hangers . Roll up doors or roof hugger tracks are possible. Can you stick the man door around the corner?

A 20 x 30 is better for some uses. Similar SF, slight cost increase. Less car moving. Better woodworking space.

Have you considered 14ft tall side walls 2/12 pitch with fake roof overhangs? Something built with bar joists like a strip mall or a gas station canopy? Very practical work environment with low visual impact.

Depending. Depending. Depending. Most people have some constraint they must work around. Are you really early in the design process? This is good mental excercise but you might want to find the PITA which will mess with your plan.

I would NOT be stuck with the dimensions of THAT building and then struggle to shoehorn in a lift!!!!!!!!!

Why are you doing that??

It is super, super easy to build a strucutre that has the exact same style and proportions as that one, but lets you put a lift in far easier.

Take that building and increase every dimension by 20%

8ft >>10ft walls
8x8 garage door >>>10x10 garage door
70x30 man door >>> 96x36 man door

on and on

end result will be a building that has the same proportions, just bigger.

My 2 cents.

I notice a consensus here. How about somebody start promoting rigid PVC airlines or something? Fan some flames!!

 

[yeldogt]

Thanks for the input. I've mocked it up based on some of the dimensions you guys mentioned (see attached image). Based on what I've read, saltbox is fairly useless here. Instead of a dormer for the lift, I've changed it to a dual pitch.

1. 24' wide x 24' deep
2. 30" wide man door
3. 8' wide garage doors
4. Overall front wall height of 106" including the header etc...
5. 4x12 front roof pitch, 2x12 roof pitch in the back (dual pitch roof)
6. Lift wise, I need to do a little better modeling with a real car. The garage door seems to be the thing that I need to find an alternative for, maybe a bifold door? Anyone have any experience with that?

A salt box would work .. it was devised to get a second floor on the cheap. It's a question of what you are able to build. Gambrel never pass muster around me -- always shot down ... they are ugly.

 

[tejawxyz]

Thanks everyone for the input, after long consideration, I think I'll skip on the lift. Either way, I'll try to do a stick frame for the roof for max ceiling height inside (if I'm allowed by code enforcement) and stick to the dimensions discussed. I'll keep this thread open and post my build as it takes shape.

 

[ard]

I think I'll skip on the lift..

Blasphemy!

 

[Lelandwelds]

Thanks everyone for the input, after long consideration, I think I'll skip on the lift. Either way, I'll try to do a stick frame for the roof for max ceiling height inside (if I'm allowed by code enforcement) and stick to the dimensions discussed. I'll keep this thread open and post my build as it takes shape.

Dont be rash. Lots of options are available.

 

[nut_buster2017]

1. 7/12 pitch

2. 8 x 8

3. 16" to 24"

4. 8' to bottom of white trim

5. 25' or 26' wide by maybe 23' deep

B interesting experiment to know how all these estimates compare to the real thing.

 

[astroracer]

Go with one 16 x 8 door. That will give you 3' on either side of the door on the inside of the building.
Mark

 

[yeldogt]

Thanks everyone for the input, after long consideration, I think I'll skip on the lift. Either way, I'll try to do a stick frame for the roof for max ceiling height inside (if I'm allowed by code enforcement) and stick to the dimensions discussed. I'll keep this thread open and post my build as it takes shape.

There are areas where codes apply -- most of the country. It's the degree of zoning you encounter that starts to affect a project. Moving up the scale -- it's HOA and historic districts.

It sounds like you have some local ordinances to worry about ... the best advise I can give is ask the local code official if any retired architects are working in the area. Most areas are going to want some type of drawing -- why not get someone involved that can cut through all the unknown and give you some ideas and the drawing. Most will meet and go overt the project for free. Even if you pay them for a few hours of time and don't like them -- trust me they will say something that will help you down the road. Hire a second one. Architects really do add value to a project -- simple things make a difference .. they can tell you the what and how.

 

[johnnyradiant]

If you want to do the proportional upsize and keep the man door up front and want the cost of a standard height door frame in a transom window above the door to get you a cut out in your wall the ' 96" ', and you get a little more natural light.

 

[Homerr]

The shingle courses look to be about 7.25" tall comparing to an 80" tall man-door.

 

[kbs2244]

All your questions will be answered in the plans kit.

On the roof question, I would think about a ridge beam (not ridge board) type construction.
(Do a search, I have recommended it many times.)
You will need a post centered in each end wall, but it will give you a inside vault peak all the way to the ridge..
Your lift clearance concerns should go away if you have the door tracks follow the roof pitch.

 

[nut_buster2017]

There are areas where codes apply -- most of the country. It's the degree of zoning you encounter that starts to affect a project. Moving up the scale -- it's HOA and historic districts.

It sounds like you have some local ordinances to worry about ... the best advise I can give is ask the local code official if any retired architects are working in the area. Most areas are going to want some type of drawing -- why not get someone involved that can cut through all the unknown and give you some ideas and the drawing. Most will meet and go overt the project for free. Even if you pay them for a few hours of time and don't like them -- trust me they will say something that will help you down the road. Hire a second one. Architects really do add value to a project -- simple things make a difference .. they can tell you the what and how.

There is a lot of validity to this post.
I have a fairly simple hatch install to be completed at work on a building exterior.
As soon as we go outside, we are on city property and wouldn't think of proceeding without a professional and licensed design firm. They know the people in city hall to talk to and navigate red tape.