Requirements for lifts (voltage, compressor, etc.)

[TripleE]

Hello all,

I'm new here and have been reading up on most of the lift threads. I plan on getting a 4 post as it will be used more for storage. I believe I will have the garage door clearance worked out as I will have the high lift tracks installed and the ceilings are ~11'. Along with choosing a quality lift, I am also concerned with the other requirements that come with installing lifts.

They seem to be 220V operated with some companies having asterisks on the voltage rating and noting that they can change the voltage operation. I would like to stay with 110V for convenience, but would I have to install a separate circuit anyways? If so, I'd rather just run a 220V outlet. Problem is, my panel is FULL - something that can be worked around, but still.

Also, it seems I'm finding that they are air operated? Meaning you will need a compressor to run certain functions? I would rather not have to use one, but will if it is a must.

Thanks for your replies.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The air is to operate the lock retract cylinders. If the lift is up, you raise it slightly off the locks, apply air to retract the locks. and then lower it. Only a small volume of air is required. Go with the 240V circuit and you will be better off. Some of the lifts marketed with the 120V motors go slower than if they had the 240V.

Charles

 

[JohnZ]

Very few residential 4-post lifts require air. Mine runs on 120V, and works just fine. 220V was an option, but there's only a few seconds difference in lift cycle time between the two.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I've heard of home lifts that require compressed air but I haven't seen one in person. I have a Stinger brand lift in my garage that runs fine on 120vac, it's just plugged into an outlet.

There shouldn't be any difference in how fast they run based on voltage - going with 220vac just cuts the current in half. The power will be the same: voltage x current = watts.

 

[JD in DFW]

I've heard of home lifts that require compressed air but I haven't seen one in person. I have a Stinger brand lift in my garage that runs fine on 120vac, it's just plugged into an outlet.

There shouldn't be any difference in how fast they run based on voltage - going with 220vac just cuts the current in half. The power will be the same: voltage x current = watts.

Actually a 220v residential 4-post will have a faster rise then a 115Vpower nit. Rotary sells a Residential lift that will rise up considerably faster then it's 115V power unit will. Roraty's reputation is above and beyond any other lift manufacture in the world...plus they are 100% made in America. The Direct Lift is also a good choice with it's new lock design and is now produced by Rotary...but that one is made in asia. Both good lifts.
Good luck on your lift search...please shoot me an e-mail if I can answer any questions for ya. I have been in the equipment business for a while and have seen just about every brand their is in a working shop.

 

[Stuart in MN]

Actually a 220v residential 4-post will have a faster rise then a 115Vpower nit. Rotary sells a Residential lift that will rise up considerably faster then it's 115V power unit will.

For a regular ac electric motor of a given horsepower, the voltage won't change its power or make it spin faster. If a lift is equipped with a dual voltage motor, so you can hook it up as either 115vac or 230vac, it will still have the same horsepower rating and turn the same rpm either way.

However, I looked at the Rotary website, and indeed they say their residential unit is much faster when powered at 220vac. The electrical information on their website doesn't give motor horsepower, but it appears they use a bigger motor for 220vac lifts: their 115vac lift requires a 15 amp circuit while their 220vac lift requires a 20 amp circuit. That would indicate their 220vac lift must have a bigger hydraulic pump that requires a bigger motor, which would explain why the lift goes up faster.

I looked at the Eagle lift website, and they show the same lifting speed for either voltage so they must use the same hp for either voltage. I also looked at the ACLift website, and they must do the same deal as Rotary - they supply a 1hp motor if you want 115vac and a 2hp motor if you want 220vac.

 

[TripleE]

Thanks for all the replies. I am looking to find a 120V unit, since speed is really no issue for me, that doesn't require a compressor (I kept reading about the safety locks being operated by air...). As my search continues, it looks like there are plenty of lifts that can be used "manually" and on 120V. I too am looking for the all made in USA and also the certification. Thanks again for the input.

 

[JDMopar]

I just bought a SR-7H from Superlifts recently. It's 100% made in the USA (Missouri),and does not need air to operate anything unless you buy an air over hydraulic bridge jack. I got a 120 volt power unit with mine. Mine's for hobby use,so I don't give a fat rats *** how fast it goes up....lol. I just picked mine up at the loading dock a few weeks ago,and don't have it put together yet. I checked around a lot before I bought mine,and operated one identical to mine,a Backyard Buddy,and a Bend Pak. The Bend Pak got eliminated right off because of the air lock deal and for the way the lock tab just dangles inside the post. The Backyard Buddy was nice,but being an outside slide lift...it will eventually wear the powder coating off the sides of the posts and look bad. Superlifts has an outside slide lift that is as nice or nicer than the Backyard Buddy,and is less $$$,but I liked the SR-7H better because it's a good,safe lift and is made in America. http://superlifts.com/

 

[TripleE]

The Backyard Buddy was nice,but being an outside slide lift...it will eventually wear the powder coating off the sides of the posts and look bad.

Good thing to point out, I never would have thought there were differences like that in operation; thank you.