requirements for mini split

[BoCRon]

So I'm now researching the mini split. Assuming I get the mini split the ceiling mount electric heater I bought for the garage will get installed in the basement shop for supplemental heat.
I'm a bit confused about the electrical requirements needed for a mini split. I've seen all sorts of numbers and honestly have no idea which is the way to go.
Some say 115v, some 208v, or 220v.........
Also, where the unit actually needs the power is not clear to me. Does the power need to be outside where the condenser is located or inside near the air handler?
So if I go with 115v (which is standard I'm guessing) then the unit will cost more to run,right?
Since the garage is on a slab, it would be pain to run new lines of any sort up to the garage, so if I use what's already there it would be easier for me.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Annette

 

[BoostAddiction]

So I'm now researching the mini split. Assuming I get the mini split the ceiling mount electric heater I bought for the garage will get installed in the basement shop for supplemental heat.
I'm a bit confused about the electrical requirements needed for a mini split. I've seen all sorts of numbers and honestly have no idea which is the way to go.
Some say 115v, some 208v, or 220v.........
Also, where the unit actually needs the power is not clear to me. Does the power need to be outside where the condenser is located or inside near the air handler?
So if I go with 115v (which is standard I'm guessing) then the unit will cost more to run,right?
Since the garage is on a slab, it would be pain to run new lines of any sort up to the garage, so if I use what's already there it would be easier for me.
Any insight would be greatly appreciated!
Annette

Both units need to have power. Mine needed 115 to the indoor unit and (I think) 220 to the external unit. If you have an exploded view of the unit you are looking at, just look to see if there is a power line (not a control wire) from one unit to the other. My guess is you won't find one, which implies separate wiring is needed to both units.

I would expect that some of the smaller external units might not need 220 if they are small enough.

Of course, the sellers of the units should know this stuff off the tops of their heads- why not ask them?

Good luck and show pics of the install when it's done!

-Will

 

[Kinger]

Boost is correct. You will need power to both units and a control wire running between them. You will also need a drain line off of the indoor unit for coil condensate.

What tonnage unit are you looking at? Do you know what the insulation value is in your walls?

If you do, you can do a quick heatloss calc to see what size you need.

Mini-splits are nice, but do not always come with heat in them. Not sure where you are located, but they make mini-splits as heat pumps as well. This would give you heat and A/C. Heat pumps do not work so great in northern climates sometiimes though, due to cold winters.

 

[BoCRon]

All of my research has been online since I can't seem to find anyone in my area that has experience with mini splits, grrrr.
Very frustrating to say the least, and eventually they will be more commonplace around here, but until then I'm dealing with dead silence when I call any HVAC folks and ask them about mini splits.
Annette

 

[BoCRon]

My garage is 470sf and the adjoining room is 94sf. The adjoining room will hopefully get most of it's heat/cooling from the house since the door between will probably remain open most of the time, while the door between the side room and the garage should stay closed as a rule. I'm hoping to mount the unit in the garage side above the door between the 2 rooms and be able to leave the door open if that side room needs a bit of extra heat/cooling.
I can't decide if a 12000 or 18000 BTU unit is what I need. I've been told that 18000 BTU is oversized and that makes for problems removing moisture when cooling. Conversely, I've been told that 12000 BTU unit may be too small. I am planning on getting a unit with the heat pump plus the additional heat strip for back up on really cold nights. (We do get below 20 on occassion, and when we do it's usually for a few days in a row).
Annette

 

[hitek]

All of my research has been online since I can't seem to find anyone in my area that has experience with mini splits, grrrr.
Very frustrating to say the least, and eventually they will be more commonplace around here, but until then I'm dealing with dead silence when I call any HVAC folks and ask them about mini splits.
Annette

I don't have the number handy but call David at Exact Comfort in Atlanta...seems to know his stuff.
www.exactcomfort.com

 

[JohnZ]

I have a Mitsubishi 42,000-BTU A/C-only ductless mini-split in my 44' x 58' x 12' insulated garage (didn't need the heat - already have that), very happy with it. Outside compressor/condenser needs 220V, indoor air handler needs 120V for the blower and vane actuator servos. Control wiring, condensate drain, and refrigerant lines require only a 3" hole in the wall. Details at:

http://www.villagephotos.com/pubbrowse.asp?folder_id=1411059

 

[Kinger]

BoCron wrote:
My garage is 470sf and the adjoining room is 94sf. The adjoining room will hopefully get most of it's heat/cooling from the house since the door between will probably remain open most of the time, while the door between the side room and the garage should stay closed as a rule. I'm hoping to mount the unit in the garage side above the door between the 2 rooms and be able to leave the door open if that side room needs a bit of extra heat/cooling.
I can't decide if a 12000 or 18000 BTU unit is what I need. I've been told that 18000 BTU is oversized and that makes for problems removing moisture when cooling. Conversely, I've been told that 12000 BTU unit may be too small. I am planning on getting a unit with the heat pump plus the additional heat strip for back up on really cold nights. (We do get below 20 on occassion, and when we do it's usually for a few days in a row).
Annette

Is your ceiling insulated in your garage? What R-value insulation did you use in your walls?

In a commercial cooling application around here (WI), we can get away with 350-400 sf per ton of cooling (1 ton = 12,000 btuh). Georgia stays a little warmer in the summer.

A 12,000 btuh unit may be enough. It really comes down to how well insulated you are.

 

[BoCRon]

The entire house was built with 2x6 framing, so I think the R-value of the walls is R19 and the ceiling is probably R19 or R14.
I'm guessing an 18000 BTU is the way to go since the big doors will be getting opened a few times a day. The doors will be shut right away, but still, that's alot of air to let in/out.
Annette