Requirements for post mounted outlet in the yard?

[Innovate1]

Putting a garage about 220 ft from the house and need temp power for the builders. Putting a temp pole would be fairly easy - the location is midway between house and garage and the power company has pretty simple requirements for a temp pole (one of the things the rep I talked to mentioned was I should make it sturdy enough so it doesn't fall over! I think I can do that.) I thought about running cords from the house but it some distance. If they trip a breaker and no one is home that could also be an issue. Wife mentioned that having an outlet midway would be good if it wasn't too much trouble. Putting a post off the main run wouldn't be too bad I suppose but I remembered I ran a conduit to a post when doing a plumbing run that is still empty. What are the requirements for an outlet on a post in the yard? Min height? GFI obviously and an in use cover.

If I pull 2 hots, neutral, and ground can I run two independent circuits so if one trips the other is still on? I could put in a dual box with two GFI outlets.

Seems workable but just may be overlooking some code detail.

#12 wire will be about $100 so about the same as a temp pole but I will still be able to use it later. I could put a sub panel on the pole but then need a ground rod I think. And unless I upsize the wire and feeding breaker quite a bit I could still end up with a tripped breaker in the house.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

If you're planning on running the power out there for a construction crew to use, I would definitely use something larger than #12 for a 220 foot run.

We had only a small compressor (5 gallon) running at the end of 256 feet of #10 and nearly burnt out the compressor during to voltage drop. Granted, we should have used a gas compressor, but that's a separate issue.

Last thing you'd want is to be replacing equipment that gets burnt up due to under-voltage.

Just my 2 cents.

What size is the conduit you ran?

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[walta]

If I pull 2 hots, neutral, and ground can I run two independent circuits so if one trips the other is still on?

One neutral and the breakers must be tie together or 2 neutral and you can have separate breakers but no 240 volt loads.

If the power company puts in a temp service mine was billed as a commercial account.


Walta

 

[AntonLargiader]

If I pull 2 hots, neutral, and ground can I run two independent circuits so if one trips the other is still on?

Yes. The breakers should be handle-tied but they don't need to be common trip.

 

[walta]

Yes. The breakers should be handle-tied but they don't need to be common trip.

Not trying to be a smart aleck. Do they make such a breakers to fit most panels?

If they do one would need to be very careful when ordering.

Walta

 

[ard]

Criminy

I’d put the panel in the structure. Throw in a breaker, mount a quad outlet under it. Put it on two pieces of unistrut if there are no walls yet. Framer around it

Done that for two homes, a barn and a shop. COnduit and two pieces of unistrut sticking out of a slab or wall.

I mean you are running wire and a service out there... you could even use the conductors you will need for the service and wire up a receptacle or to on the end as it comes up into the structure- there are a ton of ways to do it. Toss a 20A breaker at the main panel, done.

Seems silly to spend a penny on a temp power that isn’t really needed. IMO

 

[tfi racing]

Get a new builder if they can't put up a garage on their own generator to air up a compressor and a saw or two.

 

[mike93lx]

At 220', I would use a generator if power isn't necessary long term. If it is, I would run a piece of mobile home feeder and setup a sub panel. The wire is $1/ft (2-2-4-6) and you'll have plenty of power (guessing 60a without doing the voltage drop Calc)

 

[jim111]

Criminy

I’d put the panel in the structure. Throw in a breaker, mount a quad outlet under it. Put it on two pieces of unistrut if there are no walls yet. Framer around it

Done that for two homes, a barn and a shop. COnduit and two pieces of unistrut sticking out of a slab or wall.

I mean you are running wire and a service out there... you could even use the conductors you will need for the service and wire up a receptacle or to on the end as it comes up into the structure- there are a ton of ways to do it. Toss a 20A breaker at the main panel, done.

Seems silly to spend a penny on a temp power that isn’t really needed. IMO

There you go, unless you're not going to wire the building at all

 

[AntonLargiader]

Not trying to be a smart aleck. Do they make such a breakers to fit most panels?

Some do; don't know about all. I was looking through the Schneider catalog for this very reason a few months ago and double breakers were clearly identified as common trip or independent trip. I don't remember if this was Homeline or QO.

My point is that AFAIK common trip isn't required for that scenario, so the O.P. can have the independent circuits he asked about with the MWBC he described.

 

[Innovate1]

Looks like I could just use two standard breakers and this:
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/circuit-protection-power-distribution/circuit-breaker-load-center-accessories/square-d-trade-homeline-trade-residential-circuit-breaker-handle-tie/hom1htcp/p-1444444033332-c-6434.htm

Even stocked at the local stores.

I could put in the panel early although I don't have the trenches dug yet and the ground is a sloppy, cold mess now. Just ran the conduits out of the foundation and planned to finish up the run later - maybe spring.

On the generator comment - was waiting to see if the contractor expected power. For low power stuff a couple long heavy duty extension cords could work and a generator or gas powered compressor for larger stuff.

 

[ard]

Lol.... Builders always “expect” power...when a homeowner asks. . Absolutely rather not run their generator for days on end.

Could lay your conduit on the ground too. Its all just temp, I don’t worry about code at all. Turn the breaker off at the end of each work day.

Also, I do all my trenching and digging at once, early. Set conduits, piping, drainage...footings...then forms...then backfill and bury..then build. So pipes come up inside the new building. Too late for OP, but just FWIW.

 

[mike93lx]

220' is going to require some serious cords and then what do you do with them afterwards?

 

[Innovate1]

Lol.... Builders always “expect” power...when a homeowner asks. . Absolutely rather not run their generator for days on end.

Could lay your conduit on the ground too. Its all just temp, I don’t worry about code at all. Turn the breaker off at the end of each work day.

Also, I do all my trenching and digging at once, early. Set conduits, piping, drainage...footings...then forms...then backfill and bury..then build. So pipes come up inside the new building. Too late for OP, but just FWIW.

Not too late. I already ran the conduits inside and out through the foundation:

I could put in the panel early although I don't have the trenches dug yet and the ground is a sloppy, cold mess now. Just ran the conduits out of the foundation and planned to finish up the run later - maybe spring.

But I haven't run the rest of the trench to the house. Bad weather was coming and wanted to get the inside stuff done so other things could continue.

 

[larry4406]

I would tell the builder/framer to provide his own power...

 

[u2slow]

Get a new builder if they can't put up a garage on their own generator to air up a compressor and a saw or two.

I would tell the builder/framer to provide his own power...

Ummm... that kind of attitude doesn't help the cost of your job one bit.

I happily ran power for my guys. (Granted it was temporary - a MWBC in smurf tube 150' across the back lawn.) There wasn't a peep about power the rest of the job. Last thing I need is to be paying for a crew to stand around on my nickel.

 

[tpothen]

Ummm... that kind of attitude doesn't help the cost of your job one bit.

I happily ran power for my guys. (Granted it was temporary - a MWBC in smurf tube 150' across the back lawn.) There wasn't a peep about power the rest of the job. Last thing I need is to be paying for a crew to stand around on my nickel.

If the builder didn't put an electricity requirement in the bid or talk about it up front then they would have the generator usage in the quote.

I'm having a patio door installed as I type this and the installer brought a generator, I told him he could just plugin to any outlet in the house.

 

[u2slow]

If the builder didn't put an electricity requirement in the bid or talk about it up front then they would have the generator usage in the quote.

Lol! Different building climate on an island. Can't get a tight bid on anything. The only 'grease' is to try and keep the contractor happy.

 

[sberry]

I would change my schedule and take a day to run it in. Sloppy or not if it was humanly possible get it hooked as fast as I could so I could use it as much as I could. Just did a big nice place where power was the last thing, it would have saved lots of work, even cost. . Put a bucket over it. 2 gfci on the bottom of a panel.

 

[sberry]

We wanna use 2 2 2 4 for long runs. Want a size larger ground. 2 is good for 50 or 60 at that distance.

 

[brewchief]

Every framing crew I've seen in recent years used a gas compressor, if they are putting fuel in the compressor then they can fuel up their generator at the same time.

Unless it's a real complex garage it should only be a couple days to frame it, after the roof was on I would try to get the permanent power run as soon as possible, just getting the panel set and powered up with a plug directly below it would plenty good.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[larry4406]

If your bid requires you to provide power, then instead of spending $ to Mickey Mouse a temp plug, buy a small generator that you keep for use around the house and let them use it?

I can’t believe a framing crew today doesn’t have a generator in today’s age. Hand saws, brace and bit and wooden pegs in lieu of nails?

 

[u2slow]

Unless it's a real complex garage it should only be a couple days to frame it, after the roof was on I would try to get the permanent power run as soon as possible, just getting the panel set and powered up with a plug directly below it would plenty good.

If your bid requires you to provide power, then instead of spending $ to Mickey Mouse a temp plug, buy a small generator that you keep for use around the house and let them use it?

I can’t believe a framing crew today doesn’t have a generator in today’s age.

I'd not want a contractor to blow up my generator out of neglect or hard use. Good luck arguing that one out. If he blows up his, I know I'm paying for it in the job somehow. Was easy for me to run temp power out of spare supplies I already had on hand. It continued to be adequate for a long time after lockup.

It made no sense to me to divert critical funds during construction into electrical - which I wouldn't be able to finish to an inspector's satisfaction for years.

 

[Innovate1]

I suppose I could just run the xhhw wire across the ground (could slip it in the conduit for most of the run), mount my interior panel on a pole temporarily and throw a plastic garbage can over if for rain protection. Or get a cheap outside panel so I don't need to worry about weather. Turn it off when they aren't working. The power company said for the temp power they would just run the individual conductors in the side of the ground transformer which would leave them exposed but for a much shorter distance. Was planning to measure the distance and order the wire after the conduit and panel were in place but I can measure and add a little now.

 

[Innovate1]

This also puts the power a lot closer to the building. The temp pole would be at the transformer which is about 100 feet from the garage. Hadn't considered laying the wire on the ground but from the comments it is sometimes done temporarily.

 

[Innovate1]

Ended up getting a cheap outdoor panel and setting it on a post beside the building with a ground rod. Then ran conduit on the ground with a few stakes to keep it from moving around. I can reuse the conduit and wire. Seemed like an easy/cheap way to go and it's just temporary.

 

[nadogail]

Get a new builder if they can't put up a garage on their own generator to air up a compressor and a saw or two.

What he said.
IMHO, A Harbor Freight generator would not only economically solve this problem but unforeseen problems to come.