Residential code: tap into condensate line?

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Can I add a Wye into our central AC condensate line or do I need to add a second line? Existing drip line for house central AC is dwv pvc, I believe 3/4. Just want to add a drain to the back of the dehumidifier tank. Thanks.

 

[rlitman]

I've seen many condensate drains combined. I don't see a problem with the practice.

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

I've seen many condensate drains combined. I don't see a problem with the practice.

I'm not 100% on condensate drains. Do I have to do the whole washing machine thing (p-trap with raised pipe above grade/slab?

Thank you.

 

[MoonRise]

Easiest is to run separate lines.

Tapping two condensate lines together into a common drain line is possible, but you have to make sure that each line is sized properly (3/4" pipe minimum up to 20 ton capacity), sloped properly (1/8" per ft minimum slope, although 1/4" per ft considered 'better'

AND

you have to have each drain line have it's own trap before they join at the wye.

btw, the overflow pan drain line has to be SEPARATE on the HVAC unit. And that drain line has to be located such that the user can see/tell if drainage is occurring there so that they can fix the clog in the main drain line.

And watch out if the drain lines run to the main house DWV system. Have to make SURE that venting and traps are 100% good in that case so that sewer gas doesn't get back into the house via the condensate drain line(s).

example:

https://inspectapedia.com/aircond/1633s.jpg

 

[anythingyoucanimagine]

Thanks MoonRise. I had heard both: "yeah it's no big deal" and "that's a major hack f-up don't ever do it".

I want to murder the guy who installed the air in this house. Was the brother in law two owners ago. Everything is wrong including no permit and bad electric. The flex ducts, return placement, length of run between compressor and AH, everything is just wrong/bad. I have a single plastic 3/4 sch40 coming from AH, across garage then down & out. Slopes are fine, I was under the impression that you cannot add onto the drip drain for AH ever.

Our drip pan has auto float alarm/shutoff but if anything ever happens, drip pan doesn't have a drain that goes out so kitchen will be F'd. Yes drip off evap in AH has a clear trap so I can see how much of a lazy F I am for never cleaning it.

I'm being lazy. I just did Hardie board siding last summer and didn't plumb in a separate drip drain for garage AC because we won't be here forever. Was just thinking I could put a Wye into AH drip pipe and cheat. I have a couple open permits on the house and once our new home is built her dad is going to move here so I'll be the idiot fixing my mistakes. I want it done (reaonably) correct and to code.

It's not the end of the world to cut another hole but much easier to glue a Wye into existing plumbing.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Our HVAC condensate drips into a drain in the floor of the basement. Been set up that way for 30 years. Are you just wanting to combine two sources of condensate that will day light outside?

If that’s the case, why on earth would he need to drill a second hole in the house to have another source of water, that has nothing to do with the DWV system, drain outside?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Easiest is to run separate lines.

Tapping two condensate lines together into a common drain line is possible, but you have to make sure that each line is sized properly (3/4" pipe minimum up to 20 ton capacity), sloped properly (1/8" per ft minimum slope, although 1/4" per ft considered 'better'

AND

you have to have each drain line have it's own trap before they join at the wye.

btw, the overflow pan drain line has to be SEPARATE on the HVAC unit. And that drain line has to be located such that the user can see/tell if drainage is occurring there so that they can fix the clog in the main drain line.

And watch out if the drain lines run to the main house DWV system. Have to make SURE that venting and traps are 100% good in that case so that sewer gas doesn't get back into the house via the condensate drain line(s).

example:

https://inspectapedia.com/aircond/1633s.jpg

I'll add that condensate traps need to have an air break if they drain into a waste line.

Tommy

 

[JazzBlueRT]

When they build our house, they tied the Hybrid water heater condensate line into the AC line. Having 2 - 3/4" lines feed into 1 3/4" line seems to cause the hybrid water heater to constantly error code for overflow and shutoff. There is no blockage and the lines and cleaned monthly. During the hot humid summer in Florida, I cannot use the hybrid water heater in hybrid mode.

I am not sure what the code says about his, it is not clear. FL code appears to say that the AC should have a minimum of 1/2 pipe inch and the installation manual says that the hybrid water heater should have 1/2 pipe. It would seem to me that the pipe after the union should be at least 1 inch to handle expected max flow.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

When they build our house, they tied the Hybrid water heater condensate line into the AC line. Having 2 - 3/4" lines feed into 1 3/4" line seems to cause the hybrid water heater to constantly error code for overflow and shutoff. There is no blockage and the lines and cleaned monthly. During the hot humid summer in Florida, I cannot use the hybrid water heater in hybrid mode.

I am not sure what the code says about his, it is not clear. FL code appears to say that the AC should have a minimum of 1/2 pipe inch and the installation manual says that the hybrid water heater should have 1/2 pipe. It would seem to me that the pipe after the union should be at least 1 inch to handle expected max flow.

Code is 3/4" minimum nationwide. The water heater has to have a condensate neutralizer, too...


Tommy

 

[mpire]

A condensate pump is cheap and easy to install. I would consider one of those just so you don't have to mess with the existing setup.

 

[mpire]

When they build our house, they tied the Hybrid water heater condensate line into the AC line. Having 2 - 3/4" lines feed into 1 3/4" line seems to cause the hybrid water heater to constantly error code for overflow and shutoff. There is no blockage and the lines and cleaned monthly. During the hot humid summer in Florida, I cannot use the hybrid water heater in hybrid mode.

The code may let you get away with 1/2 pipe, but with all the gunk we get in the lines I wouldn't go any smaller than 3/4" line. I also cheat and use electric conduit schedule 60 elbows because then I can snake the line really easy with 1/4 inch icemaker line that does just the trick. Its all PVC so it glue's together fine.

Also, because I have so many issues with condensate lines, I also have begun putting in little giant condensate pumps and then I can get a line of 25 foot hdpe line to connect and run the stuff to the eaves to dump outside or to one of the attic vent lines for the shower/laundry.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frankli...-Valve-and-Safety-Switch-VCMA-20ULS/203566244

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...-D-x-25-ft-Polyethylene-Tube-301762/207144264

https://www.homedepot.com/p/UDP-3-8...Tubing-with-Dispenser-Box-T16004003/304185209

I have done this 4 times, and honestly, this is the least amount of work by far. Pop a quick hole in the eave, run the line up and over to the AC closet, then a couple zip ties to get the right bends and you're done.

You can always clean it up when its cool in the attic around January.

 

[dcg9381]

FYI - I have 2 x 2-ton (24k) Ductless units that both run to a standard 3/4 PVC line. At full tilt and high humidity, I get a slightly uninterrupted light "pour" of water out of that line.

 

[MoonRise]

Like I (and Tommy) both already said, Code requirement for a condensate drain/drip line is 3/4" pipe MINIMUM.

Both for flow in a gravity system AND for minimizing that gravity system from instantly clogging with gunk (mold, algae, slime, small critters, bigger critters, etc, etc) and to allow one to run a snake through it to clean it of the mold/algae/slime/critters.