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Above 1200 Sq/FT Restart

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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Honch

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Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
Looks like there may be some gaps/chinks between sleepers. Are you not worried about lead finding its way through one of these into the field next door?
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Yeah, there are gaps, used crossties are not really like dimensional lumber, they are different thicknesses, widths and lengths. We actually did quite a bit of work trying to fit different ties together which is no small task when they weigh about 200lbs each. The gaps you see are less than 1/4" over 8" of thickness, and generally where the rail hammered against the tie. The closest thing behind the range is the pole barn 1/4 mile and off to the right. Directly behind it there is nothing except for soybeans for 1.5 miles. So short of the Kennedy bullet I am not losing sleep.

I may inject some PR-1422 B 1/2 aircraft fuel tank sealant into the gaps, I have been using it to seal the ends and any splits in the ties to keep them from deteriorating any further. I have access to large quantities of expired shelf life, and it would be like trying to shoot through an 8" thick piece of rubber. The nice part is the B 1/2 is brown and blends in with the ties very well.
 
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Honch

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Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
In April of 2023 we had a bad storm come through our area and during that storm one of my pool cover tracks was ripped loose. This caused the pump on the cover to fall into the pool and drain it.
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By the time we realized what had happened basically the following day, the damage had been done. The ground water pushed up against the bottom of the pool and it split the fiberglass from one end to the other. One of the worst things you can do to a fiberglass pool is drain it especially without shoring or proper ground water control.
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We contacted our insurance company, and they assured me it would be covered. A month later a roaming adjustor came and looked at the pool, she said she had never seen anything like that before and asked us to get quotes for fixing it. After we got quotes for replacing the pool, anywhere from 120-140k the insurance company came back and said they had found a company that would repair it. I had seen the same company online, API (Affordable Pools Inc) and was fine with going that route. A few weeks later the insurance company came back and said they would not cover any of the costs for replacement or repair and the only thing they would pay for is repairing the concrete that was damaged and the cover. I won't go into any details as to why they decided not to cover the repair costs because I am suing them for the repair costs.

I was still fine with the pool being repair instead of replaced and because the legal side of it would likely take a long time, we contacted API and scheduled the repairs. Because of their backlog of work the soonest they would be able to repair the pool was the end of August 2023. I decided instead of fixing it then immediately closing it for the winter we would just wait till the spring of 2024. Spring was very wet for us and they were still backlogged so the repair was pushed to last week.

Day one, the first thing they did was cut out the damaged areas and widen them slightly. They lifted the bottom up and inspected the base material basically pea gravel, smoothed and filled as necessary and then filled in the areas with a product they called trowelable basically dyed resin with filler similar to micro ballons.
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Day two they laid the first of three layers of fiberglass mat that each layer was around 1/4" thick, and each layer getting wider.
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Day three after they had three layers in place they sanded everything smooth, and then scuff sanded the entire pool.
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Day four they taped of the fixtures and gel coated the entire pool. Because of the heat that day they had about 8 minutes to accomplish the entire pool before the product started cooking off and hardening.
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CONTINUED:
 
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Honch

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Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
Because this was still 1/3 the cost of replacing the pool I decided to try and save some money by filling the pool from my well versus spending over 1k to have city water trucked in. After 16 hours of it filling through my house filters and some RV filters, I added to the hoses I began to regret my decision. The water tested on the low side for both Iron and Copper content, so I am really not sure why it had such a strong brown color. Fortunately, as you see the progression in the following pictures the pool cleared up quickly over a 4-day period.

Sunday:
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Monday:
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Tuesday:
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Wednesday:
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Wednesday we also got the new cover installed:
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Just before they came to do the repairs, I also removed the 20+ year old 120V light and installed a 12VDC light which in my opinion is much safer. I took this picture last night as we were headed back in the house.
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It's nice to have the pool back up and working, It was the thing my wife wanted with us buying the house and I am glad she can use it again.
 
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Honch

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
When the owner of API did his final inspection of the pool he wasn't satisfied with the coverage on the upper edge, a cosmetic issue at most. With only a few minutes to do the trim covering I am surprised it looks as good as it does and there wasn't gel coat all over the white trim and the concrete. He genuinely did not want to "put his name on it" without addressing the issue. We discussed a couple different options, one of which where he volunteered to pay for mosaic tile and all the supplies to install it if I would be willing to do the work. This is the option I chose and since the pool was filled after the repair, we have left it purposely on the low side till we had time to install the tile.

Last weekend we did some prep work around the top of the pool and tonight we started installing the tile. I had a procedure this morning that does not allow me in the pool for the next few days, so I showed the wife unit how to put up the tile, and I'm the tool boy.
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Once we have the upper six inches wrapped in tile, we will grout it with a light grey color (recommended color) and then fill the pool the rest of the way. At its proper level it the water level will cover the bottom one or two rows of tile.

There are a few areas around the lip of the pool that the rocks in the concrete have popped. Anyone that lives in a climate that has freezing/thawing cycles knows what I am talking about. I am considering filling in the craters with an epoxy sanding them smooth and coating the concrete under the pool cover to help protect it from the salt water / condensation that happens under the cover. You can easily tell the difference in the concrete between the cover track and pool. If anyone knows of a product or has experience with something similar, please let me know. Most of what I have seen is "self-leveling" I am looking at epoxies because some of what I need to fill is on a vertical surface, if nothing like that exists, I will cover the areas with aluminum tape and fill them that way.
 
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Honch

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
Last fall I was walking around the house when I noticed one of the soffits on the garage looked a bit strange. After getting out the ladder I realized it was water damaged and rotting. The former owner of the house hired professional painters to do the trim just prior to us moving in. After tearing it apart I found they had missed sealing the poorly fit cedar trim on the front side.

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Unfortunately they sealed everything else very well and so it pooled on the majority of the 16' soffit. Still only expecting this to take me a few hours to fix, the soffit during the build process had been captured by the header of the garage door and the only way it was coming out was to cut it along the entire length. To make it even more fun the soffit was 16' 2" so I had a choice of everything having 3 seams or buying 10" lumber to make one seam. In the end I did the latter and after replacing most everything wooden in the area it took me the better part of two days and a couple hundred dollars of cedar.

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Honch

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Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
Two weeks ago I watched a video review of a push sweeper. The guy reviewing it was using it to keep a 3,000 sqft warehouse clean. The main thing that caught my attention was its ability to pick up fine dust, the dust that causes you to go over the same spot multiple times with a fine bristle broom and smack it on the floor to get the dust out of the bristles. All of this adding to the time and effort to sweeping up the shop or garage. To this point I generally hit the floor with my electric leaf blower once or twice a week, then maybe once a month I'll sweep to get the edges, corners and all the fine dust. My shop will take 30-40 minutes depending on how carried away I get, so I decided to try a push sweeper.

There are quite a few to choose from, ranging from $100.00 to $5k before you get into the units that have water tanks. I chose the Karcher S 6 Twin, mainly because I have had good luck with Karcher products and it was the only "residential" unit I saw that you could buy replacement parts/brushes for.

When it arrived (Amazon Purchase) the box was in pretty rough shape.

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Before opening it I found this black trim piece sticking out the bottom of the box, I wasn't sure what it was for or where it went because the unit was mostly assembled. Later I found this seal inside the dust bin and realized the black trim held it in place along the bottom edge. The problem was the end of the trim piece had clips that were broken off and it wasn't going to hold the seal in place properly.

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The paperwork that came with it had a white warning sheet that detailed if you had a problem, not to return it to the store but call their 800 number which of course was a Mon-Fri help desk. Because this was a Saturday, I went ahead and put it in with one end not secure and pushed the broom one pass about 40' through my shop. In the lower right corner of this picture, you can see the seal sticking up because the trim piece is not connected there. The dust and debris are from that one pass.

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In the upper left corner of this picture you can see all the fine dust on top of the sweeper, this is the side with the bad seal.

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I was able to get ahold of Karchers help desk a week later when I remembered to call. They sent me a parts breakdown and even through the dust bin has at least four separate parts on it, the IPC showed it as one assembly. I sent them the picture of the broken piece and two days later I got an entire new dust bin. I definitely cannot complain about their customer service.

I have swept the grass clippings of the sidewalk, the garage once (1100 sqft) and the shop twice probably around 1500 sqft of area that can be easily swept.

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So far, I am really impressed with how well it gets fine dust off smooth floors, and how quickly I can cover a large area. I think because of that I am likely to "sweep" more often. It does struggle a bit with wet grass and large items. I doubt Ill use it much for grass because I have a backpack blower that is much quicker and just spreads the clippings back over the lawn vs needing to dump them somewhere.

Overall, even though I have only used it a few times to this point I am very happy with how it works. It also folds quickly and can be hung from the handle at the front end or just stood against the wall on its end.

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One other thing to update on is my wife's Cadillac ATS was rearended about two months ago. The insurance company totaled the car and that put us in the situation of needing to get her a car fairly quickly. She really had her heart set on getting a Cadillac AT4 which I was against being its now a last year vehicle along with the AT5 and AT6. I let her test drive one with the condition that she also drove a Lyriq or an Optiq. She has range anxiety with electric vehicles, once I talked her though that, she settled on the Optiq, it wasn't really a hard sell it has so much more power than the AT4 and the features were much better making the AT4 seem very dated.

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Its 350hp all-wheel drive, based on its weight it's about the same level of performance her ATS was. We carpool to work and drive about 40 miles a day, which if my math is correct currently costs about $1.45 a day in electricity. To this point the 110-volt charger that came with the car has been more than adequate to keep it charged. I did purchase a level II charger though to take advantage of my electric companies' rates from 11pm to 5am of just over .05 kWh. I still have mixed feelings as well about it mostly its depreciation, it's very much a technology driven item and could easily depreciate very quickly. So far though we really like it.
 

Jrad235

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Messages
106
Location
Colorado Springs, CO
Damnit @Honch, I didn't NEED to reinvent the broom, but I'll be damned if I didn't order one of those fancy Karchers for my shop! The slightly smaller S4 was on sale so I snagged one to try.
EDIT: And I can now say I am absolutely in love with it, what a game changer for keeping a smooth shop floor clean! I have 3500sqft to do so it's not insignificant.
 
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zimman

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Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
2,038
Location
Mark Twain National Forest
Last weekend it was cold (45°-50°) and I wasted most of Saturday looking for 1/4" pegboard. I would have thought that would be fairly common but apparently it isn't. This weekend it was much warmer and I was able to get the 240 run to my compressor done.

Running 4/10 to a finished, insulated wall fuse box wasn't much fun. I didn't need 10 gauge wire, the compressor is only 14 amps but I have it if I ever upgrade to a real compressor.

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I found a cheap safety disconnect and left enough flex to be able to move the compressor out for maintenance.

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I didn't realize how much I used it until I didn't have it to use. Now I need to decide if I am going to run PEX-AL-PEX or black pipe. I don't currently have plans for a huge run probably just a 35 foot single run to the work benches on the other side of the garage and maybe 2 drains.
That electrical panel looks delicious. LOL
Nice work.
Zim
 
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Honch

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Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
How well do you think it would handle dried dirt/sand on the floor? I would love an easier way to sweep the garage floor in the winter, the vehicles drop a decent amount of sand/salt on the floor of the garage.

It won't work well on that, if a push broom doesn't get it up, this won't. You would need to scrape/kick it loose.
 
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Honch

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Jul 30, 2011
Messages
401
Location
Danville, IN
During the last year my back yard has gotten out of hand, it's more of a botanical garden than a lawn. Part of my plan for getting it back under control was to dethatch it before overseeding. The thought of hand raking an acre had me searching for one I could attach to the three point on the tractor. There are a few really nice, commercial grade rakes available out there, I didn't buy one of those. Even if I were to use it for raking leaves this fall my usage would be twice a year at best. I bought a very cheap Vevor rake, hoping it would last long enough to do the lawn at least once. I was pleasantly surprised it was actually made from decent materials and cheaper than I could have sourced all the parts for to build one.

All the plate material and tines were powder coated or at least that's the claim.

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The hardware is decent quality with both lock washers and nyloc nuts.

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Most importantly it worked very well, and other than about a quarter inch of paint worn off the bottom of the tines still looks new after removing all this from my lawn.

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After I had assembled the rake and was getting ready to attach it to the tractor, I remembered what a pain it was to take the subsoiler off the tractor. I don't use it that often, but I do need the weights on it for ballast, so before I reinstalled it, I decided to make a dolly for it. I had an old dolly that was made of 2X3 square tube that I used for the basis of the dolly. I attached a couple of supports and a safety pin through the side of it so it can't fall off the dolly.

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The subsoiler is now very easy to move around the shop and doesn't require all the weight plates to be removed to get it off the tractor. It only took about 3 minutes to get it hooked up again once I had assembled it on the dolly. I wish I had taken time to make it a couple of years ago.

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Bob Heine

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Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,703
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
@Honch, I have purchased a number of Vevor products and all of them have exceeded my expectations. I don't use them every day and they might not hold up under daily use. I have their air bag jack, belt sander for tubing, crazy bright work light and tiny air inflator.
 
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