Restore Snap-on Tool box badges

[Thru-hika]

Got a couple Snap-on tool box badges that are missing most of the paint and a bit rusted.

Anyone have any experience and tips for restoring tool box badges that need rust removal and repainting? Attached is the type of badge that I would like to restore but mine are rusty and missing most of the paint.

Thanks!

 

[chris fresh]

Check the link in my sig for the snappy box rest.Maybe it will show you the way.

 

[zkling]

O, that is not going to be fun. A fine brush, steady hand and somewhat thick paint will get them done. I wonder how they did them at the factory, stamps?

The 70's and 80's emblems are much easier.

 

[rsanter]

I wonder how they did them at the factory

.

A mask and the paint is sprayed on
The mask is made of brass sheet and can even be formed to a profile depending on the part.

Bob

 

[zkling]

A mask and the paint is sprayed on
The mask is made of brass sheet and can even be formed to a profile depending on the part.

Bob

Interesting, thanks for the info. I wondered how they did that.

 

[Thru-hika]

It would be awesome if the lettering could be digitized and then laser cut a template in metal so the lettering could be spray painted red as Bob said they did at the factory. I may try my hand at using thin but sturdy cardboard.

 

[rsanter]

It would be awesome if the lettering could be digitized and then laser cut a template in metal so the lettering could be spray painted red as Bob said they did at the factory. I may try my hand at using thin but sturdy cardboard.

What you propose is possible
Get quality scans of the badge and there are lasers out there that can cut very thin brass. For the masks the brass can and should be very thin.
In fact didn't a member just post and brag that he got his lazer in his garage and was setting up to to use it?

Research how the graphics on Lionel trains was done. There was an article showing how the mask was made and how it was used. Basically it's just a fancy stencil.

 

[catalytic]

Why not scan them and then acid etch them using a photo resist process? There's a slight learning curve, but it opens up a lot of new capabilities (for instance, an extra plate with your name or shop name on it to be attached under the snap on plate... making more than 1 plate at a time is really no extra work except for the time spent drawing the new logo).

Also, the relieved part on etched plates is easy to paint. You can even paint the whole plate, then sand lightly to take the paint off of the higher areas. A_PMech did this for the Do-All band saw plates a while back, I believe.

 

[Mavawreck]

I'm going to be restoring that same emblem. I was thinking of striping it, gun blueing it, then cleaning off the high spots.

 

[sz0k30]

Feel free to give me a "Dope Slap" if this is too far off the mark, but I read something in the past few days, I think on this forum, about using "Never Dull" to clean badges & jewels.

 

[rparent]

I've restored a few of these badges for some toolboxes that are awaiting restoration. The first step is to clean/strip the old paint and oxidation from the badge. Next I use gloss black lacquer and paint the entire badge and allow to dry. Then I use a foam nail file and gently sand the raised area of the badge. Next is the hard part...paint the logo red with Testors gloss red model paint. I use a tiny brush and trim the bristles to 1/8" long. Apply the red fairly thick and allow it to flow into the logo area. If you brush repeatedly the red paint mixes with the black and looks like hell (ask me how I know). Be patient and use a steady hand. Allow to dry and sand again with the foam nail file. Then carefully sand the entire badge with 800/1200/2000 grit. Apply multiple coats of gloss clear so the exposed steel does not rust. Done.


Ryan

 

[Thru-hika]

Wow, great job Ryan on those badges. Got some really good ideas and leads from which to follow from the GJ. Thank you all for your suggestions.

 

[FJ 432]

I've restored a few of these badges for some toolboxes that are awaiting restoration. The first step is to clean/strip the old paint and oxidation from the badge. Next I use gloss black lacquer and paint the entire badge and allow to dry. Then I use a foam nail file and gently sand the raised area of the badge. Next is the hard part...paint the logo red with Testors gloss red model paint. I use a tiny brush and trim the bristles to 1/8" long. Apply the red fairly thick and allow it to flow into the logo area. If you brush repeatedly the red paint mixes with the black and looks like hell (ask me how I know). Be patient and use a steady hand. Allow to dry and sand again with the foam nail file. Then carefully sand the entire badge with 800/1200/2000 grit. Apply multiple coats of gloss clear so the exposed steel does not rust. Done.


Ryan

Thanks. I will need to do this as well. Thanks for the details.

 

[js289]

those look awesome! great job!